New Car Time: Seat Toledos

[CurtisRider]

righty basically ive been thinking about getting a new car, and saw one of these today and fell in love with it, its basically everything i need, i had a test drive, quite liked it (seemed too nice coming from a cavalier) but i didnt really get a chance to put it through its paces...

anyway, i wanted to know if there was any reason why i shouldnt get it? its a 1.9tdi (vag engine) so there shouldnt be any engine problems, just wondered if there was any common problems with them in general?

'2000 W Reg SEAT Toledo 1.9 TDi SE

4 Doors, Manual, Saloon, Diesel, 69,500 miles, Black. ABS, Adjustable seats, Adjustable steering column/wheel, Alloy wheels, Climate Control, Computer, Cruise control, Driver airbag, Electric mirrors, Electric windows, Foglights, Front armrest, Immobiliser, Passenger airbag, Power assisted steering, Remote locking, Side airbags, Radio/CD Multichanger. Insurance Group:6, £4,195 p/x welcome. '

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so yeah, yay or nay?

cheers

Edited October 14, 2006 by pauloliver

[nickyw]

Look's nice..IMO i would have it because it look's spacy so you can fit bike's in back and stuff like that.Also look's sporty too,So yeah i would.

[Nick Dale]

Looks nice bitch. There is this thing on the internet a quide into cars i can't remember the name at the moment but if i do i shall wack a link in here for you

I'm sure some car freek on here will know anyway?

EDIT: I found it haha... www.parkers.co.uk hope that helps

Edited October 14, 2006 by Nick Dale

[CurtisRider]

EDIT: I found it haha... www.parkers.co.uk hope that helps

awesome cheers dude, few faults picked out already, with central locking and stuff...just like in my current car

[Fixed Pants™]

One problem, it's a Seat.

Only joking, looks like a nice car but if you want something that i'd get if i needed a car for trials is a Volvo 740(i think, and an M reg) SE estate, my friends dad has one, quite a beefy sound, probably drives nicely, massive boot space, and lasts for f**kin' ever. But i don't know if you want a Volvo, maybe something sports is what you want but if i was going to get a car for trials and stuff i probably would get one.

[Fish-Finger-er]

only issue is, its a saloon, not a hatchback. therefore 4 door and not 5.encroaches on bike carrying capacity no end.

in the beemer, i have to take both wheels out, and move me handles bars over to fit the bike in the boot, or take the wheels out and whack it on the (Expensive) seats. and its one bike in the boot, with both wheels, job done, no more

but in the smaller pug, cud just take the wheels out of 3 bikes, drop the larger section of the rear seats, and carry 3 people, and 3 bikes in relative comfort with room for back packs etc.

[CurtisRider]

One problem, it's a Seat.

Only joking, looks like a nice car but if you want something that i'd get if i needed a car for trials is a Volvo 740(i think, and an M reg) SE estate, my friends dad has one, quite a beefy sound, probably drives nicely, massive boot space, and lasts for f**kin' ever. But i don't know if you want a Volvo, maybe something sports is what you want but if i was going to get a car for trials and stuff i probably would get one.

i want a diesal, and i dont think the older volvo diesals are anything to get excited about i think the insurance group is quite high for a volvo too. also i really dont mind about getting my bikes in, cos i rarely ride anyway and ill still have my old cavalier on the road for another year or so as a spare car for the family and alsssssso....

only issue is, its a saloon, not a hatchback. therefore 4 door and not 5.encroaches on bike carrying capacity no end.

in the beemer, i have to take both wheels out, and move me handles bars over to fit the bike in the boot, or take the wheels out and whack it on the (Expensive) seats. and its one bike in the boot, with both wheels, job done, no more

but in the smaller pug, cud just take the wheels out of 3 bikes, drop the larger section of the rear seats, and carry 3 people, and 3 bikes in relative comfort with room for back packs etc.

strangely (well it was new to me) the rear seats fold in this even though its a saloon, thus making fitting a few bikes on their sides actually pretty easy so its kinda like a hatchback in that respect, cept you cant take out the parcel shelf and its slightly more awkward...but i can live with that i would probably just get a rear seat cover (like those dog ones that go over the seat and floor) and whack the bike on the backseats like i usually do in the cavalier cos it takes no time at all and at least the seats will be protected

cheers for the help so fay guys

[Danny]

As far as i know (which isnt much) a SEAT is pretty much a spanish built VW. It uses the same engine/running gear as VW's. This means it should be pretty dam reliable.

