PaRtZ Posted April 8, 2012 Report Share Posted April 8, 2012 Had a very scary weekend, mate of mine took a big groundfall. See pic: He had gear in, pulled up on the edge of the roof and as he put the heel hook on, kicked the gear out. My girlfriend then took that pic, and moved the bouldering mat underneath him. He then tried to carry on but ended up falling, I managed to catch him/slow his fall and push him onto the bouldering mat. He walked away from it but he was lucky! Is that windgather? Which climb is it? seriously get off the grit and on the limestone, much more thuggy Good effort on the belaying though! I just got back from spain... all I can say is, UK climbings a bit poor in comparison! Had a FANTASTIC few days of climbing including: 13 pitches haha. Took 6 hours and we were running it out pretty badly! Was cool as hell though! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Muel Posted April 9, 2012 Report Share Posted April 9, 2012 (edited) Is that windgather? Which climb is it? seriously get off the grit and on the limestone, much more thuggy Good effort on the belaying though! It is indeed. I tried to second it but got scared and escaped right after the first roof. It's called South Buttress Arete Direct. Tis E1 5B. Never climbed on limestone, don't fancy it. Some day I shall get bored of having Rivelin, Stanage, Burbage, Millstone, Lawrencefield, Higgar Tor, Bamford, Froggatt, Curbar, Baslow and Black Rocks less than an hour away, but when I do, I have the limestone of Stoney Middleton to explore. (45 mins away by bus). Went to Millstone on Saturday, it was damp. Walked through to Lawrencefield, it was damp. So we built this: http://a5.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/s720x720/530023_10151484931345290_518545289_23855463_1684579999_n.jpg http://a5.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/s720x720/530871_10151484932355290_518545289_23855468_1529404763_n.jpg Edited April 9, 2012 by Muel Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shamus Posted April 10, 2012 Report Share Posted April 10, 2012 Any tips on finger strength? My technique and strength is improving faster then my fingers. I'm fairly light but deadhangs still suck. that the best way? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
will Posted May 8, 2012 Report Share Posted May 8, 2012 if you have a suitably strong door frame do pull ups on it. when you can do 7 pull ups add a kg or so, or drop a finger from each hand, so hang front 3 or back 3. in fact, see here http://www.beastmaker.co.uk/pages/training Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
will Posted May 8, 2012 Report Share Posted May 8, 2012 Also, if anyone is from West Midlands way, a new bouldering wall has opened in West Brom. www.bouldercentral.co.uk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sam Nichols Posted May 8, 2012 Report Share Posted May 8, 2012 I haven't climbed since I was a boy scout! They've opened a new climbing wall near me though so I'm going to go and check that out, not quite the same as the real McCoy but as far as I know there aren't a lot of outdoor climbs in Norwich!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NVWOCI WVS Posted May 11, 2012 Report Share Posted May 11, 2012 I just got back from spain... all I can say is, UK climbings a bit poor in comparison! This is completely true. The climbing in Spain is the bast I've ever had, anywhere in the world. I've been away from real rocks for a little while now, as I've been sailing for most of the last year, and stuck in Melbourne for the past few months. Going back out to sea again at the end of May again, which means not much real climbing for a couple of years probably, but I've been spending a little bit of time climbing indoors while I've been in the city. It's not the same though. This was me messing around at the bouldering gym last week. I'm definitely going to move to Spain when I've finished working on this boat though. Can't wait to start climbing again! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ah147 Posted August 12, 2012 Report Share Posted August 12, 2012 Had a very scary weekend, mate of mine took a big groundfall. See pic: He had gear in, pulled up on the edge of the roof and as he put the heel hook on, kicked the gear out. My girlfriend then took that pic, and moved the bouldering mat underneath him. He then tried to carry on but ended up falling, I managed to catch him/slow his fall and push him onto the bouldering mat. He walked away from it but he was lucky! This was possibly me I'd love to point out the fact that I didn't walk away from it! I had a fag and then lead it clean? Missed that off didn't you! Still owe you the beer for catching me though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Muel Posted August 12, 2012 Report Share Posted August 12, 2012 We went to the pub straight away and met wifey's parents on Eccy Road, and you paid for my drinks all night? If you want to buy me more beer though that'd be lovely, cheers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PaRtZ Posted August 12, 2012 Report Share Posted August 12, 2012 Going to Font in 2 weeks for the first time without a bike! Better be dry.