Loud Eno

[Mark W]

I stretched mine a little and they were fine. Obviously if you're a cock and go mental with them you're probably going to weaken them a bit, but if you just use your head, look at what you're doing, and act accordingly, there's no problems with it.

[rupertsub2003]

ok thanks for that not that i need da advice lol but when i get mine as getting one soon i think i will leave it

[Mark W]

Wrote this post out, and unintentionally closed the window.

How did this make me feel?

Less than amused. Let's leave it at that. You'll probably also note the more 'clinical' step by step approach. Before, it just words and pictures. Gone are those happy days.

Anyway, to start again.

Quite a few people have asked me how to strip Enos and stuff.

Here's how.

Step 1. Get a convenient thing to put under it, 'specially if you're doing it on laminate. It'll save bollockings in the long run. Get a poking tool too, e.g. X-headed screwdriver or allen key tool or a spindly penis. Penis is optional. It's also easiest by now to have taken your pedal off, and the crank off the bike, obviously

Step 2. See the "<- ODNU thing? Let's assume they meant undo Using your pokery tool, undo in the direction of the arrow. If it's fresh, you'll probably need to use a hammer + pokery tool (another bonus of the screwdriver).

Step 3. The bearings have soiled themselves. This isn't nice. That thick grease was all over the pawls and springs, and was the main reason for any skips and the lack of cliiiiiiick from it. Anyway, yeah, that's for later. For now, lookit:

Step 4. Using kitchen towel stuff (or a rag, I prefer kitchen towel as you can fold it easily to clean the pawl and spring carriers later, plus I love killin' trees) to clean the lockring and this side of the bearings and shit up. Not essential, but just makes handling it a lot better, and if a job's worth doing it's worth doing to a sorta high standard so you can kinda be sure it won't f**k up later.

Step 5. The main problem, it seems, people hvae when they ask me about how to strip an Eno is this part. The "I can't get my drive shell off, and don't want to use force because it's expensive and I don't know what I'm doing." problem.

Note my stance. I'm kneeling on the crank arm. I'm using my left hand to hold it still. I then yank with the right. This isn't gentle, but that thick metal driveshell can take it Just pull the minx.

Step 6. Oh noes! A pawl has fallen. This happens once in a while. Just remember that if this was an ACS Claw, you'd have 3 pawls, 2 springs and 18 bearings implanted in your face for daring to undo the lockring and take the shell off. This is a partially cleaned driveshell. To cut a long story short, the postman thought "Hmm, this says Mark Westlake, <Marks address>. I know, I'll deliver it 2 doors down." At 6:40pm I got it. At 6:55pm I left for work. In that time, I cleaned the majority of the freewheel body, and two pawls and springs, incl. carriers. Anyway, yeah, skanky driveshell. Yuck.

Step 7. Skank.

Step 8. Kitchen towel for the w!n 'n' all that.

Step 9. As I mentioned earlier, I'd cleaned some of this up. It was really minging before. Really, really minging. Anyway, you need to wipe the body down with more towel stuff. Just go nuts with it, really clean it. The cleaner it is, the better it'll work. Yay!

Step 10. Next, you'll need to take out the pawls and springs. Here, we can see a pawl and spring out, and the hell-hole they came out of, namely the pawl and spring 'carrier'. That's chock-a-block with that grease shit again, so that'll get cleaned too in time. NOTE: There are 2 different pawl lengths, do NOT put them in in the wrong order. Just take them out one at a time and you'll be fine

Step 11. Pawl and spring before:

Step 12. Pawl and spring after:

Step 13. Someone just showed me this, and I totally forgot what I was doing here

http://media.skoopy.com/vids/vid_00976.wmv

Step 13b. Pawl carriers. Probably not their technical name, but I don't know it, so "carrier" will do. Either way, clean them. No point in having clean and lovely pawls if you're about to put them back into a shit-filled hole of doom, is there. Make it look roughly like these do:

Step 14. You now need to reinsert the pawls and springs. By far easiest is doing it springs first, e.g. how I have. You can then pin the spring down with the nose of the pawl, and then pivot the pawl so it goes into the hole properly. Easy peasy. Sorta. If you wanna go all pro (I didn't 'cos it was in the house ), you can put a drop of light oil (e.g. chain oil) in the carrier holes. Just means they move a little more freely. Alternatively, you can just give it a bit of a spray with GT-85. Horses: courses. I didn't here 'cos it was in the house, but it'll be done before it gets sent off

Step 15. Do the same for all 5 other pawls.

