CrOcKeR Posted January 5, 2007 Report Share Posted January 5, 2007 (edited) [quote name='gianttrials' date='Jan 5 2007, 11:38 AM' post='1138838'p.s what should be said however is that it's cheaper to go rigid, unless your a pro and are given forks! Edited January 5, 2007 by CrOcKeR Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paolo Posted January 5, 2007 Report Share Posted January 5, 2007 Maybe I didn't explain it all to well, but practicly all coil sprung forks can have their travel reduced by chainging the coil to a smaller one [and firmer], that's how guys like Lenosky, Ray and Leach get their forks going... On most forks the operation can be done at home with basicly just an adjustable wrench (old z series, fox and other 'cheap' forks like the old judys and MX). I'd keep my eyes pealed for any light, cheap, sturdy and coil sprung fork in the buy/sell of your local MTB forum, it can be easier for you to get a low travel fork because I don't know how available replacement springs are in Europe. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CrOcKeR Posted January 5, 2007 Report Share Posted January 5, 2007 Maybe I didn't explain it all to well, but practicly all coil sprung forks can have their travel reduced by chainging the coil to a smaller one [and firmer], that's how guys like Lenosky, Ray and Leach get their forks going... On most forks the operation can be done at home with basicly just an adjustable wrench (old z series, fox and other 'cheap' forks like the old judys and MX). I'd keep my eyes pealed for any light, cheap, sturdy and coil sprung fork in the buy/sell of your local MTB forum, it can be easier for you to get a low travel fork because I don't know how available replacement springs are in Europe.u drop the travle of air forcks also which would be the lighter option need more work or paying someone to do it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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