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Broken Hope Pro 2s


Matt Burrows

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theres nothing wrong with the internals in the current hubs, the splittage of the shells is most likley due to spoke stress. The broken hubs I have seen have still had perfectly functioning internals.

btw, my hope is still clicking away without a problem, though I may be getting rid of one to get somthing lighter for comps.

Pro3? :rolleyes:

Or a q/r King?

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theres nothing wrong with the internals in the current hubs, the splittage of the shells is most likley due to spoke stress. The broken hubs I have seen have still had perfectly functioning internals.

btw, my hope is still clicking away without a problem, though I may be getting rid of one to get somthing lighter for comps.

didnt you rape the internals of the prototype pro2 on that rhyl ride with iolo a loonnng time ago :P

either way, improvement is good and no doubt will prolong hub life

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I'm going from a Chris King to a Pro2 When I had a Profile 48EP's when I ride mod I much preferd that engagement to a King.

Can't wait to get a Pro2, after using Kings all the time personally I'm looking forward to getting a Hope, I've had nothing but problams with Kings e.g. Skipping, Wobbles the one I have now is good at the minute but I just want a 48EP hub.

Are they easy to service? how do you take them appart to lube them up etc?

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Quote from mr shrewsbury

"Just go to a king or the old hopes mono's. Old hope mono's never fail me, and ill always use them"

Clearly you go through them like water!

I so far have been well impressed with the hope pro 2!

I do understand ther does seem to be a weakness but like anything thats allways the case,

My hope pro 2 is just shy of a year old and i have done nothing to it!! Its got some serious mileage on it!

Its got me through everything in 2006 and even my bike has b thrown in a pool after a comps to clean it up so i cant complain about them, no matter what i have put it through its been amazing, still hasn't skipped yet either,

I think the key is with them is to run them in, Its like anything you can't just go limiting your car from cold otherwise bye bye engine,I Put my wheel on my play bike for 2 weeks which i used to ride over to a mates or something so everything could bed in!

I think this is really important to do if you can be bothered as the results i get are 100% amazing!

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thats a 10% increase in strangth on the outside of the shell. who knows what the internals of the hub look like now

i didnt mean the internals i.e. the ratchet.. i meant the internal profiling of the hubshell itself.. to produce different wall thicknesses etc

they are excatly the same no internal profile has changed

ash

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Can someone give me a Run down on how to service them? e.g. how to take the driveshell off etc? always had a King

so don't really know how you get into a pawl hub well epesep from a Profile when i ride mod, but there mega easy. Are they the same? or do you have to take all the axle out blah blah?

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what are you wanting to do? the caps just pull off and so does the freehub body (watch the seal when putting back together!)

But if your thinking you'll need to strip and service it like a king needs sometimes, then dont bother, hopes dont need touching or servicing as regually (if at all) as a king.

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Mines has buggered up on me twice now, the pulls kept snapping and I think one has just broke again now, according to the bike shop mechanic ther is some aluminum swarf inside coming from somewhere but doesnt know where :S

You grind your rim? I had a problem with swarf in my XC from grinding

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iv not broken one of mine yet.

altho i think it can sometimes be with the wheel build being tight. iv had to cut down on "tight" wheel building. i for one havent had any slipping from my pro2's that i have.

but hey, there maybe 1k out there, and 10 of that 1k have broke? fair play. out of 8 chris kings i had i snapped 4 shells personally thats a much worse "breakage" rate than pro2's. but thats all in the past.

where theres something good there is always going to be some or one niggly bad point about everything, lucky for the pro2 hubs there are far more benefits than there are bad points (Y)

Send it back to hope and then be amazed at the Warranty service. will be back to you within 3/4days!!!!

Waynio...............................

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i have heard of a few pro2 problems but that was just on the forum really.

i would not be put off of buying one in the future though (if my king were to go badly wrong...)

the pro2 is definately my next hub if something happens, but then i am hoping nothing will happen to the king.

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Thanks for all the replies. I only really wanted to know if they had changed the design, so thanks to the people with knowledge on the subject. I happen to love the hubs but was surprised when it broke considering the use it has had. I don't ride as much as I used to and haven't done anything big or harsh in a long time. To the people trying to defend the breakages I will say this. I believe the shell is one thing that should NOT break. It is the most simple part to design as there is nothing to stop you making it as thick and strong as you need. The reason Kings fail is because they are lightweight XC hubs designed for XC use!. It is also extremely dangerous if a shell does break because you lose all engagment, throwing you forward and over the bars similar to a chain snap. I am only glad I wasn't trying anything big when it went else I could have lost some teeth. I think it is unacceptable to have hub shell failures in the first year. I am only glad Hope agree and recognise the issue, and have attempted to rectify it.

I would fully understand if I had problems with the ratchet or pawls, but ironically they are in perfect condition and look brand new. This is one part of the design that seems to be spot on. I shall soon be receiving a new hub which I imagine will last a long time judging by the quality of the freehub.

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edit found one

DSC00153.jpg

as you can see, where the spokes have been tensioned to such an intense pressure, where people with powerful legs use alot of force, it simply rips the hub apart, a way to solve this problem is to run an eyeleted rim so you dont have t tension the wheel anywhere near the same pressures

Edited by ash-kennard
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I thought they whole point of an eyeleted rim was that you could get higher spoke tension without it ripping through the rim?

yes, but it also lets you build wheels with less tension with the same strength as an eyeleted rim, i think. damn you ali, ive confused myself now

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The rim end would have nothing to do with it, surely? As has been said, the eyelets are there to add a bit more beef to the rim holes to allow higher spoke tension without the nipples ripping through. If you're tensioning enough for the rim to need eyelets, then the hub (if the problem with Hopes is too high tension) isn't gonna stand much chance (Y)

Edited by N.Wood
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