Muel Posted January 21, 2012 Report Share Posted January 21, 2012 (edited) Not been on here for a while! Stopped riding trials to start climbing about 2 years ago. Currently climbing about E2/3 and f7a.. Muel (I've rode with you a few times but can't rememebr your name!) Do you climb with the Sheffield uni club much? I've just got back from El Chorro with them. I am not at the Uni I am working in Derby but know a few of them. Anyway I am about most weekends in the Peak somewhere so give me a shout if you fancy getting out.. Heyup dude! Aye I remember you. My names Sam, but no-one really calls me that. Everyone knows me as Muel. Nope never been in touch with any clubs really. I probably will this summer though. I'm at Hallam anyway so probably won't be very welcome... Any time you're out mate I'd love to tag along. Pretty sure there are buses that run fairly close. EDIT: Just replied to your email mate. Edited January 21, 2012 by Muel Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Milford Cubicle Posted February 2, 2012 Report Share Posted February 2, 2012 A lil vid of some of the things I sent in Dumbarton, would defo recommend climbing there, prime stuff x Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Muel Posted February 2, 2012 Report Share Posted February 2, 2012 Nicely done, I'm a long way off clinging to any holds that small. New climbing club just started up at a pub near me, going tonight, Johnny Dawes is doing a reading and a book signing, so should be interesting. Apparantly the climbing night at the pub will always contain either a speaker or a film. Hopefully someone will go along who lives next door to me and has a car... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Milford Cubicle Posted February 5, 2012 Report Share Posted February 5, 2012 The holds weren't really very small + on vertical and slabby problems which makes them all the nicer :)Really wanted to send another problem there called the railings and think I quite possibly would of got it on the last day I went if it wasn't for wet holds after the crux Defo on the ticklist for next time I go up... That sounds pretty kl, you seen this vid of johnny? Pretty silly moves from 4 mins onwards, I defo couldn't climb that lol x Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Muel Posted February 5, 2012 Report Share Posted February 5, 2012 The holds weren't really very small + on vertical and slabby problems which makes them all the nicer :)Really wanted to send another problem there called the railings and think I quite possibly would of got it on the last day I went if it wasn't for wet holds after the crux Defo on the ticklist for next time I go up... That sounds pretty kl, you seen this vid of johnny? Pretty silly moves from 4 mins onwards, I defo couldn't climb that lol x Still way beyond me lol. My finger stregnth is shocking. On an overhang with nice big holds I'm climbing at about 6A (got about 3/4 of the way up a 6B the other night), but on vert or a slab I struggle on 5+. Sounds good man, keep working at it! I have a possible project to work on. I heard tell of a crag near my Dad's house that did have 28 routes on it, but hasn't been mentioned in any guide book since 1990 and there are no reported climbs on UKC. Plus it's lost, and I only know the rough area of it. Anyways, we shall see, should be a fun walk even if it's too slimey and crumbly to climb on. Aye seen that before, I have the video on my computer (stole a couple of big torrents full of climbing films), It's from Stone Monkey I believe? One of my favourite films is that, definitely worth a watch. They put the date back! So he won't be there until this Thursday, but I'm planning on popping along to see what's what. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Davetrials Posted February 14, 2012 Report Share Posted February 14, 2012 Really wanna get in to Bouldering since i found out we have a climbing center here, i haven't done it for so long though, and i cant decide weather to invest in some shoes or just use my running shoes for the time being? any suggestions for cheap climbing shoes? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Muel Posted February 14, 2012 Report Share Posted February 14, 2012 Don't bother trying to do it on the cheap to be honest. My shoes were £90 but have already paid for themselves. Depends how stuck in you want to get! You can hire shoes to try it out from most walls. I tried on some £35 shoes in Decathlon recently for shits and giggles, and I couldn't stand up in them they were so painful, yet they were far baggier than my own shoes. I say hire for now, then if you decide to stick with it, go to a decent shop (not Go Outdoors or Decathlon) and get some help having them fitted properly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JD™ Posted February 14, 2012 Report Share Posted February 14, 2012 Damn you Muel and your constant selling of climbing, definitely thinking of going to my local centre this week - look like they have a really good setup at Evolution, apparently the largest featured roof in the country and that can only be good being as I always enjoyed being upside down the most about climbing. That was before years of having to punch things and my grip wasn't bollocks'd though... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Muel Posted February 14, 2012 Report Share Posted February 14, 2012 (edited) Do it JD, then one day I'll come down and explore this roof with you if you like. I needs to sample the TF Member's Sleeper Sofa. EDIT: Is it just bouldering or routes too? I ain't travelling literally a million miles for an overhung bouldering wall. Edited February 14, 2012 by Muel Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Miles Mallinson Posted February 14, 2012 Report Share Posted February 14, 2012 I was up at the Ice Factor on Sunday pretty good stuff there. The boulder room is so good there are so many problems to solve. Has anyone tried dry tooling there were a few guys doing that in the boulder room it looked mental. