tank_rider Posted May 15, 2007 Report Share Posted May 15, 2007 Well having used (and abused) my middleburns for 4 years riding trials, having to give up trials has led me to think about using them in a second incarnation on my XC bike. However as with all trials cranks they've taken a beating and so look pretty shabby, so I've decided to give them a sanding to get rid of the battered finish and just leave the deeper scratches. I've sanded all the anodising off the arms initially with 400 grit paper then given them a going over with 600 grit, which has got rid of the anodising and the light surface scratches but now i want to get them polished up to a nice mirror finish for maximum pimp value.This leads to my question.....Whats the best way to get them to a nice mirror finish? My current plan is to move up the grit scale, then move onto some sort of rubbing compound?What have you used on aluminium to get really good finishes?CheersAndy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ogre Posted May 15, 2007 Report Share Posted May 15, 2007 drill + polishing thing + brasso Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dave85 Posted May 15, 2007 Report Share Posted May 15, 2007 I tend to use a file to get the worst of the scratches out; if really bad use it like a normal file, then drawfiling (hold the handle of the file in one hand and the end of the file in the other, as you would hold a pair of handlebars, then pull the file towards you). Work your way up to a dead smooth file, make sure any scratches left are fairly smooth (sharp edges cause problems with the final stages). Fine wire wool and brasso or any liquid metal polish, soak the wool and polish away, then clean off with a cloth. Finally a soft cloth and brasso to finish. Always one cloth to put the brasso on and do the majority of the polishing, and one very clean cloth to take it off. Altho metal polish tolerates oil and grease, a wipe over with thinners or meths first helps lots.If you're allergic to files , use different grades of emery cloth, back them up onto a flat bit of wood so it doesnt curve and take the sharp machined edges (in this case the middleburn engraving) off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zoo Posted May 15, 2007 Report Share Posted May 15, 2007 Use wire wool once they are smooth,for ages then polish them with brasso. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Walleee Posted May 15, 2007 Report Share Posted May 15, 2007 I tend to use a file to get the worst of the scratches out; if really bad use it like a normal file, then drawfiling (hold the handle of the file in one hand and the end of the file in the other, as you would hold a pair of handlebars, then pull the file towards you). Work your way up to a dead smooth file, make sure any scratches left are fairly smooth (sharp edges cause problems with the final stages). Fine wire wool and brasso or any liquid metal polish, soak the wool and polish away, then clean off with a cloth. Finally a soft cloth and brasso to finish. Always one cloth to put the brasso on and do the majority of the polishing, and one very clean cloth to take it off. Altho metal polish tolerates oil and grease, a wipe over with thinners or meths first helps lots.If you're allergic to files , use different grades of emery cloth, back them up onto a flat bit of wood so it doesnt curve and take the sharp machined edges (in this case the middleburn engraving) off.That's the best advice ever on this forum. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Booth Posted May 15, 2007 Report Share Posted May 15, 2007 Autosol to polish them, should work awsome Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fixed Pants™ Posted May 15, 2007 Report Share Posted May 15, 2007 (edited) drill + polishing thing + brassoWord.With a drill you can get some serious buffing going on. Edited May 15, 2007 by Fat Pants Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ash-Kennard Posted May 15, 2007 Report Share Posted May 15, 2007 talk the the frenchman, peirre, he know how to polish stuff lmao, his bike is soo sexy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Christophe' Posted May 15, 2007 Report Share Posted May 15, 2007 elbow grease, if u know anyone with any. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Si-man Posted May 15, 2007 Report Share Posted May 15, 2007 I tend to use a file to get the worst of the scratches out; if really bad use it like a normal file, then drawfiling (hold the handle of the file in one hand and the end of the file in the other, as you would hold a pair of handlebars, then pull the file towards you). Work your way up to a dead smooth file, make sure any scratches left are fairly smooth (sharp edges cause problems with the final stages). Fine wire wool and brasso or any liquid metal polish, soak the wool and polish away, then clean off with a cloth. Finally a soft cloth and brasso to finish. Always one cloth to put the brasso on and do the majority of the polishing, and one very clean cloth to take it off. Altho metal polish tolerates oil and grease, a wipe over with thinners or meths first helps lots.If you're allergic to files , use different grades of emery cloth, back them up onto a flat bit of wood so it doesnt curve and take the sharp machined edges (in this case the middleburn engraving) off.Listen to this fella, he knows what hes on about.I have found that scotchbrite pads are bloody good aswell for getting rid of the tinyest surface scratches, takes off a thou of an inch at a time or something when used. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Token Posted May 15, 2007 Report Share Posted May 15, 2007 Word.Word?! Your not black fatty. Infact your more milk coloured. Anyway, I know this may sound abit stupid but won't filing void warranty? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt_Tupman Posted May 15, 2007 Report Share Posted May 15, 2007 Anyway, I know this may sound abit stupid but won't filing void warranty?So does polishing if you want to get technical.I would continue using P800 and then P1200 before moving onto a liquid abrasive. I've always found Autosol the best for this sort of thing.If you clean with alloy wheel cleaner afterwards it will come out gleaming. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
future orange 660 Posted May 16, 2007 Report Share Posted May 16, 2007 some good advice already. its amazing how wire wool can actually work too, just buy a couple of packs of different grades for a couple of quid. also if you have access to a buffing wheel then this would be ideal once actually polishing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pashley26 Posted May 16, 2007 Report Share Posted May 16, 2007 I would deffinatly go ALL OUT with the file/emerycloth, if you think you'll get bored and stop half way through (as we all do ) get a polishing bit for a drill and an ali cutting compound and just blitz it !!!!!! putting on "max wax" or some other type of car paint protector will help it last long.T CUT ! That works AMAZINGLY on everything shiny ! Jarrod Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tank_rider Posted May 16, 2007 Author Report Share Posted May 16, 2007 Cheers for all the advice guys.I've gone straight from 600 grit down to brasso on a cloth and there looking nice and shiny at the moment. Am going to get some wire wool and do them with that then some more brasso and i think the first one will be done!!The one thats been brasso'd looks fantastic already so will be pimping once all finished!Will get some pics in a bit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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