Step 16. You'll have noticed in the background the dirt seal, covered in grease too. Slip it off the freewheel, and bring it down the crank arm. Give it a clean! Anyway, the pawls:

Step 17. You now need to re-attach the driveshell. Press 2 or 3 pawls in with your fingers, and slide the driveshell on at an angle so it holds them down. Don't need to go mad forceful with this, just enough to get it on and hold them there.

Step 18. Next, use your poking device to push the other sticking out pawls in (e.g. the pawl here).

Step 19. Someone else just sent me this and I forgot what I was doing:

http://media.skoopy.com/vids/vid_00984.wmv

Step 19b. After you've pushed the pawls in, slide the driveshell down. Push it aaaaaaall the way down, so when you look down on the driveshell (not this angle!) you can't see the edge of the pawls and springs sticking out the side of it. Feel free to take this time to look at how awesomely well made your Eno is, and how nice the action of the engagement is. Good stuff.

Step 20. You now need to put the seal back in place. Slide it up the crank arm again, and then use your poking device/fingers to seat it. Don't spin the driveshell yet! The crank arm will stop you getting one patch of seal on. Having done the rest, spin the driveshell round. It'll bring the seal with it. With the bump fully exposed, use one hand on each side to work inwards towards the bump to seat it (think about how you put a bike tyre on). Sorted!

Step 21. "Eno Lockring" spelt backwards is "Cross threading piece of shit". They simply love the cross-thread. 14 hours and 4,000+ attempts at getting it to go on, I remembered I hadn't cleaned out the threads of the lockring and body properly. I did that, then it worked. Mark's tip: Remember to clean them.

Make sure it's all the way on

Anyway, that about covers it. Other things you can do are slightly bend the springs outwards to make them a bit more forceful. Don't really need to do it. I noticed a few springs were a bit weedy on this one so I bent the springs a little on some of them to make them work fully. All good.

Now my PMs won't just be Eno-related Although if you have other questions, PM me or ask here. I know not many people have Enos here, but it'll be easier having this here for when people ask...

I've probably forgotten something so I'll add more later.

This isn't the FAQ

/\ That's the entire guide. Just scan through the pics though and you'll see how ridiculously simple Enos are to work on. Just service it after you've had it a little while and it'll clean out all the skanky grease that oozes out from the bearings, which will in turn make it click slightly louder (if that's your bag) but will increase the awesomeness of it's engagement

[jak-89]

No, iv never had it off my bike since the day i bought it and yes it does skip from time to time, i wouldn't mind it being louder but if there's no point then im not going to bother I bough it in January so do you think they would still give me a refund (its a little bike shop in Mansfield)

Cheers

Jack Gibson!

[Mark W]

Just do what it says up there, basically That's all you need to do. The grease from the sealed bearings will have gotten onto the pawls and springs, which means it skips more often. Solve one, solve the other

[jak-89]

Ok... Im just going to clean it out then, thanks for the information and advice youve provided youve gone to alot of time and trouble on my topic

Thanks again

Jack Gibson

[Mark W]

It's all good. I'd written that guide out a while back 'cos people were asking on the forum a lot. Even got to the stage where I was sent a freewheel to strip, which is why I did that thread

So yeah, don't worry about it. For that matter, don't worry about working on the Enos - they're super easy to work on, and it's really hard to mess them up, so don't fret about it

[phil_williams]

it all depends on how new it is . if its quite new theres still grease in it. the older it gets the louder it gets

[Ride or die]

I dont understand why you would want ENO any louder? Dont you think its loud enough , or do you just want it as loud as profile?

Thanks,

>Dave<

No, iv never had it off my bike since the day i bought it and yes it does skip from time to time, i wouldn't mind it being louder but if there's no point then im not going to bother I bough it in January so do you think they would still give me a refund (its a little bike shop in Mansfield)

Cheers

Jack Gibson!

Probly not

Edited May 18, 2006 by Ride or die

[justfuzzit]

Just get rid of some of that thick gungy grease whats in there, put some lighter lube in there like WD40 will make it alot more smoother and louder.

Ben G

dont do WD40. its a cleaner/lube. ittl leake right out too. u need grease. just maybe a thinner grease.

[Mark W]

You can just use GT-85 or similar. It doesn't run out like an open bearing freewheel would let it There's a sealed bearing one side, and then a lockring the other, so it tends to sit tight pretty well.

With regards to someone who posted something further back in the thread about the grease in them - they still ooze grease from the bearings later in their life too, although not as much as they do after the first few weeks or so. It's best to just strip and service it if you notice anything untoward going on with them. It's such a simple job you may as well do it just to check it all out.

To Ride or Die - generally, if they go quiet they often tend to skip, so keeping them at a 'normal' volume is a pretty good idea. I don't care how loud my freewheels are, but I'd rather it was kept running nicely so I can tell straight away if something's starting to go to shit