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Muel Posted February 14, 2012 Report Share Posted February 14, 2012 I've dry tooled indoors, did it to get used to using axes before we went to Scotland this winter. It's a right laugh! Much harder than it looks though. You can have some really impressive falls when an axe pings off a hold. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CalopS Posted February 14, 2012 Report Share Posted February 14, 2012 Ive got These and have been climbing on and off for about 2/3 years now and they have been fine. I don't really see the need to spend loads on your first pair. Its probably best to go try some on though first rather than ordering online. The sizes are sometimes different to your usual shoes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Muel Posted March 12, 2012 Report Share Posted March 12, 2012 Did my first leads this weekend! So lets play, spot the nooby f**kups in this photo: http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=193777 Hint, I'd say there were 3/4 things I did wrong on this route. It was only an S 4a though so not a lot of risk of falling... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Milford Cubicle Posted March 12, 2012 Report Share Posted March 12, 2012 Did my first leads this weekend! So lets play, spot the nooby f**kups in this photo: http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=193777 Hint, I'd say there were 3/4 things I did wrong on this route. It was only an S 4a though so not a lot of risk of falling... Gd job man, I lead sport once indoors, was effort enough hanging around to do that on a 4 or 5 or somthing don't get how people hang on to routes for that long Been getting outside a bunch myself recently which is sweet, flashed two 6a+'s and sent a 6b yesterday Also if any man's live in Birmingham/Wolverhampton area I'm helping some people build a new climbing wall in West Bromwich atm, should be opening may time? People should like the fb page http://www.facebook.com/BoulderCentral Wall's gonna be beast x Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Muel Posted March 12, 2012 Report Share Posted March 12, 2012 I tend to just lead indoors now, top roping has lost its appeal, plus the rope keeps hitting me in the face and I don't like it. You talking boulder problems there? I can't get the hang of the grades in bouldering, but the hardest thing I've done was a font 6A+. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Milford Cubicle Posted March 13, 2012 Report Share Posted March 13, 2012 Yea top ropes are in the way and always annoying, I find whenever I go to move my hand the ropes in the way lol, Yea, always talking boulder problems Only gone outside to rope twice and not that many more times indoors, boulderings defo the way foward. Yea there font grades, things are going more and more towards Font grades now, only place V grades are really used anymore I think is in America so yea I'd only bother with getting used to the font grading system. x Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Muel Posted March 13, 2012 Report Share Posted March 13, 2012 (edited) I could learn it but to be honest the bouldering world is one I'll never understand. Trad is the way forward my friend! Trad grading I can understand. What's complicated about HVS 5B? () My local bouldering wall uses V, UK sport and font grading, so the same problem can be anything from 5B to 6A+. I just go on colour. I can all of the green with pink spots, some purple with pink spots, and a couple of blacks. Edited March 13, 2012 by Muel Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Milford Cubicle Posted March 13, 2012 Report Share Posted March 13, 2012 Lol I've never got roped stuff, seems like somthing I'l move to once I can't climb hard anymore... Yea that is the confusing thing, outside more and more places and guides are going font but indoors use V. The wall I'm buildin is going to use V simply because its easier for non-climbers to understand, starts at v0 and goes up whereas font starts at 6 has letters and numbers just not that an easy thing to explain.... Properly psyched because I'm hitting raven tor tomorrow :D x Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PaRtZ Posted March 14, 2012 Report Share Posted March 14, 2012 (edited) Hint, I'd say there were 3/4 things I did wrong on this route. It was only an S 4a though so not a lot of risk of falling... My mate dedcked off a mod at stanage so you can ALWAYS fall off As for the naughty things Id be happy with that. Super anal: Use double ropes not single (checked the topo, its quite sidewaysy tbf) Short quickdraw used not long. Also with single critical as rope drage would be pretty big if you're placing gear in that photo Can't tell but I was taught the silver (free krab) should be attached to gear and the orange to rope. Then rope movements can't lift the gear out as easily.... Run out HELMET (You'd be the bane of my life in SUMC for not wearing one ) Still 2*, looks good too Ive added you as a partner btw so I can sneak a look at your logbook EDIT - my point 3, see last post here: http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=443429 Edited March 14, 2012 by PaRtZ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Muel Posted March 14, 2012 Report Share Posted March 14, 2012 My mate dedcked off a mod at stanage so you can ALWAYS fall off As for the naughty things Id be happy