[CurtisRider]

As far as i know (which isnt much) a SEAT is pretty much a spanish built VW. It uses the same engine/running gear as VW's. This means it should be pretty dam reliable.

thats the impression i got and is what the sales dude said, although i always thought seat were linked to fiat

part from knowing if the cars crap or not, has anybody got any tips on what to look out for? like car stuff in general, so far i have:

tyres (all new anyway )

dents

have a dvla check on the plate-incase its been in a crash

hpi tested-no outstanding loans on the car

check for white shit around the dipstick/head (apparently a sign of a dieing head gasket?)

brake pads and discs for wear-they seemed fecking ace when i used them so hopefully no troubles

play with all the electrics and stuff, making sure all the buttons work

find out what kind of warranty i would have on it

check to see if the full service history was from a dealership, apparently if it was done at an official dealer itll be more likely to last a tad longer

ermmmm ive probably missed a few really obvious points, so any suggestions would be appreciated

he did say it was due for a service, which he would possibly include in the price, however, do i accept that and probbaly pay the full price, or try and bang him down a few quid (like to 4k) and risk it (hoping nothing needs fixing) then service it myself?

sorry for all the questions :$ just its alot of money and i want to make sure i make the right choice

[Tomm]

I'd go for at least £4k including the service I reckon. £200 off the asking price isn't very much, usually you can haggle harder than that. But don't blame me if it all goes tits up

[N.Wood]

I may be biast 'cos I'm a VAG man, but looks to me like a good buy!

Those diesel engines are meant to last forever, and as long as bits such as clutch/suspension/gearbox are all in good order it shouldn't cause you many reliability issues.

I say go for it, looks like a classy lil ride

[JTM]

Looks like its everything you want mate, but to me its just a car. Nothing more or less. Dosnt look very exciting or enjoyable to drive really? Looks comfy etc though

[CurtisRider]

I'd go for at least £4k including the service I reckon. £200 off the asking price isn't very much, usually you can haggle harder than that. But don't blame me if it all goes tits up

yeah i will haggle, thats why i wanted to know what else to look out for, wanna be on the ball and all clued up on it and be able to really push the price down, im tempted to get my sisters husband to do it for me, cos hes shithot at it i was thinking 3.5k would be acceptable? or is that just cheeky?

I may be biast 'cos I'm a VAG man, but looks to me like a good buy!

Those diesel engines are meant to last forever, and as long as bits such as clutch/suspension/gearbox are all in good order it shouldn't cause you many reliability issues.

I say go for it, looks like a classy lil ride

yeah thats really whats making it so tempting, i was initially looking at an audi a3/4 with the same engine, but they tend to be such high mileage in my budget, its not even funny, like 6 years old with 150k...ouch, my 12year old cav has done 13k the suspension seemed awesome from the test run i had, just soaked up everything, my mate sat in the back and he said the same, gearbox and cluth wise i cant fault it, the cluth is silly light and the gearbox is the best ive used (however ive only driven my cav, my mums pug, 3 micras, some 205s and a few other older crappy cars). engine wise, what can be done to it? like if i wanted to at all tune the car in the future, can i really improve it?

Looks like its everything you want mate, but to me its just a car. Nothing more or less. Dosnt look very exciting or enjoyable to drive really? Looks comfy etc though

it does tick all the boxes, except price, buying this would suck up all my reserve money, meaning if anything goes tits up, i dont have much to fall back onto thats if i pay full price though, if i can drive him down then awesome i would prefer a comfy car, and i hate small cars, it is very nice to drive, if a little too laidback, you dont have to do much to keep her on the road but id rather have that than a car i have to muscle around, but to be fair i didnt really get a chance to push it, cos well, the saleman was next to me...