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Milford Cubicle Posted August 29, 2012 Report Share Posted August 29, 2012 Any climbers/boulders on here live in Nottingham? Moving up there this Friday would be good to have people to climb with x Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Muel Posted August 29, 2012 Report Share Posted August 29, 2012 I live in Sheffield and climb regularly, and know several climbers in Notts I could probably put you in touch with. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Milford Cubicle Posted August 29, 2012 Report Share Posted August 29, 2012 I live in Sheffield and climb regularly, and know several climbers in Notts I could probably put you in touch with. Do they climb or boulder? I put climb down as I don't mind playing on a rope but I don't actually have a harness or ropes or anything lol. Moving just in time for the new depot opening in Nottingham which I'm glad about because the bouldering at the current wall isn't all that... Pics on facebook of it are looking pretty good so far I'm hoping to hit the peaks a lot this winter so if your in Sheffield we should meet up for a climb sometime x Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Muel Posted August 29, 2012 Report Share Posted August 29, 2012 All climbers unfortunately. I don't really like bouldering at all, so never ended up hanging round with any boulderists. We all tend to meet up, do a lot of sitting around and eating cake, argue about soloing (I'm strongly in favour, love it), do a couple routes, then go to the pub for large pies. I know several people that train at whatever walls exist in Nottingham though, so happy to put you in touch. Do you have facebook and that? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Milford Cubicle Posted August 30, 2012 Report Share Posted August 30, 2012 argue about soloing (I'm strongly in favour, love it), You've got bigger balls than me then I dislike topping out because it feels like I might tip back if there's crap holds on top, defo not a fan of highballs and f**k getting on anything higher than a highball without being securely tied in lol Would love to be able to have that mindset though, there's something very impressive about how controlled people like Alex Honnold can be whilst soloing. I know several people that train at whatever walls exist in Nottingham though, so happy to put you in touch. Do you have facebook and that? Yea I'l pm you it x Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Muel Posted August 30, 2012 Report Share Posted August 30, 2012 You've got bigger balls than me then I dislike topping out because it feels like I might tip back if there's crap holds on top, defo not a fan of highballs and f**k getting on anything higher than a highball without being securely tied in lol Would love to be able to have that mindset though, there's something very impressive about how controlled people like Alex Honnold can be whilst soloing. I think it's completely stupid lol, but I just love the way it feels. Whenever I'm soloing there's always a little voice saying "If you fall of here, you'll probably die", for some reason it doesn't scare me though, just makes me be more cautious. You end up carefully testing every hold before you fully weight it, so the concentration gets so strong you forget about everything else around you. I'll stop being a hippy now... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Harrison Posted August 30, 2012 Report Share Posted August 30, 2012 Muel - when I was living in Sheffield (until just under a year ago) I used to solo on warm afternoons/evenings at Stannage, and it was awesome. The buzz you get when you reach the top is amazing!! I just had 5 days down in Pembrokeshire on the sea cliffs - damn awesome when the weather is behaving... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Muel Posted August 30, 2012 Report Share Posted August 30, 2012 We recently had a soloing day at Stanage Popular, was very fun. I prefer Burbage North though, the routes tend to be shorter and slabbier. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Harrison Posted August 31, 2012 Report Share Posted August 31, 2012 Never been there, will have to check it out next time I'm in the area. Soloing is amazing though, and I know where you're coming from - it's more a mental thing than a physical one. It's like some kind of intense meditation, and then you start to screw up, and you know that you have to rein your emotions in and keep going, that panic will f'ck you. And in turn that helps out with trad climbing - I find that the fear of falling I can often block, and move past, if for example there's no gear placement, or something looks a bit iffy. I also got really into slacklining when I was climbing in Thailand. That's also a great mental workout aswell as being good for core body fitness. Quite addictive too... