Buffed Rims

[Elliot]

absorbs the moisture...sweaty hands=death.

although conventional wisdom says thats true, there is actually some argument that says chalk makes things worse. Read about it on ukclimbing a few years back, still climb with chalk though.

[Tomm]

It blocks your pores so you don't sweat as much, and it probably absorbs some of the sweat too. If you're anything like me (I.e. you sweat buckets) then it's DEFINITELY better to have chalk. That paper is fairly flawed.

[Elliot]

That paper is fairly flawed.

As I said I still use chalk because subjectively I think it helps, but I'm interested to hear why you think the papers flawed?

(sorry this is turning into a bit of a hijack!)

[Tomm]

As I said I still use chalk because subjectively I think it helps, but I'm interested to hear why you think the papers flawed?

(sorry this is turning into a bit of a hijack!)

Well it basically implies that it's best to use nothing rather than to use chalk. This doesn't take into account the amount of moisture you create whilst climbing which is surely by far the most important factor.

It's only on the last line where they say that "alternative methods for drying the fingers are preferable", though it doesn't suggest any. It also says "For the coefficient of friction, largely it is. Is it useless? Possibly not, as a psychological support, although the exact magnitude of this support remains to be evaluated" which is again complete toss as they fail to really acknowledge that the purpose of chalk is to dry your hands, not to be some kind of glue that sticks you to the rock. And then to say that it's only of psychological benefit... It just reads like it's been written by someone who's never climbed in their life.

[Elliot]

This doesn't take into account the amount of moisture you create whilst climbing which is surely by far the most important factor.

but thats the whole idea of the study, looking at the friction coefficient of your hands on various rock surfaces, when dry (no sweat) wet (sweaty) dry and chalked, and wet and chalked (sweaty and chalked). They found that the lowest friction coefficient occured with wet chalked hands, and the highest with wet hands, i.e. your less likely to slip if you dont chalk up when your sweaty.

I'm not saying that it is without flaws (how did they keep the pressure of hands on rock constant for one) but it does seem to suggest that chalk doesnt help. though I'm not chucking my chalk bag away anytime soon.

edit - just thinking do you mean they dont take into account the increase in volume of wetness over time? I mean climbing harder and getting sweatier?

[Concussion]

Weird, I must have super dry palms, I sweat everywhere else like a SOB when riding! If I needed a bit more grip, on my grips... I'd lick my hands a bit, as nasty as that sounds, but certainly not to the point that they are wet/been raining etc.

I find that after riding with gloves for a bit, my grips become dry ie: loose their `fresh out of the pack tackiness` so the old lick my palms comes into effect?

I haven't a clue about skin to rock though, although I imagine chalk to be bad, like a dusty surface? ...weird

[Will Fairburn]

Well i will let you all know if it works well or not on thursday evening,

my technology teacher at my school is going to buff my rim and i suppose

if i dont like i can rough it up a bit with sand paper.

Stupid Question: Will i need to remove my grind before buffing my rim i.e use sand paper to make a smooth rim?

Cheers

Will

[Concussion]

I would imagine so. Let us know how it works...t`was your thread after all!

[Tomm]

but thats the whole idea of the study, looking at the friction coefficient of your hands on various rock surfaces, when dry (no sweat) wet (sweaty) dry and chalked, and wet and chalked (sweaty and chalked). They found that the lowest friction coefficient occured with wet chalked hands, and the highest with wet hands, i.e. your less likely to slip if you dont chalk up when your sweaty.

I'm not saying that it is without flaws (how did they keep the pressure of hands on rock constant for one) but it does seem to suggest that chalk doesnt help. though I'm not chucking my chalk bag away anytime soon.

edit - just thinking do you mean they dont take into account the increase in volume of wetness over time? I mean climbing harder and getting sweatier?

OK, it's not a complete waste of time because it's kinda interesting. But I don't think it's testing the right thing.

Sweat is a great lubricant. The point of chalk is to keep your hands dry, right? Water is NOT the same composition as sweat - sweat is much, much greasier. I don't care if sweat is 99% water, that extra 1% obviously makes a lot of difference.

Also, subjectively, I climb a lot and my sweaty hands hold me back a lot - and chalk definitely helps. There is no doubt at all.

I have some liquid chalk anyway - which doesn't even leave any dust on your fingers. Best of both worlds?

[mat hudson]

Well i will let you all know if it works well or not on thursday evening,

my technology teacher at my school is going to buff my rim and i suppose

if i dont like i can rough it up a bit with sand paper.

Stupid Question: Will i need to remove my grind before buffing my rim i.e use sand paper to make a smooth rim?

Cheers

Will

raaaaaaaaaagggggggggggghhhhhhhhhhhh hah hahahahh hahahahahahhaha hahhahahaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaa

[Will Fairburn]

Well I can say It's 'A load of sh1t!' It works awful so going to use mates angle grinder and try getting on better with

a grind again.

Cheers, Will

[ScotchDave]

OK, it's not a complete waste of time because it's kinda interesting. But I don't think it's testing the right thing.

Sweat is a great lubricant. The point of chalk is to keep your hands dry, right? Water is NOT the same composition as sweat - sweat is much, much greasier. I don't care if sweat is 99% water, that extra 1% obviously makes a lot of difference.

Also, subjectively, I climb a lot and my sweaty hands hold me back a lot - and chalk definitely helps. There is no doubt at all.

I have some liquid chalk anyway - which doesn't even leave any dust on your fingers. Best of both worlds?

How do you find the liquid chalk, thinking of buying some to try...

[Concussion]

Well I can say It's 'A load of sh1t!' It works awful so going to use mates angle grinder and try getting on better with

a grind again.

Cheers, Will

H`mmm? How polished did you get it, I imagine that grind you had on it effected what kind of shiny surface you could achieve, regardless of how you sanded it down, well kinda? Did you also use that wax polish stuff that you use with those machines?

Mine is an un-grinded rim with a good smooth surface, I have high hopes.

...post a pic please, in good light.

Edited April 26, 2007 by Concussion