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Can A Helicoil Be Re-helicoiled?


joe b

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I bought a second hand t-pro off someone and the brake threads were already heli-coiled (not the best effort, i can say that) and a helicoil has threaded so, as the title says, can a helicoil be re-helicoiled?.

At first it was really stiff when i was setting the brake up when building the frame up. Also, i have had problems with setting the brake up and was thinking that they maybe a bit wonky - any thoughts?

Cheers,

Joe.

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then there wont be any steel insert anymore

I've just learned that the insert's are steel and i am running steel brake bolts. Could that be the reason the helicoil threaded, 'caus they're normally quite strong aren't they?

If you can take out the insert and drill a new, large hole, I can't see why not :)

So, if i do what your saying, i would have a new large hole would that mean i would put a normal insert in and have a bigger threaded bolt or a bigger insert and a normal threaded bolt?

Any more views/thoughts/experiences? :ermm:

Cheers,

Joe.

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You don't have to drill it out, and I wouldn't say thats the best as you risk drilling into the thread which you don't want to damage.

Just get a small pointy tool and get under the first thread of the helicoil and try and bent it outwards, then get some pliers on that bit and unscrew the helicoil, you should be able to just re-insert a new helicoil the same size without sending a tap through again.

Phil.

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B)-->

QUOTE(joe b @ Jan 31 2007, 08:40 PM)
I've just learned that the insert's are steel and i am running steel brake bolts. Could that be the reason the helicoil threaded, 'caus they're normally quite strong aren't they?

So, if i do what your saying, i would have a new large hole would that mean i would put a normal insert in and have a bigger threaded bolt or a bigger insert and a normal threaded bolt?

Any more views/thoughts/experiences? :ermm:

Cheers,

Joe.

steel threads are much stronger than the normal ones you get in a frame because aluminium is soft.

so steel should be stronger if done properly (Y)

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How the hell has it threaded!?

I would have thought that the thread for the insert would have stripped before the helicoil...

Grease them up next time, then they cant fuse together, which probably caused it to fail. (steel on steel contact)

Edited by Si-man
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How the hell has it threaded!?

I would have thought that the thread for the insert would have stripped before the helicoil...

Grease them up next time, then they cant fuse together, which probably caused it to fail. (steel on steel contact)

I haven't had a look yet, but i was just guessing as the bolt keeps turning and does not tighten the brake clamps >_< .

Cheers,

Joe.

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Is the bolt the right length.My mate put a too long bolt in and it just ripped the helicoil out as the bolt was botteming out on frame?

P.s my Gu 1 of the threads is helicoiled to m6 so just do that if u carnt fix it.

Edited by Deonn h
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You sure the helicoil is the problem?

Sounds a bit like the helicoil insert may be threaded onto your bolt just fine & spinning in the frame? How hard were you tightening it? Is there enough material left to use the next size helicoil up?

If it all turns out the worst possible way & the old helicoil has pulled through & there's no way to re-do it - Strip the bike down, Rub all the paint away with sand paper & Take it to the local Aluminum welder. He (or She) should be able to blow a pile of material into the hole for you & re-drill the mount once it's cooled. Then It can be tapped or coiled, whichever you fancy.

Best of luck though.

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You sure the helicoil is the problem?

Sounds a bit like the helicoil insert may be threaded onto your bolt just fine & spinning in the frame? How hard were you tightening it? Is there enough material left to use the next size helicoil up?

If it all turns out the worst possible way & the old helicoil has pulled through & there's no way to re-do it - Strip the bike down, Rub all the paint away with sand paper & Take it to the local Aluminum welder. He (or She) should be able to blow a pile of material into the hole for you & re-drill the mount once it's cooled. Then It can be tapped or coiled, whichever you fancy.

Best of luck though.

I've been playing football tonight so i have had much time for an inspection. However, after school tomorrow i'll have a look and probably take a few pictures so we can get to the bottom of this.

That last idea probably won't happen. £40 for the frame - it's not really worth it. I'd just get a new, second-hand frame :P .

Cheers,

Joe.

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B)-->

QUOTE(joe b @ Jan 31 2007, 08:40 PM)
So, if i do what your saying, i would have a new large hole would that mean i would put a normal insert in and have a bigger threaded bolt or a bigger insert and a normal threaded bolt?

nope

You'd have a larger hole yes, which you could then re-helicoil to an m6. I've been using 3 m5 and 1 m6 bolt on my zip for a very long time now and its fine. Only problem is you got to drill you booster a bigger hole and I couldn't be arsed finding an allen head m6 bolt so all I got is a 10mm Hexagonal head lol

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Joe do what i do when i thread frames

go to b & q or were eva and get a pack of 4 jubilea clips...think mine were £2.50 odd for 4!

Then when u f**k frame brake threads u simply:

set up brake and put bolt in as normal

then wrap the jubilea clip around seatstays and mounts...and tighten...just closes up the mounts :-(Y)

Edited by Damon W
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Joe do what i do when i thread frames

go to b & q or were eva and get a pack of 4 jubilea clips...think mine were £2.50 odd for 4!

Then when u f**k frame brake threads u simply:

set up brake and put bolt in as normal

then wrap the jubilea clip around seatstays and mounts...and tighten...just closes up the mounts :-(Y)

you serious LMAO

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