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26" Mods


Orgun_Donor

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So tonight after being out riding for all of an hour, my brand new Profile Mini Cassette Hub went, again, after only having it for a week. Ive Just recently got a replacement cause my other one went after 2 months, im on my 3rd hub from 24seven, but the gear ratio is really gay on it to say the least. Now im running outta things to try and resolve this weak hub issue, I've just brought a new ENO freewheel, and a new echo screw on hub, with 16th sprocket and spokes to go into my Try all rim, but god knows how long that will last.....

Other then buying the silly expensive Chris King BMX hub, anyone got any experience in this kinda area? Any suggestions?

Before i loose my rag and hunt Danny Holroyd down for have a stupid 116mm rear hub, and then stab him in the eye.... lots!

PS - i now have Ice wrapped round my wrist cause of a nice face plant!

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I've just brought a new ENO freewheel, and a new echo screw on hub, with 16th sprocket and spokes to go into my Try all rim, but god knows how long that will last.....

I reckon that should do you well, cant see any problems there (Y)

One of our customers has had one of the new ZOO freehubs for a while on his Holroyd, and not a single skip so far he says! http://tartybikes.co.uk/category.php?id=62 (there's 5 models all with the same internals - the 20" freehubs. All also available with 12-16T sprockets)

Hope that helps.

Cheers

Adam

PS: Darren, are the spokes you ordered for your existing Try-All rim? The Echo hubs are only in 32h and I believe your Try-All is 36h.. :(

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PS: Darren, are the spokes you ordered for your existing Try-All rim? The Echo hubs are only in 32h and I believe your Try-All is 36h.. :(

Donkeys!.... Ill be calling you in the morning then... Unless you can change it to a 36 hole hub magically... or the Black Onza T-master hub with 36 Holes......

EDIT - Any news on how quick i can get a wheel built might have another idea, and spend more money... :D

Edited by Orgun_Donor
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  • 4 weeks later...

Donkeys!.... Ill be calling you in the morning then... Unless you can change it to a 36 hole hub magically... or the Black Onza T-master hub with 36 Holes......

EDIT - Any news on how quick i can get a wheel built might have another idea, and spend more money... :D

hi did you put the freewheel on the cranks that came originally with the holroyd ? as i have the same cranks and want to put a freewheel on but not sure if there designed for it .

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hi did you put the freewheel on the cranks that came originally with the holroyd ? as i have the same cranks and want to put a freewheel on but not sure if there designed for it .

Hey, yea running afront eno at the moment. had to get a spacer for bb though, as it jams up without one.

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Hey, yea running afront eno at the moment. had to get a spacer for bb though, as it jams up without one.

does the freewheel screw on to the 24 seven cranks ok becouse i only have the cranks not the whole holroyd i got them of my mate who upgraded his holroyd to middleburns and was it hard to get the chainring off ?

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does the freewheel screw on to the 24 seven cranks ok becouse i only have the cranks not the whole holroyd i got them of my mate who upgraded his holroyd to middleburns and was it hard to get the chainring off ?

Yea i ruined the chin ring getting it off. But the freewheel just screwed on nice and easy, plenty of room!

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I mentioned the Idea to someone with a mod 26", might have been you, but I can't reamember. :$ . But with the profiles I'm pretty sure that it would stop the porblem if the wheel was built with radial lacing on the non-drive side, as there would be no rotational resistance from the non-drive side, it would isolate the forces to the one flange, stoping so much stress being placed accross the hub body. Just a thought.

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Well from what I've seen the crack has been apearing on the inside of the drive side flange, from where the right flange is being driven by the driveing force from the freehub, and the non-drive side flange is being held still by the spokes and the wheel on the ground/break. My point is that if you lace the non-drive side radialy, then whent the opposing forces are acting on the wheel, (pedaling and breaking/on the floor) then only the drive side flange will be handling the rotational forces, so it will not stress the hub shell in that place.

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