*PHIL* Posted May 1, 2007 Author Report Share Posted May 1, 2007 Look mate people will tell you all sorts of bodging tips n stuff but best way is to get a specific tensioner ( i do recomend gusset from tarty) shorten your chain to its max, do this befor you put tensioner on as it will allow you to get your chain really short. fit your tensioner. shortening the chain will allow more of the chain to wrap around the sprocket thus more contact between chain and sprocket. BE WISE...Plus you your bike will shead loads of weight. feel the weight of your drealiuer and compare it to the weight of your tensioner. Aslo the gussett tensioner will attach to both the wheel axle and mech hanger creating a stronger area so if you land on it less chance of snapping your mech hanger. win win situationbrilliant, thanks alot.but i still dont get how a chain tensioner works? is it securely fixed in place or is it springy? if not then why have one if you could just tighten the chain more?just trying to clear this up Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Krisboats Posted May 1, 2007 Report Share Posted May 1, 2007 brilliant, thanks alot.but i still dont get how a chain tensioner works? is it securely fixed in place or is it springy? if not then why have one if you could just tighten the chain more?just trying to clear this upPretty sure the gusset one is a fixed tensioner, without springs. In the same style as the On*One tensioners and freshproducts ones. Their pretty over-rated really. Sprung tensioners ARE better. Just taking links out of you chain though will improve your situation no-end and will remove the jumping chain completely. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scousertrials Posted May 1, 2007 Report Share Posted May 1, 2007 you will never completely get you chain to the desired tension just by removing links, jsu near to that tension thats why you will need the tensioning device. A sprung tensioner is just something to go wrong and cause more bodging days where a fixed tensioner just sits there with the exact tension you have applied by hand the you screw it tight ( not too tight that you strip threads n stuff). and it is better as its secured by the wheel axle bolts and mech hanger bolts supplied Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
*PHIL* Posted May 1, 2007 Author Report Share Posted May 1, 2007 you will never completely get you chain to the desired tension just by removing links, jsu near to that tension thats why you will need the tensioning device. A sprung tensioner is just something to go wrong and cause more bodging days where a fixed tensioner just sits there with the exact tension you have applied by hand the you screw it tight ( not too tight that you strip threads n stuff). and it is better as its secured by the wheel axle bolts and mech hanger bolts suppliedright i see...i reckon this is what im gonna do, but doesnt having everything fixed like that make the chain easier to snap??i know its a bad photo but is that not a chain tensioner already on my bike? attatched to the derailler? i havent really had a good look at it yet as im not sure what everything is Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tomm Posted May 1, 2007 Report Share Posted May 1, 2007 I have used several single speed tensioners and I'm yet to find one that actually tensions the chain better than a normal mech (By the way, rear mech = derailleur). Yes, they're smaller and lighter and less breakable, but in terms of tensioning, mechs are really good - They've just got some really nice big powerful springs in them. Having said that, the Rohloff tensioners are supposed to be good - probably because they're a similar design to a normal mech. The first thing you should do is take a link or two out of your chain. The second thing (if you're still having problems) is to run your chain through the mech properly, but you might have to find some more bits for that (Jockey wheels).And yeah those fixed tensioners aren't particularly good. But I don't think they make the chain more likely to snap - they will move (with or without breaking the mech hanger) but I don't think the chain is in any particular danger. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
*PHIL* Posted May 1, 2007 Author Report Share Posted May 1, 2007 i think until i understand the situation fully or have loads of cash to throw at the problem im gonna just tighten the chain and use THIS and only this --> http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=5777it will fit right?so... why dont people use helium in tubes?? i thought of that a while ago and cant see ANY drawbacks whatsoever. