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Buffed Rims


Will Fairburn

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Evening,

Jus put plazmatics on rear brake and got told they work really well on a buffed/chrome

rim with or without tar and apparently meant to be really loud?? :blink:

Anyway....

What kind of Buffer do you use to do this??

I have seem 2 different types of buffers myself....

1. a drillpiece with metal bits hanging off it

2. A white wool type thing that is at my school

So Which one... or if anyone has any pictures of what type of buffer they use

Cheers

Will

x

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Supposedly they work well on chrome rims, but that's an extra metal coating used on rims which makes them a bit heavier and it's not something you can just add to the rim. I have never heard of anyone buffing a rim on a trials bike, I can't think that it would do much good.

Get the angle grinder out ;)

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Supposedly they work well on chrome rims, but that's an extra metal coating used on rims which makes them a bit heavier and it's not something you can just add to the rim. I have never heard of anyone buffing a rim on a trials bike, I can't think that it would do much good.

Get the angle grinder out ;)

I already have a grind not to keen on it (N)

Cheers Though,

oh... mate has buffed his rim but cant get hold of him, but the brake works mint alot better than before

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Dad has this machine, shines the hell out of anything... worth a go right?

Factory55.jpg

yep, go for it, you can allways grind it again of need be or roughen it up with a bit of sandpaper.

I don't know the in's and out's of it, but in theorey, two parallel flat highly polished surfaces surfaces, are supposed to be very good for friction(thinking disc brake sorta thing here???) but then generally people don't grind their disc's yet it's good for rim brakes.....

worth a try, and your the sort of person who wouldn't bullshit and can articulate themselves so we'll actually know the outcome.....(Y)

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Dad has this machine, shines the hell out of anything... worth a go right?

Factory55.jpg

Go for it. My old plazzies worked better on a rim that had been grinded then wet and dry'd smooth than they did on a brand new ronnie with the machined sidewalls. Its not like its taking a layer off if it doesn't work like a grind would, you dont have anything to lose doing this. If you use a type of polishing agent to aid the shining process be sure to wash the rim with washing up liquid and warm water afterwards to remove any traces of the polishing agent.

Should be good though, plazzies love shiny rims.

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yep, go for it, you can allways grind it again of need be or roughen it up with a bit of sandpaper.

I don't know the in's and out's of it, but in theorey, two parallel flat highly polished surfaces surfaces, are supposed to be very good for friction(thinking disc brake sorta thing here???) but then generally people don't grind their disc's yet it's good for rim brakes.....

worth a try, and your the sort of person who wouldn't bullshit and can articulate themselves so we'll actually know the outcome..... (Y)

Disc pads are harder so wont compress as much, plus the way a disc works is as it heats up a slight amount of resin is rubbed onto the rotor which gives the disc its hold and a smooth rotor is better for the resin to stick to.

Maggie pads are much softer so can easily compress to fit in with the distorted and slightly larger surface area of a ground rim, meaning they grip it more than if it were flat.

Pretty sure thats the basic jist of it.

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P = F/A???

P is bigger because the surface is smooth so more is in contact with the braking surface??

god I need to go to bed.

But when you pull the brake the pad compresses into all the little grooves and slots in the grind, which gives a larger surface area.

Like the insides of your intestines, they're covered with little philia (not even 30% sure on it being the right word/spelling :lol:) which stick out and increase the surface area for the abosorbtion of nutrients from your food. If the walls of you intestines were not lined with philia then there'd be a much smaller surface area. Its the same kind of priciple with a grind, only it adds frictional force as well because of it being abbrasive.

Again, i'm not 100% on it, but it seems to make sense :D

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Yeah but there's no problem with friction or pressure or force in your intestines so I'm not quite sure why we're talking about it.

P.S. 'Villi'

P.P.S. Think about nice smooth trainers playing football indoors on a nice smooth shiny floor = good grip. Then think about the same trainers outdoors on a slightly damp grass football pitch - rubbish grip. Football boots outside would be waaaay better, but they'd be terrible on the indoor surface. It depends on the characteristics of the individual pad/rim combo - I don't think there is a simple formula (P = F/A) that will tell you what is best.

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Yeah but there's no problem with friction or pressure or force in your intestines so I'm not quite sure why we're talking about it.

P.S. 'Villi'

P.P.S. Think about nice smooth trainers playing football indoors on a nice smooth shiny floor = good grip. Then think about the same trainers outdoors on a slightly damp grass football pitch - rubbish grip. Football boots outside would be waaaay better, but they'd be terrible on the indoor surface. It depends on the characteristics of the individual pad/rim combo - I don't think there is a simple formula (P = F/A) that will tell you what is best.

It wasn't about friction or force... it was about maximising surface area.

You can't use wet grass as a comparison, grass is also shiny, but whilst being wet introduces an item that reduces friction. The comparison you should have made is smooth shoes on a smooth even floor (shiny indicates being buffered or polished :P), vs smooth shoes on a concrete tarmac floor without dust/water/dog shit to slip on. The grip is much better on the tarmac because its uneven, and offers higher friction and marginally larger surface area once the shoe is compress to the surface of the tarmac.

Football boots is a bad example as they are both hard objects, neither is softer to contort to the shape of the other like a brake pad/rim.

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You're missing my point a bit. I was saying that for the same sport (football) and the same surface area (your foot), the grip and the type of shoe you should use depends completely on the surface. I was saying that for the indoor floor, trainers are good because it's smooth. For a grass pitch, the boots would be better. My point is that it all depends on the pad/rim combo - not just one or the other.

P.S. Have you ever run on indoor 5-a-side pitches? They're really grippy, I'd say grippier than concrete (As long as they're dry and you're not wearing the wrong shoes and all the rest of it).

In terms of maximising surface area, why don't we have foot-long pads? Because they'd be rubbish.

Like I said, it's not that simple. I suspect a shiny chrome rim is like trainers on the indoor pitch - very good until it gets a bit wet, then useless. But either way, arguing about it probably isn't gonna give us any answers, we need someone to actually do it.

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Er`m :$ Why do people use chalk on there hands for grip when climbing, or sometimes riding as I once read on here?

As regards to riding with rubber grips, if my hands and grips are super clean, it would take an incredible amount of force to separate me from them!

So why chalk, seems like the `worsed` thing to do to me? Always wanted to ask someone that!

...I fear this my be a stupid question, but this thread seems the place for it.

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