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New Rim Time, Should I Build It Myself?


Krisboats

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Right, its now time for me to get a new rear rim and unless a 2007 echo rear rim will fit in a t-rex with cnc'd backings and new pads and is significantly stronger than the 2006 version i shall be getting another ronnie rim.

The main question is how hard will it be for me to build it up properly and to a stong standard? My hub is a hope Xc and i already have a ronnie rim built on there at the minute with sapim spokes from tartybikes. Will it really be as simple as switch the spokes over one at a time to the new rim and just tension it up properly or is there something special that my £10 buys when i pay to get rims laced onto hubs?

If your wondering i've got a good amount of common sense and dont have any problems with any other mechanical jobs on my bike, headsets, bb's hub services are all fine.

So what do you reckon? Order a rim off tarty and do it myself or send my hub off and get them to build it missing out on 2-3 days riding?

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Just get Tarty to build it. Seriously, if you have had no experience building wheels or even seeing someone build a wheel, then i say leave it to the expert's (or expert a.k.a. The Tart :P ). You will have no problem's at all, so i'd say send a tenner and your hub/rim/spokes Tarty's way and you won't go far wrong from there :) .

Cheers,

Joe.

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B)-->

QUOTE(joe b @ Sep 21 2006, 10:46 PM)

Just get Tarty to build it. Seriously, if you have had no experience building wheels or even seeing someone build a wheel, then i say leave it to the expert's (or expert a.k.a. The Tart :P ). You will have no problem's at all, so i'd say send a tenner and your hub/rim/spokes Tarty's way and you won't go far wrong from there :) .

Cheers,

Joe.

But if i keep doing that surely i'll never learn for myself :(

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get tarty to build it.my lbs are rubbish at doing my wheels.i build my front wheel and i got adam to build mine.its flatted but still pretty straight. oh its a 06 echo on a pro 2.

if you get it built right then you'll save yourself time truing and dishing in the future.

tarty build ***!

craig

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Look online on how to late it up (typically 3 cross)

You need:

A truing stand

Spoke wrenches

A nipple driver (helps alot but dont need it)

Spoke prep

Take your spokes in a group of about 8 or so and dip the threaded ends in the spoke prep (just a little bit). Then move rub them together by placing them on a flat surace and shuffling them around threads up.

Do that with the rest so all the threads are thinly covered and dry (let them sit, not touching eachother for a few mins)

Lace up the wheel. and tighten all the spokes with the nipple driver til the nipple driver gets pushed out by the spoke coming through.

Stick it in the truing stand and just make it round. Not perfect, just go around and true the wheel and keep doing it. blah blah, After that point I gave it to my brother haha. But hopefully the first part helps.

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Have a go yourself. Follow sheldon brown for lacing and tensioning, then stand on the outermost cross of the 3x pattern for each crossing on both sides of the wheel then true it repeat the standing on routine, true it, stand true stand until the wheel remains straight after you've stood on it. Then you have a perfect wheel.

My first one wasnt amazing as it was using an old rim and spokes, but my 2nd and and 3rd were great, damn strong and after over a year of abuse each they were still pretty damn straight.

Theres no need for a truing stand, an upturned frame and zip tie does just as good a job, if you remember the wheel has to be symmetrical so you flip it over to make sure the dish is right. The only other tip would be to put a small amount of oil on each nipple once the wheel is roughly laced and tensioned to aid the spoke turning in the eyelet/rim.

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switchin the spokes over wont work as they wont be the right lengths, building wheel is easy if your patient, when building a brand new rim after its been laced and its true you jus tighten them all evenly slowly going round the wheel over and over one turn at a time and it wil turn out fine. then tension it just ride on it for a day and tighten them back up and itll be fine, it is abit weird have a few practisdes first but when youve got the hang and the patience its easy

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switchin the spokes over wont work as they wont be the right lengths, building wheel is easy if your patient, when building a brand new rim after its been laced and its true you jus tighten them all evenly slowly going round the wheel over and over one turn at a time and it wil turn out fine. then tension it just ride on it for a day and tighten them back up and itll be fine, it is abit weird have a few practisdes first but when youve got the hang and the patience its easy

More than likely going to be getting exactly the same rim as the last one i had, so the spokes should be the fine... obviously if i get an echo 07 rim it'll be different.

