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Dmr Tensioner


Fishy

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I knwo this sounds pretty stupid, but i have no idea how they work. I bought a second hand one, and I'm stumped on how it works.

If someone can give me a hand, just point me in the right direction on how they work it would be greatly appreciated.

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The bottom one.

I've got one on my Leeson at the moment.

Are you not able to fit it or are you unsure?

Make sure the bolt for the black shim things bolt is loose.

Take the black bit with the hole in it, take the qr off and put the qr through the black bit so that it sits just in side the frame.

Bolt the fat bolt at the bottom into the dropout hole on your frame, adjust the chain to the right tension and tighten both bolts.

This is the way i do it and it works perfect. Both up or down just place the roller above or below the chain depending on the length of your chain.

PM me if this doesn't work.

Edited by bob87
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Would it be better to run the chain above or under the tensioner?

They say that tensioning it up the way is better (like in the picture).

But that totaly depends on the chain length.

I'm running mine down at the moment because my chain is to long, but a half link/chain will sort this out.

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Right, i've tryed this, I'm running it below the rollers, I can tension it so it's nice, but after i ride the tension becomes shit, then slips to f**k.

Can anyone help me, because i've spent pretty much all day f**k about with this and my back wheel, and im at nerves end with it.

Cheers in advance.

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Right, i've tryed this, I'm running it below the rollers, I can tension it so it's nice, but after i ride the tension becomes shit, then slips to f**k.

Can anyone help me, because i've spent pretty much all day f**k about with this and my back wheel, and im at nerves end with it.

Cheers in advance.

Are there ware marks on the metal plate?

This could be the reason.

Mine does this occasionally but not that often.

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Main reason it slips is 'cos of the fact that it's basically how hard you can tighten that allen key bolt vs. how hard you can pedal. This is why sprung tensioners own un-sprung tensioners. Get the longest allen key you can, then give it a lesson in respect.

Wrapping it above the roller means you have more chain wrapped around the teeth of the sprocket, which is all good.

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This is pretty much exactly what happened to me! I think people are getting confused and thinking you have the fixed one when you said you have the sprung one... am I right? Are you running quite a small sprocket too?

Basically what I'd done was make the tension too tight and the linear spring actually bent (not great is it)! I shortened my chain so I could tension it up, this helps for 2 reasons. Firstly this will sort the skipping because more of the chain wraps round the sprocket, and secondly when you do it that way you can use the little grum screw that sits agains your mech hanger to "micro tune" the tension.

So, with your finger push the chain up to where it will be when tensioned, then align the spring so it's about 15mm below the chain, then fit the arm and jockety wheel, it should be perfect but if not you can adjust the grub screw to get it spot on!

If you want me to I can PM you a pic of the instructions, think I still have them at work and they explain it all really well.... unlike me!

Davey

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Yeah, I over-tightened the bolt, and it snapped. So I've changed back to a mech, but I have no idea how to set it up. CAn any one help?

I have another topic asking about it.

Any help is mucho appriciated

Edited by Joe Rothwell
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Main reason it slips is 'cos of the fact that it's basically how hard you can tighten that allen key bolt vs. how hard you can pedal.

nah, none of the forces put through the pedals reach the tensioner. thats why if you gap the underside of the chain goes all limpoooo. the just suck if you go to bash or just in general.

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