trials rules Posted February 12, 2007 Report Share Posted February 12, 2007 So we've all heard about the 26" mods, but what really are the differences between a 26" mod and a mod, apart from the obvious wheel size, and between a 26" mod and and a normal 26"? And also, why would i want to buy one and not the other?Just wondering because im considering a new Zoo! Pitbull but not sure wether to think mod or normal..Cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
0llie Posted February 12, 2007 Report Share Posted February 12, 2007 26'' mod means no rear mech so less to snap but u run a mofd hub spacing 116 instead of 135 basically it realy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fish-Finger-er Posted February 12, 2007 Report Share Posted February 12, 2007 So we've all heard about the 26" mods, but what really are the differences between a 26" mod and a mod, apart from the obvious wheel size, and between a 26" mod and and a normal 26"? And also, why would i want to buy one and not the other?Just wondering because im considering a new Zoo! Pitbull but not sure wether to think mod or normal..Cheers 26" mod means you run 116mm rear hub spacing, so youll be running SS,snailcams. no tensioner. so no mech/hanger to smash up. which is something i was thinkin the other night, on conventional trials bikes its a pretty poor idea in my opinion. however. if it was put onto streety frames. to be used with chain tensioners. i think it would be a crackin idea, for street trials bikes. and for street bikes(as pure street. could run bmx coaster etc) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bigman Posted February 12, 2007 Report Share Posted February 12, 2007 From what i can see is that there are not realy many advantages realy, yes it means you don't have to run a mech but then again with a tensioner such as the 74kingz you will not snap any hangers, 26 mod does not have the vast choice of hubs that standard 135mm frames do, for example 135mm you have pro-2's cheap kings etc for 26 mod (110mm) it is either echo freehubs (not heard much great about them) CK BMX hub (£400ish) and profiles (die on stocks due to different forces)So i would go with a standard 135mm frame, MANY more options, also it would have a much higher re-sale value Adam Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fishy Posted February 12, 2007 Report Share Posted February 12, 2007 Or you could just grind the axle down on the 135mm spaced hubs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bigman Posted February 12, 2007 Report Share Posted February 12, 2007 Or you could just grind the axle down on the 135mm spaced hubs.You may laugh, Tunni did it to a CK classic Adam Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fyfey Posted February 12, 2007 Report Share Posted February 12, 2007 I've got myself a 26" Mod Echo Control and was wondering what hub to use!!I've heard the freehubs skip alot? So is front freewheel and a fixed rear hub the way to go? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hugh_b Posted February 12, 2007 Report Share Posted February 12, 2007 ive just got the adamant a1 2007 stock mod frame, i am riding comps on it but i believe you can run single speed in uci and biu seems to be changing (well in spain so far anyway). I'm just building mine up and have gone for an adamant rear fixed up and a front monty ti (new 07 loads of clicks jobby) freewheel. Tartybikes have told me that the cassette hubs are a bit weak so defo go for the front freewheel option. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Abdab. Posted February 12, 2007 Report Share Posted February 12, 2007 (edited) I used to have one and then sold it to get a normal spaced one. Worst mistake ever, especially with me being left footed.With the mod stocks u can smash down on chain stays and it takes it. Where as on my rex (135 spacing) it either broke my mech or when i took it off, it always made the chain tension loose. Im going to get another mod stock. Soon. Just run zoo hubs or any deng hubs or profiles with them though. Alot of strain goes into the back hub etc... So you want a beut of a back hub in.( The back cassettes arnt weak. I ran a zoo! hub and my mate runs a profile and nothings happened too them so far. Been and was amazing)Abdab... Edited February 12, 2007 by Mr_Python Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Davetrials Posted February 12, 2007 Report Share Posted February 12, 2007 u dont need a mech and ur choice of hub is greatly erm lessbuy one and get a king mod hub. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Monty_Kid Posted February 13, 2007 Report Share Posted February 13, 2007 may be wrong, but aren't the wheel builds potentially stronger? because the hubs don't have to be dished over the whole hub and therefore can be built stronger as they are built directly over the flanges meaning higher tensions and stronger wheels. Anyway, the vast choice of tensioners is mint for normal stock, with the gusset bachelor tensioner the mounting is on the axle and the hanger creating some support for the hanger so they don't break as easy.lewis. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tomm Posted February 13, 2007 Report Share Posted February 13, 2007 Why don't they just make some 26" frames with horizontal dropouts? That way you could use proper hubs and still have no mech. I can't see any point in having mod spacing for the sake of it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Krisboats Posted February 14, 2007 Report Share Posted February 14, 2007 (edited) Why don't they just make some 26" frames with horizontal dropouts? That way you could use proper hubs and still have no mech. I can't see any point in having mod spacing for the sake of it.I was thinking the same thing. I guess its for the use of snail cams?But i guess if you reall wanted snail cams you could make an 141mm rear dropout frame, so snail cams could be used with normal hub axles. But then i guess theres things like hitting your feet on the dropouts and needing wider bb's etc to consider.Personally though, i think an 141mm rear dropout width would be the better way to go. But then i guess this doesn't fall in with dengs global trials takeover strategy as it'd be easier for him to just make rear mod hubs. He also seems to want to re-converge mod and stock, firstly with geometries (super high bb's) and then with the mod hub spacing. I guess next year all his frames will have bashplates instead of bashrings. Edited February 14, 2007 by Krisboats Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobinJI Posted February 14, 2007 Report Share Posted February 14, 2007 I think its not really a coincidence that the frames use 116mm spacing, and came out at the same time as his new mod hubs. Meh, not really bothered.Best of both worlds is 135mm spacing and horizontals. What I got on my Iolo, and I'm pretty sure the second version of the MBK is going to have the same idea.The stuff about the wheel being stronger is because the hub doesn't have a wide cassette to accommodate gears, so the flanges are an equal distance from the center of the rim. This builds a 'zero dish' wheel, which due to the equal tension in both sides of spokes is stronger. But there are a few ways around this with 135mm hubs, Either just buy a zero dish hub, (hope Pro II, CK single speed, and other singlespeed hub), or the frame manufacturers can offset the rear end, like on the Specialized P series, where the dropouts are deliberately out of line, so when the wheel is built to fit the frame, the rim sits in the middle of the flanges even with a geared hub.Another thing about 135mm hubs, is that it allows a better chain line with the wide-ass BBs us trials riders use. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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