Ewannnn Posted November 21, 2006 Report Share Posted November 21, 2006 (edited) Ive had trouble for the last few months of my brake being crap and doesnt hold one bit. So I'ts just not possible anymore to really do big stuff or land on edges.My brake set-up at the moment is a try-all rim, grinded once with a stone disc , no tar , water bleed, koxx yellow pads.I Used to have an onza hog rim which i ran vaious pads such as koxx browns, echo reds, majic pads, heatsinks, plazmatics but none have held well. Even zoo pads did not work well on them for some reasonI cant think of what else to try, i have bled my brake various times but that hasnt helped so if you can tell me any ways to improve my brake please tell me ( DONT SAY TAR ) Edited November 21, 2006 by Ewannnn Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Garland Posted November 21, 2006 Report Share Posted November 21, 2006 Have you checked for a small leak in your maggy, might just leak enough to contaminate pads?Clean the lot with soapy water. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tall_Rob Posted November 21, 2006 Report Share Posted November 21, 2006 Ok, are you ready? Here comes the advice.......1. Never, ever bleed any brake system with water be it mineral or tap. it is not good for the seals or the pistons. Water = rust and brakes not walking properely.2. How often have you been bleeding your brake? From experience you shouldn't need to be bleeding it all the time. If you are, you might have a problem somewhere along the system or you could be causing one.3. Frame flex! Are you running a booster. This can really improve some brakes as not all frames are very good at stopping flex.4. Make sure you are setting your pads up as flat to the rim as possible. Can really improve brake performance or if poorly set up, make breaking poor.5. Try-all rims are brilliant for running a grind. (Words of advice from the Tarty Boyz)Using a metal cutting disc at a 90 degree angle to the rim surface, lightly grind in one direction trying to keep the grind neat and even (big chunks missing can wear out your pads quicker or result in destroying them completely)6. Good pads for wet weather are Koxx brown and blue or MJC Majic pads. Never had a problem with them and have known many people to swear by them.7. Tar can help in the rain. Not much, but is better than nothing. Just use a small amount. Loads of tar on your rim will cause slipping.8. If all that fails, run a disc like what i'm gonna do in the new year.Now go forth and battle the weather with a brake that works.Rob Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan6061 Posted November 21, 2006 Report Share Posted November 21, 2006 Ok, are you ready? Here comes the advice.......1. Never, ever bleed any brake system with water be it mineral or tap. it is not good for the seals or the pistons. Water = rust and brakes not walking properely.Rob A lot of people think this. The insides of Maguras are plastic. - Nothing to rust! Yes, in time water can damage them, as the oil keeps them lubed up 24/7, and keeps all the dirt out.As someone else said, try cleaning all of your rim and pads with warm soapy water.Even get some rough sandpaper, and sand the pads, just to get the glaze/crap off them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
munkee Posted November 21, 2006 Report Share Posted November 21, 2006 A lot of people think this. The insides of Maguras are plastic. - Nothing to rust! Yes, in time water can damage them, as the oil keeps them lubed up 24/7, and keeps all the dirt out.As someone else said, try cleaning all of your rim and pads with warm soapy water.Even get some rough sandpaper, and sand the pads, just to get the glaze/crap off them. No they arent.. they are more than likely die cast aluminium cylinders. Water = corrosion. Not rust. Buy some rock pads, bleed your brake using WATER.. in the BATH. Set your pads up so you dont need any tpa for them to bite where you want, make sure they hit the rim square (pull the lever some as you set them up to make sure they are hitting square). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
T-BAD Posted November 21, 2006 Report Share Posted November 21, 2006 pull harder maybe? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
downhill_rob2@hotmail.com Posted November 21, 2006 Report Share Posted November 21, 2006 No they arent.. they are more than likely die cast aluminium cylinders. Water = corrosion. Not rust. Buy some rock pads, bleed your brake using WATER.. in the BATH. Set your pads up so you dont need any tpa for them to bite where you want, make sure they hit the rim square (pull the lever some as you set them up to make sure they are hitting square).No, they ARE plastic... lol the internals are...Set your brake up with no TPA so that both pads are about 2mm from the rim on each side and so the pads hit the rim square on... then try that...It may also be your grind...Mine used to do this all the time... the way i sort koxx bloxx out is..Get your grinder, and put it on the floor so that the disk is facing upwards, then get 1 pad and then "touch" the surface of the grinder disk firmly, so that the pads go "shiny" (they start to melt slightly) dont worry, your pads arent going to fook in anyway... then do the same with the other pad...Then regrind your rim with a nice fine sharp grind.. then set your brake up perfectly, then try it out.. you should see a MASSIVE diffrence in power...I need to do this to my brake at the weekend, cause mines went shit again due to dirt lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
munkee Posted November 21, 2006 Report Share Posted November 21, 2006 No, they ARE plastic... lol the internals are...Set your brake up with no TPA so that both pads are about 2mm from the rim on each side and so the pads hit the rim square on... then try that...It may also be your grind...Mine used to do this all the time... the way i sort koxx bloxx out is..Get your grinder, and put it on the floor so that the disk is facing upwards, then get 1 pad and then "touch" the surface of the grinder disk firmly, so that the pads go "shiny" (they start to melt slightly) dont worry, your pads arent going to fook in anyway... then do the same with the other pad...Then regrind your rim with a nice fine sharp grind.. then set your brake up perfectly, then try it out.. you should see a MASSIVE diffrence in power...I need to do this to my brake at the weekend, cause mines went shit again due to dirt lol maguras 03 are not plastic inside ive taken them apart. Plunger and actual piston is but the cylinders arent Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Krisboats Posted November 21, 2006 Report Share Posted November 21, 2006 (edited) Ok, are you ready? Here comes the advice.......1. Never, ever bleed any brake system with water be it mineral or tap. it is not good for the seals or the pistons. Water = rust and brakes not walking properely.No, Water + air = corrosion.If its bled well there'll be no air, hence no corrosion. As dan said it does stop the pistons being lubed up like