Anjow Posted April 16, 2007 Report Share Posted April 16, 2007 I am busy hating trying to get my HS33s set up right.I keep finding that one pad is rubbing on the rim. When I pull the lever, one pad engages before the other. Regardless of how many times I try and make it so it doesn't, it keeps happening. I have tried setting them both an equal distance away at least 5 times in the last hour, but it seems when I pull the lever on one STILL manages to engage before the other, as though pulling the lever on moves one of them within the mount, even though they're both done up tight.How do you adjust your brakes? Am I doing something wrong? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TomR Posted April 16, 2007 Report Share Posted April 16, 2007 I usually wind the adjuster right in, set the pads to the rim then wind the adjuster back out as a rough guide.If they're not moving in equal distances then they probably need bleeding. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anjow Posted April 16, 2007 Author Report Share Posted April 16, 2007 Need bleeding? The bike was made from scratch only last Wednesday Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AdamR28 Posted April 16, 2007 Report Share Posted April 16, 2007 Shouldn't need to adjust the brakes if the bike is new... Magura brakes can rarely be set up to make one piston hit before the other, there's too many variables - if one piston is a little tighter fit than the other, spring rate... plus the hose goes to one cylinder first (yes I'm aware the pressure throughout the system should be the same, but on all the HS33s I've seen the cylinder with the main hose attached to it always seems to move first).As long as both pads are hitting squarely and are the same distance from the rim that's all you can ask for Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ilikeriding Posted April 16, 2007 Report Share Posted April 16, 2007 Same happens to me, doesnt seem to affect the performance. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anjow Posted April 16, 2007 Author Report Share Posted April 16, 2007 (edited) I tried it the way TomR suggested, it seemed fine at first - they were both an equal distance away and neither caught. Then after a few more squeezes of the lever the piston that the hose goes to first starts catching... It seems like I just CAN'T have a decent biting point on the lever without either of the pads catching because whenever I set it up it seems to change within a few minutes!I set it so that they are both equidistant from the rim, tighten up the mounts, spin the wheel to see if they catch (they don't), squeeze a few times - it's still fine, squeeze a few more times and the pad that the host comes to second has somehow moved in towards the rim and started catching.Is the first piston the hose goes to called the master and the other one the slave? Edited April 16, 2007 by Anjow Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
basher Posted April 16, 2007 Report Share Posted April 16, 2007 I tried it the way TomR suggested, it seemed fine at first - they were both an equal distance away and neither caught. Then after a few more squeezes of the lever the piston that the hose goes to first starts catching... It seems like I just CAN'T have a decent biting point on the lever without either of the pads catching because whenever I set it up it seems to change within a few minutes!I set it so that they are both equidistant from the rim, tighten up the mounts, spin the wheel to see if they catch (they don't), squeeze a few times - it's still fine, squeeze a few more times and the pad that the host comes to second has somehow moved in towards the rim and started catching.Is the first piston the hose goes to called the master and the other one the slave?Then set it up using no tpa (it wound all the way off) then the pistons aren't able to move back in ect meaning the brake won't keep changeing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Netherking Posted April 16, 2007 Report Share Posted April 16, 2007 i had the same probelm a while ago, one of my pistons was all gummed up and so took more pressure to move itmaybe take the pads off and have a look?harry Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tomm Posted April 16, 2007 Report Share Posted April 16, 2007 Maguras ARE a pain in the arse to set up correctly. Listen to Adam, he knows best. It is a bit of an art, and if you've done it a few times you definitely get the knack for it. I wouldn't really recommend the way TomR said, just because if your pads don't retract normally then you'll have problems with the TPA wound in like he said. If you're really stuck, a very easy way is to take the tyre off and put the wheel back in, that way you can adjust the maguras without the tyre being in the way. Wind the TPA all the way OUT (pads furthest from the rim). Use some 2p coins between the pads and the rim, they're the right sort of thickness. Then adjust it so everything's nice and parallel and do everything up tight. The good news is that once you set them up properly, if you do the bolts up nice and tight, you shouldn't need to touch them ever again.P.S. From what you were saying in the other topic about the back brake being quite spongy - have you got the same pads front and rear? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anjow Posted April 16, 2007 Author Report Share Posted April 16, 2007 I don't know what exact pads they are since they just came with the bike on Saturday, but they look the same - all of them are red, I think (colourblind).I THINK I have got it sorted, at least for now. I did try using something between the pad and the rim, I had a go with both a very thin pedal spanner and some folded card. The pads aren't catching, the bite point isn't too close to the handlebar and it still feels moderately spongy, though I do expect that will diminish when I fit a booster tomorrow. And that means setting the brakes up all over again. Yay. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fredrico Posted April 16, 2007 Report Share Posted April 16, 2007 I find the way which works for me is to wind the tpa all the way out, then push the cylinders in so that that the pads are firmly on then rim, lightly tighten the bolts (so the cylinder can move with a little pressure) then pull the lever to the position you like most and then let go. Tighten up the bolts and you should have the pads hit both at the same time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anjow Posted April 17, 2007 Author Report Share Posted April 17, 2007 My booster arrived today and I fitted it with the help of my wench (god knows how you're meant to do something that fiddly on your own...) - it seems to have had the desired effect, they don't feel as spongy any more (though I haven't ridden it yet).The only thing now is I think my chain is a bit tight. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
downhill_rob2@hotmail.com Posted April 17, 2007 Report Share Posted April 17, 2007 The only thing now is I think my chain is a bit tight.Slacken it then? lolIf you think its too tight, do something about it! lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anjow Posted April 17, 2007 Author Report Share Posted April 17, 2007 The point was I was having trouble getting it right. When it seems right, after a bit of riding it gets looser. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tomm Posted April 17, 2007 Report Share Posted April 17, 2007 The point was I was having trouble getting it right. When it seems right, after a bit of riding it gets looser.Chains do stretch a bit when they're new. Not sure you'd notice it this quickly though, so it's probably the wheel moving in the dropout. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anjow Posted April 17, 2007 Author Report Share Posted April 17, 2007 Yeah, I think that is it - the rectangular bits of the tensioner that fit in the slot of the dropout are a really tight fit, so I think the effects of loosening or tightening them don't show until the wheel has taken some impacts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JackF Posted April 19, 2007 Report Share Posted April 19, 2007 Yeah, I think that is it - the rectangular bits of the tensioner that fit in the slot of the dropout are a really tight fit, so I think the effects of loosening or tightening them don't show until the wheel has taken some impacts.I am having exactly the same problem and it only shows after i have have either dropped a few things or gapped something and when it happens it is a bugger to fix.Jack Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TrashZen Posted April 20, 2007 Report Share Posted April 20, 2007 (edited) for magura setups, invest in a long 4mm alen key (short ones just make it so annoying with the tire in the way of the fingers)a long key makes it all very easy to bolt/unbolt (the L shape is clear above the tire and the cylinders won't move accidentally during tightening) Edited April 20, 2007 by TrashZen Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ash-Kennard Posted April 20, 2007 Report Share Posted April 20, 2007 i just undo one side abit, push it so it touches the rim, then gently pull the lever so its perfectly straight and a t a distance i like. then do it up and do the same with the other side, other than that, just whack the tpa on it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Krisboats Posted April 20, 2007 Report Share Posted April 20, 2007 i just undo one side abit, push it so it touches the rim, then gently pull the lever so its perfectly straight and a t a distance i like. then do it up and do the same with the other side, other than that, just whack the tpa on itTis the way i do it too once i've gotten annoyed by them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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