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Luke Rainbird Posted May 1, 2007 Report Share Posted May 1, 2007 (edited) This will be better (from my own experiences)Same, cheaper, but out of stockFrom most of the reviews, this will be better again, but at more of a price. Won't need your hanger though, which is always niceRegarded by many as the best tensioner availableWhip out as many links as possible, and run your mech properly (ie. as a real mech, both jockey wheels, normal routing etc) before buying one though, as you'll probably be fine.If not, stick on a tensioner, with the chain still as short as possibleThe non-sprung ones (DMR, Gusset, Onza) are fine, however if you land on your chain they will probably need to be repositioned (oh dear, 2 secs with an allen key!)Sprung ones (74Kingz, Rohloff) won't need this, as they are sprung () so will return to their original positionOh, and if you can find a tube that will hold helium, have fun Edited May 1, 2007 by Monkey Boy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Krisboats Posted May 1, 2007 Report Share Posted May 1, 2007 i think until i understand the situation fully or have loads of cash to throw at the problem im gonna just tighten the chain and use THIS and only this --> http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=5777it will fit right?so... why dont people use helium in tubes?? i thought of that a while ago and cant see ANY drawbacks whatsoever.It'll fit, but be prepared to re-adjust your tensioner after your chain goes slack after every relatively decent amount of power goes through the pedals. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tomm Posted May 2, 2007 Report Share Posted May 2, 2007 i think until i understand the situation fully or have loads of cash to throw at the problem im gonna just tighten the chain and use THIS and only this --> http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=5777it will fit right?But that will give you much less tension and solve nothing. Like I said, the best tensioners are mechs themselves. Just set it up properly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
*PHIL* Posted May 2, 2007 Author Report Share Posted May 2, 2007 But that will give you much less tension and solve nothing. Like I said, the best tensioners are mechs themselves. Just set it up properly.ok so, how would i set it up?at the moment it just looks like a mess to me Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Krisboats Posted May 2, 2007 Report Share Posted May 2, 2007 ok so, how would i set it up?at the moment it just looks like a mess to meWE'VE ALREADY F****** TOLD YOU!!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jamie_Neal Posted May 2, 2007 Report Share Posted May 2, 2007 Check your chain ring. If it's worn, this could be your problem. Your chain, cog and mech look ok (although do shorten the chain a couple of links) but if you're running a new chain on a worn chainring then this can slip really badly - usually when you're just riding along and then put some extra power down.I'd check your chain ring and if the teeth are pointy (compare to a new one if possible) then change it - or just buy a new steel one, usually about the £5 mark. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobinJI Posted May 2, 2007 Report Share Posted May 2, 2007 I think at this point, the easiest thing you can do is to just take it to a bike shop, and ask them to put the mech back together as it originally would have been from the factory, and set it up properly. It sounds like you're taking it to a bike shop anyway, so I'm assuming this wont be too much extra hassle.Either that, or just get them to fit a singlespeed tensioner.It's up to you, both ways will work, and should stop the problem, it's just whether you want to pay for a neat tensioner or use the mech you already have.(Some shops may dislike the idea of using a mech as a tensioner, and not really want to set it up as one, but just be nice and assuming there a good bike shop who know what there doing, they will explain everything to you, don't go to halfords or anywhere like that, go to a good local bike shop who are well recommended) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
*PHIL* Posted May 2, 2007 Author Report Share Posted May 2, 2007 WE'VE ALREADY F****** TOLD YOU!!!!i know but i meant, physically, what do i adjust? (you dont need to answer that)ive just been messin about with it now and i reckon its completely fuct and useless there is no way to adjust anything on it and its really out of line, just keeps ripping the chain off.it was also not letting the wheel sit in the dropouts properly so was giving me brake problems.probs just gonna go with a sprung tensioner.. seems like thats the best derailleur-less solutionCheck your chain ring. If it's worn, this could be your problem.you mean the front or rear chainring? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Luke Rainbird Posted May 2, 2007 Report Share Posted May 2, 2007 you mean the front or rear chainring?Both...and chain... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
