20" 2.4" Wheel In A T-pro Frame?

[Captain Scarlet]

Okay, I'm considering changing my frame from an Onza T-Vee to a T-Pro, as it allows me to have 4 bolt mounts rather than 2 bolt mounts, and eventually when I buy a fatter back wheel the frame will be able to support it.

But I'm having some doubts about my current rear wheel (Basically a front wheel).

Are 19" wheels, that 1" smaller than my current wheel?, as I have been told that a 19" wheel is called so it can be defined as a wider wheel.

Basically I want to keep all the components from my T-Vee (All standard parts apart from the brakes as I now has Hs33's), and put them onto a T-Pro frame, so would anyone be able to tell me what I might have complications with? Would my current rear wheel be able fit in the frame properly, and would I be able to have my brakes contact the rim squarely and evenly.

Thanks,

Tom

[Lawnmowerman]

You'll need to buy either a new rear wheel or a new rim. Will need a tyre too, maxxis are best.

[Captain Scarlet]

But why would I need a new wheel/rim?, whats the reason for doing so?, and have you tried this yourself?

-Tom

[kid creole]

you need a new rim cos the t-pro frame is designed for a 19'' rim , so with your 20'' rim the pads will hit the spokes instead of the rim cos its 1 inch to big , also you need a new tyre like a creppy crawler which is designed for a 19'' rim.

the reason you have the smaller rim is to allow a bigger tyre to make it extra bouncy.

[Captain Scarlet]

Fair enough mate, I just wanted to get an answer from my suspiscion that a 19" is only a term to define it as a wider wheel.

I put the pads on mate, they work and sound lush, thanks again.

Edited May 9, 2007 by thutley

[kid creole]

ahh cool im glad they work there only £11 to so that aint bad really

[ScotchDave]

Sorry to be a pedant, but the brake mounts will only be half an inch out, 20" and 19" are the diameters, not the radii. So you could probably make an adapter to run it for the time being..

[Muel]

Sorry to be a pedant, but the brake mounts will only be half an inch out, 20" and 19" are the diameters, not the radii. So you could probably make an adapter to run it for the time being..

Correct me if I am wrong, but on my T-pro I could adust the back wheel by more than 1.5 inches in the dropouts? Just bang the 20" wheel in, set it in the right place to line up with the brake pads and add a link or two into your chain!

This is how I would do it anyway, but I would be more worried about the pads actually hitting the rim, because they aren't that wide are they on T-Vees? But seeing as you will need 4 bolt mounts, get tensile offsets, and use them the wrong way round until you get a new wheel, but get an extra wide rim in the future.

[Captain Scarlet]

Hmn, but to get the brakes contacting squarely on the rim, the wheel would be on the very edge of the dropouts I'd imagine, as because the wheel is larger, it needs to be pushed outwards.

Well I'll give it a go with my mates T-Comp frame if he gets the chance, and it gives me the answer after all.

If anyone has anything else to add, then please fire away.

[aener]

I ran a 20" 2.4 in my T-Pro when I first started.

You can just pull the wheel further back in the dropouts, and the pads will line up with the rim just fine.

However:

I also found that an extra link left the chain too saggy, and it was too short if I didn't add an extra one. For this reason, I would suggest getting a half link. They give just the right amount of extra length;

Secondly, unless you have an abnormally wide 20" rim, the pads may struggle to reach the rim. I had my Magura salves ALL the way in, and on max TPA, and the only just locked. For this reason, I would suggest a booster. Echo 4-Bolts work very well, and they are the cheapest I've found.

On top of this, you will need 4-Bolt mounts, as you can't use the EVOII's that you'll have been using on the T-Vee. To kill two birds with one stone, you could get some of the Tensile OffSet 4-Bolt mounts. These will give you the right type of mount, and move the salves closer to the rim.

All in all - it's a hastle - but you CAN do it.

On the other hand, you could just get some of the ordinary 4-Bolt mounts, and a 19" rim/wheel, and a 19" tyre.

This will work out cheaper, as later on - if you go for the first method - you will realise you want to upgrade, and will spend all the money anyway.

If you're on a budget (like I am/was) I would recommend an Onza Hog rim (or a Hog rim on a T-Pro ((or T-Master if you have a bit more money)) hub if you want a whole wheel), and a Maxxis Creepy Crawler tyre.

Bear in mind - unless you can lace a rim onto a hub - which by the sound of you're experiance time - you don't (no offence intended), you'll also need to pay/have a contact with someone who can do it for you.

A lot of mod riders use this set up, and not a lot of complaints... I've had absolutely ZERO trouble with either of them.

In either case - I would recommend you get some chain tugs - or better yet - some snail cams (none in stock at the moment) to keep your wheel in place, which stops you snapping your chain like some daft b*****d just did :$

Chuck me an email/MSN/PM if you need any more info.

Flipp

[Muel]

I don't know if the dropouts are the same on the t-comp and the t-pro, but I do remember that on my T-pro I couldn't get the chain anywhere near tight enough because the brake cylinders wouldn't go back any further. Looking at my old frame now, the marks show that the wheels has never been anywhere near the end of the drop out. The wheel could move back at least half an inch and be comfy in the dropout.

It seems that your cheapest option is to get some four bolt mounts and the frame and try it. Measure the rim width though against the width of the rim you will have on your new wheel, then you will be able to decide which whether to get offset mounts.

the four bolt mounts are exactly 100mm away from each other on my frame, so measure your rim and the gap between your frame and yu will be able to guess at whether to get offset mounts or normal.

Hope I have been of some help.

EDIT: Remember you can't just get a new rim, you will need new spokes as well, or you might be able to build it in a 4 cross pattern with the existing spokes.

Edited May 9, 2007 by KuelMuel