[haydon_peter]

have a dvla check on the plate-incase its been in a crash

hpi tested-no outstanding loans on the car

DVLA wont do any checks for you, they will just give you the phone number for HPI.

www.carstatuscheck.com Thats the cheapest price you will get a HPI check for. Its just a HPI check without the mileage check or a parkers valuation (the mileage check is pretty shit imo, and you can get a parkers valuation for free on there web site anyway!). I wouldnt even be able to do you a cheaper deal if you called me at work

(Obviously I work in the HPI Call Centre)

If your really worried about the mechanics you could get the RAC to do a RAC Vehicle Examination, if you call to speak to someone about the examinations you will just go through to a team sat 10 feet away from me, or if your feeling nice just call HPI and ask to speak to Peter so I can transfer you to them and get commision

[Extreme_biker0]

As far as i know (which isnt much) a SEAT is pretty much a spanish built VW. It uses the same engine/running gear as VW's. This means it should be pretty dam reliable.

This is true, Seat is in fact owned by VW so they share a lot of the same parts.

Important thing to do after you buy it, heck not important, NECESSARY!, is change the cam belt. If it snaps, it does serious damage to the engine. It may cost £100, but if the service history says its been changed and it hasn't and it snaps, the car may well be a write off, so it's worth it.

This applies to all TDi engines, for more info check out one of the many TDi forums out there.

Edited October 15, 2006 by Extreme_biker0

[CurtisRider]

DVLA wont do any checks for you, they will just give you the phone number for HPI.

www.carstatuscheck.com Thats the cheapest price you will get a HPI check for. Its just a HPI check without the mileage check or a parkers valuation (the mileage check is pretty shit imo, and you can get a parkers valuation for free on there web site anyway!). I wouldnt even be able to do you a cheaper deal if you called me at work

(Obviously I work in the HPI Call Centre)

If your really worried about the mechanics you could get the RAC to do a RAC Vehicle Examination, if you call to speak to someone about the examinations you will just go through to a team sat 10 feet away from me, or if your feeling nice just call HPI and ask to speak to Peter so I can transfer you to them and get commision

ahh cheers for that im not entirely sure what it all means though, im new to this game ill take a look anyway

as for th rac check, are they really that good? ive heard rumours they kinda just take a glance and if it looks pretty, say its all good and want lots of dollar?

This is true, Seat is in fact owned by VW so they share a lot of the same parts.

Important thing to do after you buy it, heck not important, NECESSARY!, is change the cam belt. If it snaps, it does serious damage to the engine. It may cost £100, but if the service history says its been changed and it hasn't and it snaps, the car may well be a write off, so it's worth it.

This applies to all TDi engines, for more info check out one of the many TDi forums out there.

i did think about that, cos ive seen the consequences of it in a few tractors its not much money i guess compared to replacing the engine

[011001000110010101110010]

130 bhp, they aint slow. Do it

[CurtisRider]

130 bhp, they aint slow. Do it

as long as its a 110 version and has a pd thingy, yet to find that bit out, then yes itll be 130bhp otherwise it could be as low as 90

[haydon_peter]

ahh cheers for that im not entirely sure what it all means though, im new to this game ill take a look anyway

as for th rac check, are they really that good? ive heard rumours they kinda just take a glance and if it looks pretty, say its all good and want lots of dollar?

The idea behind it is, say the inspection costs £200, but in that inspection they find £400 of stuff that needs doing, you can use this as a way to haggle the price or get the work done to the car before you purchase it and in theory you will make the cost of the inspection back.

They take the vehicle on a road test and then do a mechanical inspection (it is visual, they dont take everything to bits). I dont really know too much about what they do though as im not on that team...

