A!! Posted June 28, 2006 Report Share Posted June 28, 2006 (edited) A few weeks ago i bought a GU 20" and love it but the one thing i cant seem to get rite is the chain tension. I have to keep re-adjusting the snail cams to get the chain tension rite, as after a few hops it tends to move forward causing the chain to become slack. I thought it may have been the chain stretching but ive realised that its just down to the snail cams not holding the rear wheel in place. Is there anyway of stopping this? I have tried to file the edges on the snail cams to rough the surface up so its less likely to move, but it doesnt seemed to of worked? Edited June 28, 2006 by huck_it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex.loves.boys Posted June 28, 2006 Report Share Posted June 28, 2006 A few weeks ago i bought a GU 20" and love it but the one thing i cant seem to get rite is the chain tension. I have to keep re-adjusting the snail cams to get the chain tension rite, as after a few hops it tends to move forward causing the chain to become slack. I thought it may have been the chain stretching but ive realised that its just down to the snail cams not holding the rear wheel in place. Is there anyway of stopping this? I have tried to file the edges on the snail cams to rough the surface up so its less likely to move, but it doesnt seemed to of worked? exactly the same for me:( Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BIG L Posted June 28, 2006 Report Share Posted June 28, 2006 I'm am not 100% sure this would work. But maybe you could put something like a bit of rubber residue on it that mite work. And if it doesn't sorry it was only a suggestion!Cheers BIG L Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thurston Posted June 28, 2006 Report Share Posted June 28, 2006 I just pulled my calipers out as far as they wud goThen set the wheel up straight and so i had enough tension in my chainMy wheel still moves a little, not a noticable amount but now it doesn't rub on my pads and i can still have the leverage i want buy using the tpa Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
King C Posted June 28, 2006 Report Share Posted June 28, 2006 do the axel bolts up tighter? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
A!! Posted June 28, 2006 Author Report Share Posted June 28, 2006 I have tried tightening them up tight but they still seem to slip. The GU snail cams do look realy polished an smooth which wouldnt help i guess. When im next out though i will re-set it and tighten them extra tight and see if they move then. Are the snail cams that tarty bikes stock better than the GU ones? Thanks for the help Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Egg Fried Rice Posted June 28, 2006 Report Share Posted June 28, 2006 i think fresh products do snail cams with notches in them so they wont slip thanksJohn Kan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BeNNy Posted June 28, 2006 Report Share Posted June 28, 2006 i think fresh products do snail cams with notches in them so they wont slip thanksJohn KanYeah, they do.They're pretty good. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
basher Posted June 28, 2006 Report Share Posted June 28, 2006 (edited) iv got the exact same problem with my gu and have since crimbo iv tryed smooth snail cams, freshproducts, and im currently trying monty ones.the smooth ones: scrap them mate they will never work and theres no way you will get them to. iv try fileing notches in, and it dunt work mate.freshproducts: the notches helped alot mate but i wouldn't recommend them again becaouse the notches are to big and to few, your chain is either slack or super tight. and i found my wheel still moved.monty: so far these have been the best and i would say you should get some of these. the notches are small so you can adjust the tension of the chain with more control. and my wheel hasn't moved really.i have also tryed a bmx tensioner with the two bolts that push against the end of the drop outs. i actually found these to work really well. but the only problem is you have to but something like a small piece of metal in between the drop our and the end of the bolt. you need to do this or the bolt just pushes into the drop out . but if you can sort it out so the little metal plate sits in between protecting the drop out, it means the bak wheel is really easy to set up generally and the wheel shouldn't move.hope iv helped some how, id say go for the monty snail cams there your best bet Edited June 28, 2006 by andy h Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
python_man Posted June 29, 2006 Report Share Posted June 29, 2006 the echo snail cams that come with echo hubs are a total pain in the arse 2 set up but once you have them set properly they keep the wheel exactly where u put it just make sure u tighten the bolts up totally then ur sorted :D up the pythons !!!!!! :D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
phil_williams Posted June 29, 2006 Report Share Posted June 29, 2006 it must be the gu because iv`e got exactly the same problem you like kick forward and the entire wheel moves again and again through the snail cams just slipping. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
A!! Posted June 29, 2006 Author Report Share Posted June 29, 2006 Looks like i might be buying some new monty ones then . Seems like one of the few pieces of the bike that weren't thought out that well. On my old T-pro it used the bolt tensioner style ones but i do prefer the snail cam style, awell i guess it's easily sorted though. Thanks for all the help, much appreciated Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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