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Muel Posted August 31, 2012 Report Share Posted August 31, 2012 Give me a shout if you're ever around, would be cool to meet up. It's done wonders for my fear level too, I don't really mind running it out. Until I get tired, then I mind very much... I think the attraction for me is that in normal climbing, the panic relex just makes you look like a gay, when you're soloing, it becomes a real issue because it drains your energy and makes you more likely to fall, so you have no choice but to ignore it. I agree on the meditation bit. I have a mate who prefers complete silence when he's soloing, so that he can hear his boots squeaking on the rock. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PaRtZ Posted September 1, 2012 Report Share Posted September 1, 2012 (edited) I soloed an E1 last month (tbf it was unprotectable) but given that E2 is my hardest trad lead so far I was pushing it a bit (and given last time I tried to solo an E2, it didnt end well for me...) I wanted to onsight it too just so I didnt feel I was cheating myself. The climb was 5a tech grade so not too hard, but it had been unclimbed for years and the lichen was everywhere. It involved a slabby arete you have to pull onto from a block on the side. Once you're there, a load a small scoops pave the way upwards. The scoops themselves were good enough, but the lichen made everything so much sketchier. I managed it onsight and got to the top so chuffed and shaking quite a bit from the adrenaline. It feels SO good to solo hard stuff but I cant say Id actively aim to go out and do it again. EDIT: not been climbing since May Muel? tut tut Edited September 1, 2012 by PaRtZ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Muel Posted September 1, 2012 Report Share Posted September 1, 2012 (edited) I soloed an E1 last month (tbf it was unprotectable) but given that E2 is my hardest trad lead so far I was pushing it a bit (and given last time I tried to solo an E2, it didnt end well for me...) I wanted to onsight it too just so I didnt feel I was cheating myself. The climb was 5a tech grade so not too hard, but it had been unclimbed for years and the lichen was everywhere. It involved a slabby arete you have to pull onto from a block on the side. Once you're there, a load a small scoops pave the way upwards. The scoops themselves were good enough, but the lichen made everything so much sketchier. I managed it onsight and got to the top so chuffed and shaking quite a bit from the adrenaline. It feels SO good to solo hard stuff but I cant say Id actively aim to go out and do it again. EDIT: not been climbing since May Muel? tut tut Good work on the E1 dude, I've still only seconded E1 5A. Looking at leading VS 4C soon though. Been climbing loads dude, where did you get that from lol? EDIT: You been checking up on my logbook lol? Stop bothering ages ago, I don't have time to push/train much so just doing it for fun at the moment. One day I might get all seriousface again and log every repeat and 2nd but at the moment, meh. Edited September 1, 2012 by Muel Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PaRtZ Posted June 12, 2013 Report Share Posted June 12, 2013 Mega bump with some media. Im leaving Swansea uni this year and actually leaving swansea tomorrow. Ive managed to tick some classic routes here such as Pioneers of the Hypnotic Groove, my hardest sport lead at F7b: Very happy. Foxhole Cove (for UKC users) is a mint crag and THE place to go if anyone is visiting! Also sent a fantastic boulder problem at Sewer pipe, Limeslade called Taste The Rainbow Direct. Sewerpipe is a bit of a locals crag, as topos and beta is pretty hard to find. But Im glad I did find some because this was bloody awesome! The problem was originally given a whopping V9 but since downgraded to V7. Personally I think its a bit easier still, but 3 star problem is unquestionable: Finally, before TTRD I was lucky enough to get to cornwall. Any climbers in Cornwall - Im so jealous! This is my third week on cornish granite and its just immense. I only did a HVS at Sennen (zig-zag) which again was a fantastic route, but we had perfect weather and just generally had a great time. Heres a minimal compilation trailer I made using the Go-Pro of the cornwall trip: Im heading back to North Wales tomorrow so I expect to be spending alot of time in Parisellas, ticking my first V9's and V10's so watch this space. Anyone else with more climbing updates/news please do feel free to share here! Matt Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Muel Posted June 12, 2013 Report Share Posted June 12, 2013 Fuuuuuu, sounds like you're climbing well now then dude! What've you done on trad recently?I've barely climbed since September as I went back to uni and got fat. Now a whopping 210lbs and struggling to get up severe's. I started my new job last week though and starting to get back into a routine, so no more takeaways and spending every day in the pub. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hI-OOPS-CAPS Posted June 13, 2013 Report Share Posted June 13, 2013 I didn't know this thread existed. I do indoor bouldering and off the top of my head I can do 6a or b. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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