basher Posted May 2, 2007 Report Share Posted May 2, 2007 oh my god!! you have been told so many times how you can fix it by either using you deralier and unbunching it or by buying a fixed tensioner, and i bet in all the time the topic has been going you havnt gone to your bike once and tryed fiddleing to get it working. Fitting a fixed tensioner for f**k sake uses like 2 brain cells its pritty much common sense and if you manage to put one on wrong i have lost all hope in you ever getting it to stop skipping. Just go and fiddle with your bike and try what people have suggested and i would advise you to start by taking links out of your chain. Writing on the forum isn't going to fix your bike is it so now you have got ideas of how to fix it go and bloody fix it instead of asking question after question which are just common sense ones. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
*PHIL* Posted May 2, 2007 Author Report Share Posted May 2, 2007 im sorry but every time i think im starting to understand it someone else suggests something different. the reason im so confused is because ive got nothing to go off, there is no way of adjusting the existing setup without changing or adding parts (i have actually been out and tried just messing about with it)doesnt matter i think ill just throw my bike in the bin and give up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
basher Posted May 2, 2007 Report Share Posted May 2, 2007 SOrry i ranted abit but dont quit because of something as silly as this. Have you removed as many links as is possible yet, if not go and remove a link or 2; and then try resetting up your deralier. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
*PHIL* Posted May 2, 2007 Author Report Share Posted May 2, 2007 SOrry i ranted abit but dont quit because of something as silly as this. Have you removed as many links as is possible yet, if not go and remove a link or 2; and then try resetting up your deralier.dont have a chain tool yet so i havent, im gonna take it to the shop today and get them to fit a simple fixed tensioner and shorten the chain until i can afford a rohloff one.i would try the derailler again after shortening but it wont lineup with the chain properly...........why do my new brake pads smell of mold? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tomm Posted May 2, 2007 Report Share Posted May 2, 2007 the reason im so confused is because ive got nothing to go off, there is no way of adjusting the existing setup without changing or adding partsYes there is. Take some links out for starters. If that means buying a chain tool for about £6 then do that! It'll come in really useful in the future, I promise. Then take the spring out of the mech as Krisboats has explained to you (or read THIS) - which will require a 5mm allen key and perhaps a screw driver to pry the circlip off. If it still skips which is pretty unlikely, make sure that the mech is all lined up properly and the chain line is straight. You can do this by reading any instructions for setting up derailleurs or even just your common sense...For the last time, buying a tensioner WILL NOT HELP. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
*PHIL* Posted May 2, 2007 Author Report Share Posted May 2, 2007 6. Take the spring out and throw it somewhere (Or keep it, i'm not bothered)haha i like that. you're not bothered.rights ill try this then. cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Concussion Posted May 2, 2007 Report Share Posted May 2, 2007 .........why do my new brake pads smell of mold?WTF, am I dreaming? Sort your shit out dude! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rebelistic Posted May 2, 2007 Report Share Posted May 2, 2007 A fixed tensioner like the Gusset from tartybikes would be a simple, cheap solution though.I run one myself at the moment, it does gradually seem to slacken off though, but it's very easy to set up.The jocky wheel (plastic wheel on the tensioner) is quite wide so you don't really have to worry about chainline as you do with a rear mech.As someone has said you really need to get a chain tool to remove the extra links in the chain.Hope you get it sorted Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
*PHIL* Posted May 2, 2007 Author Report Share Posted May 2, 2007 WTF, am I dreaming? Sort your shit out dude!first of all... WHAT???? that wasnt a serious question!second of all, i got a chain link remover and shortened the chain.i could only remove 1 link and it will not get any shorter!so now i have nothing on it, just 2 cogs and a really tight chain that feels like its gonna snap at any second.i cant ride it now because the chain is f**ked and i need some link pin or something...and see what i mean about everyone saying different things? on person says a chain tensioner will do nothing and the next post it says a tensioner would be a cheap solution!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tomm Posted May 2, 2007 Report Share Posted May 2, 2007 A chain tensioner won't solve your problems. If your mech is set up properly, then it will tension better than any single speed tensioner*. If you want to save some weight then by all means buy a tensioner. I'm just saying that there's no point splashing out on one when you've still got this problem.Can you post another picture with the chain like it is?*With the possible exception of Rohloff Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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