[Prawny Baby]

as long as its a 110 version and has a pd thingy, yet to find that bit out, then yes itll be 130bhp otherwise it could be as low as 90

gggrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

we went through this last night paul

you told me its a 110se, meaning itll be 110bhp for sure!

the only question is if its a pd engine or not, as pre PD engines came in 90 or 110 bhp, and the later pd engines came in 110 and 130bhp....

yours being a 110se will certainly be 110bhp

although if its a pd engine its more tuneable (up to around 165bhp)

if its non PD its still easily remapped up to around 140-145bhp for a cost of around £400, and would make a MASSIVE difference!

[the666ers]

Cambelts arent due till around 80k on vw's as far as i'm aware so no need to worry about that. Just check the history is complete and do the usual checks, look at every pannel for dents/scratches/rust as you'll be able to beat them down on this. Look for a clean engine bay, should be relatively pristine with 70k on the clock.

These engines go for 150k + so longetivity isnt an issue. Parts are dead cheap too if you're fairlyu handy with a spanner, just a trip down GSF should see you with most of the bits you need.

James

[Prawny Baby]

These engines go for 150k + so longetivity isnt an issue.

damn right!

my dads 1.9tdi 110se A4 is on 190k now, and its chipped to around 140bhp, and actually drives like a brand new car!

he had an mot a few months back, and the garage said the readings were SO low tehy could only just get a reading, he also said it was the best tdi he had ever seen! and its on 190k!!!!

my mums A3 1.9tdi 110 sport is also on around 150-160k last time i checked, and also runs PERFECTLY, both the tdi audis sailled through their last MOT with NO advisories at all..... so you really have NOTHING to worry about!

awesome cars

i hope the reason your not replying is because your currently buying it paul!

[Trials Punk]

only issue is, its a saloon, not a hatchback. therefore 4 door and not 5.encroaches on bike carrying capacity no end.

in the beemer, i have to take both wheels out, and move me handles bars over to fit the bike in the boot, or take the wheels out and whack it on the (Expensive) seats. and its one bike in the boot, with both wheels, job done, no more

but in the smaller pug, cud just take the wheels out of 3 bikes, drop the larger section of the rear seats, and carry 3 people, and 3 bikes in relative comfort with room for back packs etc.

Then theres me with my mini, both wheels off the bike (s). Can get two in the back.

Downhill rig at a push, bit of 5-6mm action needed though.

[CurtisRider]

you told me its a 110se, meaning itll be 110bhp for sure!

no no i said im not sure if it was but i think those numbers were mentioned-ill find out today

Cambelts arent due till around 80k on vw's as far as i'm aware so no need to worry about that. Just check the history is complete and do the usual checks, look at every pannel for dents/scratches/rust as you'll be able to beat them down on this. Look for a clean engine bay, should be relatively pristine with 70k on the clock.

These engines go for 150k + so longetivity isnt an issue. Parts are dead cheap too if you're fairlyu handy with a spanner, just a trip down GSF should see you with most of the bits you need.

James

thanks yeah im gonna try and find any excuse to knock the price down, although i cant really find anything on paper that sounds as good as this for the price. i took a look at the engine and its very clean, just a bit of dust really (he said they dont clean the engines up to show how they were when they arrived at the sales place), no signs of oil leaks and stuff from the quick look i had. i should hope it outlasts 150k ive heard of them easily doing 200k and still going smooth

i hope the reason your not replying is because your currently buying it paul!

did a bloody long day yesterday, didnt get a chance to ring its on my to do list though today

Then theres me with my mini, both wheels off the bike (s). Can get two in the back.

Downhill rig at a push, bit of 5-6mm action needed though.

ha ha, but this has cream seats, i dont want them getting oily :$ as for a dh rig, with the front wheel off we struggled to get my kona stinky in my mums pug 405 estate....twas fooking huge

[CurtisRider]

woo just rang them up, its been hpi tested and shit-he has all the paperwork to proove it, he said theres 3 months warranty on it/3000 miles whichever runs out first

its had a new front wheel bearing, does that suggest anything bad? should it have gone that soon?

also theres a towbar, i never really thought anyhting of it til now, would that possibly mean extra clutch wear?

ooo and prawny baby...its a 110se hes gonna find out about if its a pd version or not-f**k YEAH! man thats gonna piss all over my old cavalier