The Magura Problem Thread

[highflyer]

This is my first post on the forum and I only joined trials forum the other day. I can’t help but notice the amount of magura threads on here! Its ridiculous!

So here it is, hopefully one of the last magura threads for a long while- The 'Magura Questions Thread'

Please feel free to post any problems or tips you have with your maguras- Whether it be with your HS33, HS11, Julie or Louise its all magura and should all be answered in this thread.

So... I'll start it off by giving my step-by-step bath bleed tips:

Step 1: Remove your magura HS33/11 from your bike by simply loosening the mounting bolts, cutting all cable ties and taking out the mount bolts.

Step 2: Fill up the bath with water (nearly full) and add a fair amount of anti freeze or rad coolant.

Step 3: Using a 5mm allen key undo the bolt on the calliper, it helps if you completely remove this and also remove the bolt in the lever by using a 3mm allen key (the lever bolt is situated next to the hose fitting).

Step 4: Place all of the brake under the water and set it all flat to the bottom of the bath.

Step 5: Repetitively squeeze the brake lever, I recommend around 200 times for best results.

Step 6: Whilst the brake is still under water put the bolts back in very tight.

Step 7: Dry off the brake, mount it back on the bike.

Step 8: Apologise to your parents for the mess in the tub and ride!

[Callum Trialsin]

best first post ive seen for ages. validation lol not up to me but i would consider beause u didnt just post something pointless just so u can say u have posted on here.

Callum

[harmertrials]

I agree mate, get that lad validated.

[highflyer]

Anyone else got problems or tips? I want to keep this a strictly magura tips and problem thread, no other nonsense.

[Peaky]

Here is my tip:

When adjusting the TPA on maguras one piston will innevitably move whilst the other one will stay retracted, rather than them moving by equal ammounts. The one which which does not retract soo much is also innevitably going to rub against your rim (which is dam annoying). So, my tip to stop your pad rubbing against the rim is this:

Take a cable tie and rap it around the body of the brake cylinder on the side which is retracting all the way back, and position it so that the pad can no longer retract all the way back. This will force the other piston to retract. By adjusting the position of the cable tie you will be able to stop either of the pads from rubbing (assuming your wheel isn't the shape of a pringle!).

Bit of a bodge but it works a treat and saves you having to redo your break set up every time your brake pads get a bit worn. Instead, just move the cable tie accross a bit!

Happy braking people!

[missionmod]

This is my first post on the forum and I only joined trials forum the other day. I can’t help but notice the amount of magura threads on here! Its ridiculous!

So here it is, hopefully one of the last magura threads for a long while- The 'Magura Questions Thread'

Please feel free to post any problems or tips you have with your maguras- Whether it be with your HS33, HS11, Julie or Louise its all magura and should all be answered in this thread.

So... I'll start it off by giving my step-by-step bath bleed tips:

Step 1: Remove your magura HS33/11 from your bike by simply loosening the mounting bolts, cutting all cable ties and taking out the mount bolts.

Step 2: Fill up the bath with water (nearly full) and add a fair amount of anti freeze or rad coolant.

Step 3: Using a 5mm allen key undo the bolt on the calliper, it helps if you completely remove this and also remove the bolt in the lever by using a 3mm allen key (the lever bolt is situated next to the hose fitting).

Step 4: Place all of the brake under the water and set it all flat to the bottom of the bath.

Step 5: Repetitively squeeze the brake lever, I recommend around 200 times for best results.

Step 6: Whilst the brake is still under water put the bolts back in very tight.

Step 7: Dry off the brake, mount it back on the bike.

Step 8: Apologise to your parents for the mess in the tub and ride!

Also a good point is to wind you tpa out all the way down. before you remove the bolts so when once you bleed your brake there is more fluid in the cables and pistons. So when you wind it out to the requird amount you have more fluid so you brake should feel more sharper and have more pressure as its apliled. hope this helped a bit more ? ( sorry for some of the spelling mistakes)

liam

[Simpson]

Step 5: Repetitively squeeze the brake lever, I recommend around 200 times for best results.

