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Got A Wee Bit Of A Problem.


Danny Kearns

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Right i brought my adamant frame off ben geary. Threads were fine and everything. Just brought brand new GU Cranks, GU bash and Echo bb off damon.

Tried fitting the BB and the drive side goes in fine. None drive side wont go in at all. Ive thourougly cleaned it all, bb threads and frame threads. But still it wont go in.

Please help.

Danny.

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Get down your Halfords and get the threads chased.

If your cool you might be able to blag it for free. At our store we've got a £500 Park Tool for facing BBs and chasing BB threads, 'tis pimp.

LBS will do it too, could be cheaper I dunno. Go to either one and if they do it properly your threads will be perfect after (Y)

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What do u mean by won't go in at all.

I had a BB then screwed injust one rotation then it wouldn't budge. Had to put alot of effort in for half a dozen terns then it eased off.

Will it go in just one turn?

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What do u mean by won't go in at all.

I had a BB then screwed injust one rotation then it wouldn't budge. Had to put alot of effort in for half a dozen terns then it eased off.

Will it go in just one turn?

Yeah it will go in 2 turns actually and then i have to apply mega mega pressure to get it any further but i darnt incase i thread my frame.

Danny.

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Yeah it will go in 2 turns actually and then i have to apply mega mega pressure to get it any further but i darnt incase i thread my frame.

Danny.

If it's on the first two threads, wind her on.

Honestly. Anyone who knows me knows I don't like bullshit info being given out, but if your on the first two threads and they are not damaged, winding the BB on won't damage them.

The same happened with my try all freewheel when I got it, Wound it on initially, stopped going on, check all other freewheels, they screwed on easy. even took it to a bike shop they couldn't help. I went hom, got it on the first few threads and gave her some beans, wound that bugger on. It was on so tight it took compressed air hammer drill to remove it, and it took about a minute of hammering before the thing started to budge. The threads are perfect, not cross threaded as I thought they would be, and now the freewheel screws on and off easily by hand as the acs and dicta that I tried before did.

I don't have an explanation for it, ut like I said, wind her on in there, just don't expect to remove it yourself any time soon, you'll need to take it to a tyre garage and see if they can use their gas drill for you...

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Yeah it will go in 2 turns actually and then i have to apply mega mega pressure to get it any further but i darnt incase i thread my frame.

I'd apply the mega mega pressure. Just keep an eye on it and do it slowly.

(Y)

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My old bb was the same on my base. I took it to local bike shop, they used the thread clearing tap on it to clear the threads of paint/gunk and to make sure they were straight. Gota new bb, slid in fine by hand.... only needed the tool right at the end to make sure it was tight.

I'd give that a go first. Then try Jakes more forceful approach.

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Please remember that you won't be removing it again, unless you have access to a compressed air socket wrench sorta thing.

Perhaps a freewheel is differant as they are self tightening but i've never experianced threads holding like they did with the freewheel, 6+ ft power bar on the end of the tool and still nothing, that's with two people hanging off the end....... I just think I should make you aware of it incase you end up doing what i've suggested.

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But what if the first two threads are in fact cross threaded? It will go in easily up to a point and then just stop.

Do what Shaun wrote, messing with BB threads isn't really a good idea. Better safe than sorry :)

yeah - do that ^^

i knackered mine cos the first couple of threads on the cup were ropey, went in ok but put the rest of it out of line for when I started applying man pressure (i was a bit pissed too but that's not the point)

Edited by poopipe
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But what if the first two threads are in fact cross threaded? It will go in easily up to a point and then just stop.

Do what Shaun wrote, messing with BB threads isn't really a good idea. Better safe than sorry :)

When I said 'if you are on the first few threads and they are not damaged' they refer's to the full thread, rather than the first 2 peaks probobly should have made that bit clear.

He will be able to take the bb out and see if there is a problem, if you cant see anything try running your finger round but if it's at the start it shoudl be easily visable if there is a problem... he did say inteh original post that the threads were fine, so i totally neglected that.

its usually just a case of being paranoid of f**king up the threads when it gets stiff after a couple of turns... This has happened to me on all my frames (gets tight after a few turns then its fine)

yep, cos if you properly cross thread it, it would end up not being able to go any further at a point(as in because the BB would effectively be trying to cut out through the tube, you'll probobly find that will take some beans to screwed right in even till the very end.

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Oright mate,

I had this exact problem last weekend with my T- pro but mine was the drive side which wouldn't go in.

I thought that my threads were knackered but I just wound on... lol And there isn't anything wrong with mine but I think it would be very difficult to remove it if I wanted to..

Cheers CJ.. (Y)

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dan, i did say if you bought it down to the shop , i would properly tap the bb shell and fit your bb for the bargain price of £5, thats cheap mate, most bike shops would be around £15, but you know i love you baby!

bring it down today, and stop pissing around.

rob

o yer, a f**k halfords man, you need a bike shop, where they know what they are doing.

halfords = clueless

Edited by onzabob
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I had the same problem with my Adamant as well. Screwed the non drive side in by hand and it went in without any effort at all, but the drive side was a total b*****d. It took a real effort to get it screwed in, but I did it in sections to make sure I wasn't destroying the threads, and it's fine now. It seemed like the anodizing on the bb cup was too thick, but after being scraped away by getting screwed in it was all good. I took it out to remove the filings from the bb shell, then it went back in by hand without a hitch.

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Get down your Halfords and get the threads chased.

If your cool you might be able to blag it for free. At our store we've got a £500 Park Tool for facing BBs and chasing BB threads, 'tis pimp.

LBS will do it too, could be cheaper I dunno. Go to either one and if they do it properly your threads will be perfect after (Y)

we have the campagnolo tapping and facing tool ( i had the park tool one at home and they are weak and cheaply made ) we got the campag one for work and it has worked wonders (well it should be for £730) but yer take it to halfords if your having problem and you live near there mate :)

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