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Rb Levers


Jang

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  • 2 weeks later...

I have no idea how people manage to make them so Poo.

I have zeb, plaz pads, lightly ground D521, rb lever and a normal maggie booster.

There is slightly more sponge than my original lever (but that had virtually no flex at all). This brake is immense. And I mean IMMENSE. The b*****d will not slip!!!

Al_fel or johntheguru will back me up.

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  • 2 weeks later...
Thing is, brake power can be very different...  you know Elliot Firth, that guy that won Expert Nass at Bath?  He runs red pads that are highly glazed and a dirty D521 rim....  His back brake is nasty, it just slips doing anything... for me.

He can pull his brake so hard however that its got enough power for him... Black pads, red pads, whatever... he makes any brake work....  I say learn to pull the lever harder!

I expect its cus he is skilled and doesnt need the brake to be so powerful

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A few months ago I wanted to know what an RB looked like on the inside. Couldnt find any pictures though... Now I have one, and the seals popped. So for all of you I made this pic, explaining how one looks on the inside:

rbassembly.jpg

1. Body. Holds the bugger together.

2. Lever blade.

3. Golden looking things, these sit on the lever blade, on the upper hole (where the lever connects to the body).

4. Bolts that hold the lever together.

5. Piston thing. This pushes the oil.

6. Spring. This pushes the piston out when pushed in.

7. Cylinder. The spring goes into this, followed by the piston (in the way shown)

8. "TPA" thing, adjusts pad wear and bite point.

9. Rubber O-ring. You may think that it is a spare seal, but no, it's the wrong size. Sits on the "TPA" to aid grip when turned.

10. Little gold thingy, sits on the lever blade and holds the "TPA" together with the blade.

And here's the lever fitted on my bike.

carbon.jpg

Too bad my bars snapped, grips ripped and RB started leaking then :-

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rbassembly.jpg

1. Body. Holds the bugger together.

2. Lever blade.

3. Golden looking things, these sit on the lever blade, on the upper hole (where the lever connects to the body).

4. Bolts that hold the lever together.

5. Piston thing. This pushes the oil.

6. Spring. This pushes the piston out when pushed in.

7. Cylinder. The spring goes into this, followed by the piston (in the way shown)

8. "TPA" thing, adjusts pad wear and bite point.

9. Rubber O-ring. You may think that it is a spare seal, but no, it's the wrong size. Sits on the "TPA" to aid grip when turned.

10. Little gold thingy, sits on the lever blade and holds the "TPA" together with the blade.

The seals that start leaking are the o rings on numba 5,the piston, rite?

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I was very lucky because I ordered mine from supercycles wen they dent have ne in but I rang up 3 weeks after the order I rang upthreatening them to send me 1 and they sed they found three that day and put it in next day delivery(for free) and a 5er discount.so im v happy

josh

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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 3 weeks later...
  • 3 weeks later...

just a little tip,at night or when you put your bike away loosen the tpa fully off.this means when the fluid inside expands when it gets cold the pads got oout instead of touching the rim and expanding thus blowing the seals

josh

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just a little  tip,at night or when you put your bike away loosen the tpa fully off.this means when the fluid inside expands when it gets cold the pads got oout instead of touching the rim and expanding thus blowing the seals

josh

thats true for normal magura though says it in the manual "to help magura life, loosen off TPA when not using" or something to that effect...

but nobody bothers, if its going to freeze.. which will make it expand.. your pritty fecked anyways, takes ages to sort that out...

Problem with moving the TPA is, when you have it in a spot on place.. you dont want to move it..

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  • 1 month later...
I am replacing my o-rings in the next few days, for anyone whois interested the mesurements are 10mm inside diameter, and 13mm outside diameter.meaning the o-ring is 3mm thick for the less bright among us.

I don't think so...

By those measurements the O-Ring will be 1.5mm thick :-

When I measured mine I thought it was closer to 9mm ID, and 2mm thickness... but I couldn't be arsed and put a magura cylinder in instead.

Jon

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