Im totally useless at bleeding brakes, no matter how i try to do it! so now i leave them over-night with the lever higher than the cycliners in 2 different buckets of different levels to try to get all the air in the system out overnight.... kinda works better meh... force someone else to do it for me! lol

[Ghetto Rider]

Sorry anyone else not get this, i'm not moaning but:

""This is my first post on the forum and I only joined trials forum the other day. I can’t help but notice the amount of magura threads on here! Its ridiculous!"" - So i'm going to put another thread about mangura's but call it questions??.... lol see what i mean?

It's just another magura thread??

[Token]

Sorry anyone else not get this, i'm not moaning but:

Ha that was a moan!!! Be happy he can spell, punctuate and give advice rather than spout some rubbish and finish it off with 'hope I helped'.

[*PHIL*]

OK then I have a question..

Any way to get maggies to stop squealing so bad? Mine sound like I'm stamping on puppys!!

Not arsed about the rear as I like the pads but the front is just ridiculous. Considering some slightly worse pads but is there any other way to silence them?

PHIL

[gianttrials]

This is my first post on the forum and I only joined trials forum the other day. I can’t help but notice the amount of magura threads on here! Its ridiculous!

So here it is, hopefully one of the last magura threads for a long while- The 'Magura Questions Thread'

Please feel free to post any problems or tips you have with your maguras- Whether it be with your HS33, HS11, Julie or Louise its all magura and should all be answered in this thread.

So... I'll start it off by giving my step-by-step bath bleed tips:

Step 1: Remove your magura HS33/11 from your bike by simply loosening the mounting bolts, cutting all cable ties and taking out the mount bolts.

Step 2: Fill up the bath with water (nearly full) and add a fair amount of anti freeze or rad coolant.

Step 3: Using a 5mm allen key undo the bolt on the calliper, it helps if you completely remove this and also remove the bolt in the lever by using a 3mm allen key (the lever bolt is situated next to the hose fitting).

Step 4: Place all of the brake under the water and set it all flat to the bottom of the bath.

Step 5: Repetitively squeeze the brake lever, I recommend around 200 times for best results.

Step 6: Whilst the brake is still under water put the bolts back in very tight.

Step 7: Dry off the brake, mount it back on the bike.

Step 8: Apologise to your parents for the mess in the tub and ride!

good 1st thread an great advice, am gonna give the bath bleed a go 2nite, as i cant afford to go an get me local shop 2 bleed it 4 me but hopefully this will work a treat an cheap as chips

[JT!]

OK then I have a question..

Any way to get maggies to stop squealing so bad? Mine sound like I'm stamping on puppys!!

Not arsed about the rear as I like the pads but the front is just ridiculous. Considering some slightly worse pads but is there any other way to silence them?

PHIL

Nah, it's the way they are. Unless you want to get some magura brand (blacks or koolstops) pads or a disc.

[gianttrials]

just tried a bath bleed an it seems to have worked

[Simpson]

Basically you dont have any real reason. Grind is a no-no, most aftermarket pads are a no-no as well... cousts are pretty silent you could try a set of em

[mat da man]

Anyone else got problems or tips? I want to keep this a strictly magura tips and problem thread, no other nonsense.

my front maggie mounting bolt sheared off inside my forks.. flush! am i buggerd or you got any idears? chears

[missionmod]

my front maggie mounting bolt sheared off inside my forks.. flush! am i buggerd or you got any idears? chears

You need to get a "easy out " drill a hole thought the bolt. Then screw the easy out in to the hole,make shure it is lubricated and spray wd40 on hole and then once the easy out is tight as possibal,it should start to turn the brooken bolt out of the taping. if that hard to under stand im sorry as that is what my dad told me.

liam

[*PHIL*]

cheers guys, ive put the original magura pads in and they seem quiet for now.. may get noisy when they bed in a bit. nowhere near as powerful but i dont mind too much

[Si-man]

Sorry anyone else not get this, i'm not moaning but:

""This is my first post on the forum and I only joined trials forum the other day. I can't help but notice the amount of magura threads on here! Its ridiculous!"" - So i'm going to put another thread about mangura's but call it questions??.... lol see what i mean?

