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Correct Mod Chain Tension


Clarky

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How much tension is ideal on a mod bike, mine has tight spots. On some bits of the chain its slack i.e bouncing off chainstay and on some bits its nice and tense. Biff rekons you are meant to have lots of tension i am getting a new chain anyway but i was just asking how much tension is to be run on a mod?

The reason i am asking this is because once i was on a megamo mod and i had set the tension too much and it was on a kmc kool chain, i went to gap and the chain snapped. There was a 2 inch thread sticking out of the stem and it ripped my knee cap open badly and i had to be taken to hospital to have it stiched up, a round a week later my chain snapped on my stock lol since then i have a fobia of my chain snapping and since i have recently moved to mod i am a bit weary.

So any advice in the right tension of a chain would be great thankyou.

Jason

Edited by JASON CLARK
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^^ Dont totally agree. i had disintergrate the driver bearing in my profile running loads of tension, and also if your running front freewheel its not a good idea to run loads of tension you will only end up killing the freewheel or bearings, either way you will need a new one unless you have a eno. Its best i would say to run it so that it isnt unbelieveable tight but not hitting the chainstay loose. just have it so that it keeps the chain nice and striaght if you look at it from side and doesnt have a dip so theres no chain slack. but i wouldn't recomend running it really tight at all. if your running snail cams use monty ones there the best ive used a few and found them to work better than all the rest.

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reasonably tight, just make sure there some play incase you f**k up and land on the chain so you don't put shitloads of stress on your drivetrain.

Thats not to much of a proplem anymore as most frames that dont have bash plates have the chain thing under the chain stay that solves the problem, but i can see where you are coming from having your chain to tight just puts un needed tension on alot of other parts such as freewheel, freehubs and bb.

It may be worth trying to get some bmx tensions to fit and snail cams imo are wank and chain tugs wont fit. But with abit of cuting you could get bmx ones to fit and i should think they will work alot better than tugs, and run then on the inside to act as spacers aswell. just a thought (Y)

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Thats not to much of a proplem anymore as most frames that dont have bash plates have the chain thing under the chain stay that solves the problem, but i can see where you are coming from having your chain to tight just puts un needed tension on alot of other parts such as freewheel, freehubs and bb.

It may be worth trying to get some bmx tensions to fit and snail cams imo are wank and chain tugs wont fit. But with abit of cuting you could get bmx ones to fit and i should think they will work alot better than tugs, and run then on the inside to act as spacers aswell. just a thought (Y)

Even if the block's there, the chain still has to move to hit it. When it hits it, it'll still move around a bit too. Ideally, you need a total of around 5mm movement on your chain so that it covers all eventualities, and isn't damaging the freewheel shell or driver. If you're running a freewheel, a hell of a lot of tension's not great just because it moves the shell around more than if the chain's loose, when it's spinning. It also means if your fixed sprocket isn't new and is a little hooked you're basically ripping the rollers into the hooks a lot harder, not "making it better" as Biff seemed to be saying.

Higher tension feels nicer, but don't go too nuts with it.

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with my monty snail cams i tend to get it tight so the cranks don;t spin freely, and then back off one or two notches so they spin nice n easy, yet the chain is still tight, there is a diagram on biketrials.com showing exactley what you need.

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