mineral oil would but thats nothing a quick drop of 3 in one around the piston seals won't wort out.I personally reckon you just can't grind your rim properly. Its weird how all these different pads that work fine for everyone else dont work for you. I ground my rim with the angle grinder the wrong way round and ground it going counter clockwise across my rim the other day and the brake didn't honk or hold my weight at all, it had a great backwards hold, wouldn't slip at all.... but it kep looping out just on standard sized gaps.Grind your rim with the grinder tilted to the right so the grinder is at this angle:____/./___ and run round the rim in a clockwise direction, for best performance with koxx yellows sharpen the disk up before use by holding it at a very shallow angle on an old rim.... then repeat with other side of disc blade, effectively sharpening the edge of the disk into a point. Then proceed to hold the grinder at 90 degrees, press down hard and run it clockwise around the rim... for best results re-sharpen disc after grinding half way round the rim then repeat for the other side of the rim.You won't have a shit brake anymore. Edited November 21, 2006 by Krisboats Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joe b Posted November 21, 2006 Report Share Posted November 21, 2006 I put boiling kettle water all over my rim and pads. This helps to re-bed your pads into your rim, as the heat softens your pads . Hope that helps, mate...Cheers,Joe. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Radfax Posted November 21, 2006 Report Share Posted November 21, 2006 From what i heard as long as there is no air in the water bleed the inside cant rust (even though apparently its all plastic and for it to corrode you need to have air in there aswell dont you? The best performing brake i ever had was my old 33 on my ECHO, it was bled with water and it was run with monly (long) pads and a 4 bolt magura booster which had been re drilled to fit my old pure. Was the best brake i ever used, never slipped and that was with a extremely light gind aswell. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Garland Posted November 22, 2006 Report Share Posted November 22, 2006 So basically we have decided that water bled brakes are amazing and just need to lube the pistons everynow and then. Surely there is a better fluid closer to the liquidity of water but more oil based?As for the brake, Clean your rim with soapy water or de-greaser, buy a brand new grinding disc and re-grind it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ali C Posted November 22, 2006 Report Share Posted November 22, 2006 deisil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bionic Balls Posted November 22, 2006 Report Share Posted November 22, 2006 a fresh grind always seems to surprise me...i don't often do it see.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nmt_oli Posted November 22, 2006 Report Share Posted November 22, 2006 Its all about patience and set up.Ive just built up my new frame, and spent an hour setting up the rear brake, but it was worth it!I bled the brake using my favorite fluid, 2.5wt mineral shock oil. exactly the same properties as std maggie fluid, but half the viscosity. I did the bleed using a bleed kit, and think i have achived a perfect bleed, if you want the full technique fine, but ask- its too long to wright here. I will do a how to with pics if people want it!Then spent ages getting my fiddly evo mounts set up, now with zero tpa my lever doesnt quite travel far enough to be comfortable, so should settle in nicely. Pads looks as square as they can be, nice and close to rim, and no rubbing at all!I have plaz pads on a ceramic rim (the pads are now a year old, and there is measurable wear at all! they actually have more material on them than there listed as coming with from new, by 0.5mm!) and the brake is awesome. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ali C Posted November 22, 2006 Report Share Posted November 22, 2006 Its all about patience and set up.Ive just built up my new frame, and spent an hour setting up the rear brake, but it was worth it!An hour!! man, my vee takes 5 mins to do from scrach and is more powerful than any maggie!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PaRtZ Posted November 22, 2006 Report Share Posted November 22, 2006 deisildiesel? to clean or to bleed with? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
manuel Posted November 22, 2006 Report Share Posted November 22, 2006 An hour!! man, my vee takes 5 mins to do from scrach and is more powerful than any maggie!!I agree - 5mins is the max time you should be spending ... I would imagine most peoples problems come from wank grinds and just not getting the pads hitting the rims square on ....other than that you all just weeds not pulling the brake lever hard enough Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ali C Posted November 22, 2006 Report Share Posted November 22, 2006 diesel? to clean or to bleed with? bleeeeeeeed homes Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Garland Posted November 22, 2006 Report Share Posted November 22, 2006 Could you actually bleed a brake with disel and it not be dangerous? Not sure if i like the idea of petrol being in my brake to be honest. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ali C Posted November 22, 2006 Report Share Posted November 22, 2006 then dont put petrol in, put desil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Garland Posted November 22, 2006 Report Share Posted November 22, 2006 I class disel as petrol personally, is a fossil fuel. But still cant be safe. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ali C Posted November 22, 2006 Report Share Posted November 22, 2006 but they are copletley different.Anyway, it was wayne that told me, I was a little put off due to the fact disel combusts under pressure though perhaps it needs a hell of a lot more pressure a maggie can produce.I never found a problem with water and antifreeze. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Garland Posted November 22, 2006 Report Share Posted November 22, 2006 I'll do a water and anti-freeze bleed soon then, mate did his with water and its lush. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nmt_oli Posted November 22, 2006 Report Share Posted November 22, 2006 An hour!! man, my vee takes 5 mins to do from scrach and is more powerful than any maggie!!Maybe, i would still take more than 5 mins to do a complete v install however, im a perfectionist. Im quite happy to spend that long on my brake, as i know i shouldnt need to touch it again for a year. Set it up on my orange a year ago and havent touched a single bolt since- can you say that about your v brake out of interest?I cleaned, bled, and then set up my brake (on evo mounts too). I prob could have doen it quicker, but why rush when i had nothing else to do- it was raining and other people werent out riding yet! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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