JT! Posted July 25, 2006 Report Share Posted July 25, 2006 First of all, snail cams. Got the fresh products ones, and i've tried and tired but i can't get any decent tension. All i think i need to do it get it on the next notch up, but no matter what i do it won't budge. The chain is quite slack at the moment, you can actually push it down from the top and it'll touch the stays. So has anyone got any ideas or techniques that i could use just to budge it onto the next notch up.Second problem i've had since i've had my profile. The chain doesn't sit over the teeth on the rear profile. So as the chain turns you can actually see the profile teeth hitting the side plate of the chain, then you get a clunk when a chain jumps into the right place. I assume it's my chainline, which is a little off, so i added some spacers before the fixed cog, as many as i possibly could. Made a little difference but still really does clunk. Then i went back to my KMC cool chain, does the same thing. Is there anyway you can space out the profile cog? So the cog sits further away from the hub. Or any other ways of solving the problem.There's loads of riders out here that use profiles but i don't hear any complaining. So there must be some way of solving it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt_Tupman Posted July 25, 2006 Report Share Posted July 25, 2006 Are you running the snail cams on the inside or out of frame? Out makes it easyer to adjust. Also having the wheel quite tight i found makes chain adjustment easyer.Narrower BB seems the easyest option. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JT! Posted July 25, 2006 Author Report Share Posted July 25, 2006 Are you running the snail cams on the inside or out of frame? Out makes it easyer to adjust. Also having the wheel quite tight i found makes chain adjustment easyer.Narrower BB seems the easyest option.I've got the echo exteranl bearing BB. That's the reason i swaped to a profile to get that BB, so i don't really want to go back to anything else.Can't run them on the outside i don't think becuase of the CNC crap on the dropouts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mat hudson Posted July 25, 2006 Report Share Posted July 25, 2006 silly question, you hat got a 9spd kool have you? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt_Tupman Posted July 25, 2006 Report Share Posted July 25, 2006 I've got the echo exteranl bearing BB. That's the reason i swaped to a profile to get that BB, so i don't really want to go back to anything else.Can't run them on the outside i don't think becuase of the CNC crap on the dropouts.oh yeah you just got a team opps! I should know I've got the same frame.I'll mesure my bb width tomorrow Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JT! Posted July 25, 2006 Author Report Share Posted July 25, 2006 silly question, you hat got a 9spd kool have you?No, 1/8". Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mat hudson Posted July 25, 2006 Report Share Posted July 25, 2006 grind el cog Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mat Smith! Posted July 25, 2006 Report Share Posted July 25, 2006 My mate uses a profile, kmc, plaz cog, t-pro bb and an echo frame, and he has no problems, no spacers needed.Although he doesn't need any tensioners.Mat Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JT! Posted July 25, 2006 Author Report Share Posted July 25, 2006 Chainline. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joshywa Posted July 25, 2006 Report Share Posted July 25, 2006 erm....... sensible anwser might be just buy a bash ring and grind your bash guard down to stop the chain rubbing...... that should push the cog more inline to the driver on the profile by say 5/6mm.might work Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JT! Posted July 25, 2006 Author Report Share Posted July 25, 2006 erm....... sensible anwser might be just buy a bash ring and grind your bash guard down to stop the chain rubbing...... that should push the cog more inline to the driver on the profile by say 5/6mm.might work The chain isn't rubbing on the bashguard.I can't move the cog across anymore becuase it'll rub on the bb. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt_Tupman Posted July 25, 2006 Report Share Posted July 25, 2006 The chain isn't rubbing on the bashguard.I can't move the cog across anymore becuase it'll rub on the bb.It sounds like it's the BB then mate Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JT! Posted July 25, 2006 Author Report Share Posted July 25, 2006 But those BB's are designed to use a fixed cog up front. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt_Tupman Posted July 25, 2006 Report Share Posted July 25, 2006 Which way is the cog mounted? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JT! Posted July 25, 2006 Author Report Share Posted July 25, 2006 Which way is the cog mounted?The right way, but do you think i could turn my profile cog around. That would make the chain line a little better. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt_Tupman Posted July 25, 2006 Report Share Posted July 25, 2006 (edited) Might do I can't remember just got rid of mine a few weeks back. Try it. Edited July 25, 2006 by Matt_Tupman Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joshywa Posted July 25, 2006 Report Share Posted July 25, 2006 (edited) The chain isn't rubbing on the bashguard.i know but by straightening the chain line at the cog it would cause it to rub on the red box i meant that placeing a spacer would push the chain towards the bash guard and cause it to rub but would straighten the chain and stop noises i think..... depends how close the cog is to the BB Edited July 25, 2006 by joshywa Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JT! Posted July 25, 2006 Author Report Share Posted July 25, 2006 Yeah, i know what you mean. But the cog is as far as it will possibly go across. The chain rubbing on the bashplate isn't an issue becuase the cog will rub on the bb shell befor then. Cheers anyway though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sponge Posted July 26, 2006 Report Share Posted July 26, 2006 Odd. I can't think of much else to do for the chainline, as everyone else has suggested most of my thoughts. I think that it might be possible to space out the cog further if you still want to try that, it's worth giving Profile Europe a call as they are highly likely to have the little bits to adjust your cog spacing.However, for the snail cams, have you tried using a plier or anything that grips to the snail cam 'neck'? This can give the extra leverage needed maybe, as I've tried it once when I had some Echo notched snail cams. You'll probably not like my idea, but is it not worth just getting smooth cams? Because adjusting my tension has never been easier with my smooth snails, as it takes a shit load of effort to budge a stubborn notched cam. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Caleb Posted July 26, 2006 Report Share Posted July 26, 2006 yeah flip the profile cog and use the spacer topuch it out more to the side you need maybe even try tightening your cranks a bit more there no way of mounting that snail cam on the outside too or using tesnioners cause thats definitely not helping either.why did you change frame to get the echo external bb btw? in my experienced there shite Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JT! Posted July 26, 2006 Author Report Share Posted July 26, 2006 I changed frame becuase the t-lite coudn't wide rims. I chaned to a profile to have the BB - which is great.Tried flipping the cog over but that isn't going work, becuase the chain interfers with the lockring. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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