Would it be advisable then to send this one off to tartys then maybe practise building my own wheels up with a crappy old rim and hub? I just figured seeing as all i'm doing is fitting a new rim it might not be too hard to just switch the spokes over to matching holes on the new rim one at a time with the rims side by side and then just tension it up and true it.

If i do go through with this you might need to have a bit of a phone call/msn talk with me andy about the whole standing on the rim idea.

Edited by Krisboats
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Just to let you know... I've ordered new rims, spokes and hubs from tarty and when I asked for a wheel build they said they wouldn't be able to do it till the end of the first week in October and they're taking a week off each but one after the other so yeah... I just got them to send me the stuff and I'll get somewhere else to build it.

Just thought I'd let you know incase you sent it off and expected it done soon.

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a reeeeally easy way to do it is, get the new rim put it on top of your other rim, with the valve hole in the same place. then just undo the spokes n swop em over, real easy n simple... thts all i did with mine and its sound as a pound

also make sure you tighten the spokes up evenly, untill you come to true your wheel up (Y)

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Sometimes the spokes, After being ridden a while shouldnt be re-used.

indeed, relacing with old spokes can stress them more but simply replacing a rim is very different, and spokes will be fine.

If the ERD of the new rim is the same as the old, and if the spoke holes are offset the same way form the valve hole on each rim (ie both are 'right handed' or 'left handed'), then you can tape the new rim to the old, and swap over easily.

Line up the rims by the valve holes, and release the tension in the wheel by going round and undiong each spoke gradually and in turn, but not all at once- one turn, onto the next, and so on aorudn the wheel.

Then transfer one by one, the spokes that attach to the hub flange closest to the new rim, over to the correct positions in the new rim, do not tension.

Repeat with the other set of spokes.

Now tension.

It is a very simple process, and can be very quick.

Edited by nmt_oli
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If the ERD of the new rim is the same as the old, and if the spoke holes are offset the same way form the valve hole on each rim (ie both are 'right handed' or 'left handed'), then you can tape the new rim to the old, and swap over easily.

Line up the rims by the valve holes, and release the tension in the wheel by going round and undiong each spoke gradually and in turn, but not all at once- one turn, onto the next, and so on aorudn the wheel.

Then transfer one by one, the spokes that attach to the hub flange closest to the new rim, over to the correct positions in the new rim, do not tension.

Repeat with the other set of spokes.

Now tension.

It is a very simple process, and can be very quick.

Now this is what i like to hear :D Thanks very much for that post, i hadn't thought about the offset spoke holes having to be in the same place for each rim... i'd more than likely have over looked that and made a mess, so cheers.

Thanks for the information College Boy, in that case i'm gonna order a rim and have a go at building it myself. Seeing as the tarty guys are going to be busy and i'll want the wheel doing pretty quickly i'll have to oook for local wheelbuilders anyway, so i may as well have a go at it myself first and then if it doesnt go exactly to plan i can take it to the wheelbuilders and its going to be alright anyway.

Right then so let me get this straight, i need to:

  • Align both rims with valves in the same place and offset holes in exactly the same places on each rim
  • Tape the rims together
  • Go round the current rim slowly undoing the spokes a turn at a time the whole way round the wheel
  • When the spokes are loose and flappy without anymore tension, transfer over the spokes from the old rim to the new one, for arguments and clarity of minds sake starting nearest the valve hole and all on the flange side nearest the new rim
  • Proceed to do the same with the opposite flange side of spokes, ultimately removing the old rim from the equation and leaving the new rim on loose flappy spokes
  • Proceed to tighten up the spokes on the new rim one turn at a time for each spoke, again starting at the valve hole
  • Once an average tension is applied begin to true up the wheel
  • Stand on the spoke crossing bits andy mentioned and re-true
  • Continure to do this until the rim stays true after being stood on
  • Grind rim :lol:
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Why dont you just ziptie the spokes where they cross each other? That way they keep in the right place so all you have to do is to untension it and retension it on the new rim...

You can pretty much just lift the old rim of and set the new rim right on (Y)

You get me here? I've done it myself so I know it works...

Edit: oh my god, sorry... Didnt read the other replys.