with that. Super anal: Use double ropes not single (checked the topo, its quite sidewaysy tbf) Short quickdraw used not long. Also with single critical as rope drage would be pretty big if you're placing gear in that photo Can't tell but I was taught the silver (free krab) should be attached to gear and the orange to rope. Then rope movements can't lift the gear out as easily.... Run out HELMET (You'd be the bane of my life in SUMC for not wearing one ) Still 2*, looks good too Ive added you as a partner btw so I can sneak a look at your logbook EDIT - my point 3, see last post here: http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=443429 I only had a single rope so ran it out instead of zig zagging. It's not as "sidewaysy" as it looks in the book IMO. Rope drag was nothingless. I've felt stronger drag indoors. But yeh, here's my list. Quickdraw was upside down with the gates facing the rockRun out over only one shit nut on that critical anchor, should have placed two if I was running it out that much. Was pretty certain it would pop if I fell on it... On those QDs, the orange is for the gear. I read the instructions. Silver has the bent gate, orange is straight, orange is loose in the sling, silver is sewn in. It's the opposite way round to most QDs, but they were brand new under £7 each, so I don't really care about the colour. As for the helmet argument, it's on the list, but at the moment I just can't afford one. I know "you can't put a price on your head", but for the tiny risk and the 2 weeks food budget, it's a risk I'm willing to take for now. It is the next thing on my list though. I didn't use an extendable as I planned to run it out to the left then back to the right, so a short one would do. That and my extendables were on the other side of my harness from my free arm. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Milford Cubicle Posted March 20, 2012 Report Share Posted March 20, 2012 From a couple of weekends ago http://vimeo.com/38799070 Really seriously need to work on my topouts, defiantly the thing holding me back most on problems which top out... x Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shamus Posted March 21, 2012 Report Share Posted March 21, 2012 (edited) Just been for a little session on an indoor wall with my old climbing buddy. Great fun, haven't been this pumped up in ages! we're gonna try get back into it. He has a nearly complete rack if gear, a dynamic rope and is qualified to instruct etc. So any tips on mats/shoes/harness. My 5.10's are too small they kill my feet after 10mins even stood still/sitting but I do like medium aggressivery styles. looking for a large but cheap mat and a middle of the road harness, just bare essentials I don't think I'll be carrying loads of gear or spending an entire day in it. Cheers then frum down ere in Devurn I tried my mates 5.10 Anasazi's on and they felt great but I don't think he'd be happy if I went out and purchased an identical pair!! His were the laced versions but the have a velcro one which I cannot seem to find a decent in depth review of. anyone aware of anything? Edited March 22, 2012 by shamus Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Muel Posted April 1, 2012 Report Share Posted April 1, 2012 Had a very scary weekend, mate of mine took a big groundfall. See pic: He had gear in, pulled up on the edge of the roof and as he put the heel hook on, kicked the gear out. My girlfriend then took that pic, and moved the bouldering mat underneath him. He then tried to carry on but ended up falling, I managed to catch him/slow his fall and push him onto the bouldering mat. He walked away from it but he was lucky! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Milford Cubicle Posted April 2, 2012 Report Share Posted April 2, 2012 (edited) Not wanting the same shoes is fair enough but If you can't find anything that fits as well I'd get them anyway. I've got some scarpa velcro's which I've had for a while and got some 5.10 arrowheads the other day, don't fit my feet as well and it makes a world of difference both in comfort and how well I can use them, using them to warm up now so I can save as much of my scarpa's rubber for hard attempts as possible But yea make sure you try your shoes on before you buy if your spending any amount of money, if you really can't bananafingers have a size caculater for a few models which should tell you how they will fit reasonably well Alpkit are good for cheap matts, or you could go second hand, moon and black diamond are both good matts I've used Looks like nasty landing for only one pad Glad he's ok, its exactly why I like low ball boulder problems above a LOT of matts Roaches is my local atm, been there a few times now, here's a lil vid of my mate on two problems there x Edited April 2, 2012 by Milford Cubicle Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Muel Posted April 2, 2012 Report Share Posted April 2, 2012 Looks like nasty landing for only one pad Glad he's ok, its exactly why I like low ball boulder problems above a LOT of matts Would have been really nasty if it wasn't for me catching him, even with the mat. His hands slipped first from that position so he was flipping backwards as he fell towards me, landed on me then I pushed him towards the mat, where he happened to land feet first next to it and roll onto it. Was very lucky to walk away really... If I hadn't tried to catch him, he would have landed on his back/shoulder area on a load of jagged rocks, and would almost definitely have not walked away. Kinda brought home the fact that protection is great, if you can get it in and it stays in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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