It's just another magura thread??

exactly, anyone can copy old posts.

sort of a trend with new members

[basher]

Here is my tip:

When adjusting the TPA on maguras one piston will innevitably move whilst the other one will stay retracted, rather than them moving by equal ammounts. The one which which does not retract soo much is also innevitably going to rub against your rim (which is dam annoying). So, my tip to stop your pad rubbing against the rim is this:

Take a cable tie and rap it around the body of the brake cylinder on the side which is retracting all the way back, and position it so that the pad can no longer retract all the way back. This will force the other piston to retract. By adjusting the position of the cable tie you will be able to stop either of the pads from rubbing (assuming your wheel isn't the shape of a pringle!).

Bit of a bodge but it works a treat and saves you having to redo your break set up every time your brake pads get a bit worn. Instead, just move the cable tie accross a bit!

Happy braking people!

My tip is that usually the piston isnt moving right because it has dirt around the piston seal or needs bleeding. That solves a dodgy bodge and having the cable tie could make your pad easily pop off.

[Peaky]

My tip is that usually the piston isnt moving right because it has dirt around the piston seal or needs bleeding. That solves a dodgy bodge and having the cable tie could make your pad easily pop off.

I don't want to have to go too deep with trying to explain why I think my idea is good and why one piston will always move more than the other but in short:

One piston will ALWAYS have more "stiction"/friction in its seal than the other as no two seals will ever be truelly identical. There fore the piston with the least stiction will start to move first. Once stiction is overcome the moving piston shall continue to move before the other pad starts too as its easier to move the already moving pad than to start the other one moving (this relates back to Newtons laws of motion and other boaring physics type stuff). This means that the piston which moves second will not move until the first pad has made contact with the rim. The same is true in reverse when the pistons retract meaning that one piston shall always return before the other and therefore leave one piston hanging around in the middle of no-where and the other retracting all the way home into its cylinder.

This even happens with brand new brakes (mine are two months old and they did it just like my old ones did). Dirt and air in the system will just make the problem worse but are not the cause.

P.S. Feel free to go play with your magura's and prove me wrong!

P.P.S If you do have a set of maguras with which the pads move by equal amounts and at the same time then your one dam lucky person from my experience!

Oh, and if you give this mod a try then make sure you don't position the cable tie in a way that over stresses the pads retaining clip when the lever is released. The cable tie is meant to encourage the other pad to move and not to put the pad under strain resulting in a situation where your pad will "easily pop off" as Andy H has put it.

[Mod Man Leo]

So in a bath bleed, you literally open it up in a bath full of water and pump for about 5 mins (keeping it underwater)?

Seems to easy.

[LiamWood!]

i have a few niggles with the hs33s, it seem every time i turn the TPA adjuster it snaps .

Soi might just buy the new style ones from tarty £80 for the pair or one echo lever hmm which is more value for money???

Liam

[danny_cartledge]

Step 5: Repetitively squeeze the brake lever, I recommend around 200 times for best results.

Instead of squeezing your lever soo many times, if you pull the lever down, put your finger over the hole on the lever and let go of the lever. Then pull the lever back down and put your finger over the hole when you release it. You will see bubbles coming out, when they stop you can screw everything back in and it works

Hope that made sense!!

Danny...

[mat da man]

just buggered up my bleed! another shirt covered in fluid and still isn't done! they r so much work!! still i love trials so... what can i do

[hI-OOPS-CAPS]

well, I think Ive just overtightened the screw that clamps the lever to the bars save the applause. Can anyone tell me if i can replace the lever at all without doing a bleed?