justfuzzit Posted September 6, 2006 Report Share Posted September 6, 2006 (edited) Has anyone done it? If so how did it work? What pads do you use?(im running avid BB-7's) Edited September 6, 2006 by justfuzzit Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Savage Posted September 6, 2006 Report Share Posted September 6, 2006 (edited) Tried sanding the surface of a rotor to texture the surface years ago - did not work. If your system is set up properly and both rotor and pads are clean, thats as good as it gets, but only after bedding in. When I first use a new Hope/TryAll I spend a lot of time rolling down steep hills, dragging the brake till hot, pour water over it then repeat.Ben. Edited September 6, 2006 by Ben@Trialsman Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Up'n'away Posted September 6, 2006 Report Share Posted September 6, 2006 Im sure ive seen this topic before? There was one on NMC before, but you've tried the search so s'all gravy Basicly itll just grind the pads down and create a LOAD of dust and not work at all, I think disks work on the smoother the surface it works better?Dont hold me on that though.Also i think grinding stuff for better braking only works on alloy wheels with rubber pads?So....No it wont work.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Duck Posted September 6, 2006 Report Share Posted September 6, 2006 Dont think you searched hard enough matey! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
munkee Posted September 6, 2006 Report Share Posted September 6, 2006 I spend a lot of time rolling down steep hills, dragging the brake till hot, pour water over it then repeat.Ben. Surely that will just glaze the pads? meh.. anywyas dont bother with touching your disk they work best when smooth. Roughening the surface means you just have to bed it in all over again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich Pearson Posted September 6, 2006 Report Share Posted September 6, 2006 Interesting reading. Is someone about to tell me why no-ones made some alloy discs and rubber disc pads yet? Wouldn't they be perfect for trials?Rich Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shaun H Posted September 6, 2006 Report Share Posted September 6, 2006 Interesting reading. Is someone about to tell me why no-ones made some alloy discs and rubber disc pads yet? Wouldn't they be perfect for trials?RichHaven't plazmatic done that already? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JT! Posted September 6, 2006 Report Share Posted September 6, 2006 Haven't plazmatic done that already?Yep, and they don't work in the wet. At all. There's no need really becuase a disc could be powerful enough as it is. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ali C Posted September 6, 2006 Report Share Posted September 6, 2006 I tried some plaz pads on a steel rotor....they were the grabbiest (and loudest) pads I have used...almost uncontrolable!BUT, get a drop of water on the disk and the brake doesnt work, AT ALL! You can pull the lever as hard as poss, but its as if the brake has been disconnected.The pads dont last long either, and as spongy as brain!!any thoughts on a chrome plated rotor? proper smooth then Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Concussion Posted September 6, 2006 Report Share Posted September 6, 2006 any thoughts on a chrome plated rotor? proper smooth thenAnyone ever thought of making/using a chrome plated rim? = Grabby with Plaz/Zoo's etc? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trials_pimp Posted September 6, 2006 Report Share Posted September 6, 2006 It wont work fo the simple fact that disc pads are Ceremetalic.Unlike normal rubber pads, like Rim brakes, they are made using metal filings.They use the High co-efficiant of friction between 2 metals to crate stopping power.They have all the holes and vents to aid cooling, as metal-metal contact creates alot of heat.If you where to run on a rough suface you would loose the direct metal-metal contact and you would destroy the pads quickly Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Greetings Posted September 6, 2006 Report Share Posted September 6, 2006 (edited) did a search as well Edit: want to improve braking power? Put a cristal of rosin into a hole in the disc and push it through the caliper. Instant power, instant headache. Edited September 6, 2006 by Inur Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paolo Posted September 6, 2006 Report Share Posted September 6, 2006 I "grind" mine, about every month. With about 800 grit sand paper, the kind for wet sanding, I gently give the rotor a rub with the sand paper under water, to remove part of the exess black rotor stuff on the rotor. But I don't do it until it's squeaky clean. Same thing with my pads, I sand off a worn out layer of pad. Then wash them with rubbing alcohol, works awesome. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jaffacakes Posted September 6, 2006 Report Share Posted September 6, 2006 Anyone ever thought of making/using a chrome plated rim? = Grabby with Plaz/Zoo's etc?Ever heard of BMX? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
justfuzzit Posted September 7, 2006 Author Report Share Posted September 7, 2006 Aight, My pads finally broke in anyway. Soo yeah it works sweet. Still slips a little but not much. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brian Bleech Posted September 7, 2006 Report Share Posted September 7, 2006 Ever heard of BMX? wouldn't fit on a trials bike though It wouldn't work too well in the wet A wide ceramic rim would rule though Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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