Edited by _skj0lsvik_
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Now this is what i like to hear :D Thanks very much for that post, i hadn't thought about the offset spoke holes having to be in the same place for each rim... i'd more than likely have over looked that and made a mess, so cheers.

Thanks for the information College Boy, in that case i'm gonna order a rim and have a go at building it myself. Seeing as the tarty guys are going to be busy and i'll want the wheel doing pretty quickly i'll have to oook for local wheelbuilders anyway, so i may as well have a go at it myself first and then if it doesnt go exactly to plan i can take it to the wheelbuilders and its going to be alright anyway.

Right then so let me get this straight, i need to:

  • Align both rims with valves in the same place and offset holes in exactly the same places on each rim
  • Tape the rims together
  • Go round the current rim slowly undoing the spokes a turn at a time the whole way round the wheel
  • When the spokes are loose and flappy without anymore tension, transfer over the spokes from the old rim to the new one, for arguments and clarity of minds sake starting nearest the valve hole and all on the flange side nearest the new rim
  • Proceed to do the same with the opposite flange side of spokes, ultimately removing the old rim from the equation and leaving the new rim on loose flappy spokes
  • Proceed to tighten up the spokes on the new rim one turn at a time for each spoke, again starting at the valve hole
  • Once an average tension is applied begin to true up the wheel
  • Stand on the spoke crossing bits andy mentioned and re-true
  • Continure to do this until the rim stays true after being stood on
  • Grind rim :lol:

Yep, dead on. Don't rush it, take it easy and you should be fine.

make sure you have a half decent spoke key, a spokey or a parktool one are reccomended. Rounded nipples can be such a pain. A flat blade screw driver is also useful for starting nipples off on new spokes if you don't have a nipple driver.

Don't bother with the cable tying thing, just do it one spoke at a time and youl be fine. remeber you will be moving EVERY OTHER spoke, as you are only moving onge flange set to start with. you will end up half way through with a two rim wheel, this is good.

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It's really not difficult, you should be more than able to build it all by yourself. It just takes a bit of care.

While we're at it, can somebody explain why the Tartybikes wheelbuilds are so splendid? Or is it that it's the only place in the UK you can get a proper wheelbuild?

Something to do with the whole standing on the rim technique... or so i'm told. Andy's post explains it, and he learned from a certain person with tartish tendancies ;)

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It's really not difficult, you should be more than able to build it all by yourself. It just takes a bit of care.

While we're at it, can somebody explain why the Tartybikes wheelbuilds are so splendid? Or is it that it's the only place in the UK you can get a proper wheelbuild?

Mainly because they aer skilled and experienced at building wheels, that have been proven to be very good and very strong. they have great customer service, and offer wheel building at a price much reduced compared to a lot of LBS's, where the wheelbuilding may not be quite so good.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Well its always good to finish a thread with how its gone for you, finally got round to ordering my new rim after this one was cracked in 7 places and was now cracked along the join.

Had a go at it last night, took probably about an hour and a half from taping the rims together and swapping over spokes to putting the fully built wheel into my frame.

It was suprisingly easy, i know its not the same as a proper wheel build with new spokes and everything but if anyone was thinking about it and unsure i would definately say do it.

Any tips would be take your time, ensure you do each spoke up the same amount and dont be worried if their different tensions while your doing it. Put a drop of oil on the nipple ends (where the screwdriver slot is).... makes them twist easier and generally helps out.

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Well its always good to finish a thread with how its gone for you, finally got round to ordering my new rim after this one was cracked in 7 places and was now cracked along the join.

Had a go at it last night, took probably about an hour and a half from taping the rims together and swapping over spokes to putting the fully built wheel into my frame.

It was suprisingly easy, i know its not the same as a proper wheel build with new spokes and everything but if anyone was thinking about it and unsure i would definately say do it.

Any tips would be take your time, ensure you do each spoke up the same amount and dont be worried if their different tensions while your doing it. Put a drop of oil on the nipple ends (where the screwdriver slot is).... makes them twist easier and generally helps out.

glad to hear it went well!

its really not a big job is it :)

adam built my rear wheel when i got my new bike a few months ago, and ive not had to touch it yet, despite some huge drop gaps, and big stacks.

if i manage to kill this ronnie rim ill definately just be getting another straight away.

they cant be beaten!

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