chasthetrialsrider Posted May 10, 2006 Report Share Posted May 10, 2006 (edited) Ok I have had my t-pro for around a month and a half now and was wondering should I bleed my hs33's I bought the bike second hand and the person who had it before me said he hadn't ridden it in around 2 years should I bleed them or leave them as they are still powerful considering I rode a bmx with the old school u brakes before it and a mountain bike with some crap v brakes Edited May 10, 2006 by chasthetrialsrider Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alun Goch Posted May 10, 2006 Report Share Posted May 10, 2006 You shouldn't need to bleed them, no. So long as they have been left alone they go for ages without needing a bleed. Magura mineral oil doesn't absorb water like 'Dot' brake fluid, so doesn't require bleeding as often.I think it's every 5 years that magura reccomend you bleed them.Alun Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chasthetrialsrider Posted May 10, 2006 Author Report Share Posted May 10, 2006 cheers now I know not to bleed them also when I pull my front brake lever there is a moment when it locks on like I want it to but on my rear brake it is more squidgy and doesn't have a lock point obviously it will stop but not like the front one does Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alun Goch Posted May 10, 2006 Report Share Posted May 10, 2006 Are you using a booster?Alun Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chasthetrialsrider Posted May 10, 2006 Author Report Share Posted May 10, 2006 yes I have an ac booster on the back and a magura booster on the front the front one is on the top bolts and the back is on the bottom bolts Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alun Goch Posted May 10, 2006 Report Share Posted May 10, 2006 Squeeze the brake lever hard, and look to see if the cylinders flex outwards, apart from each other. If they do then the boosters to blame. Is it just on the bottom bolts? A four bolt booster will work better.If not, then there might be air in the system, and then it will require bleeding. Theres bound to be some play though, more so if you have softer pads.Alun Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smegamo_joe Posted May 10, 2006 Report Share Posted May 10, 2006 Yea, theres usually some squish, but you should be able to feel a definate stop when the pads hit the rim. The likelyhood is that you do need a reblead, as lots of air in the system can make you brake feel horrible. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chasthetrialsrider Posted May 10, 2006 Author Report Share Posted May 10, 2006 ok I have plazmatics on the back and the booster is on the bottom two bolt I will go have a squeeze Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chasthetrialsrider Posted May 10, 2006 Author Report Share Posted May 10, 2006 ok yes the cylinders are flexing out a lot so I am putting washers on them and tightning them up a lot Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alun Goch Posted May 10, 2006 Report Share Posted May 10, 2006 ok yes the cylinders are flexing out a lot so I am putting washers on them and tightning them up a lotDon't bother, that won't make a difference. If theres flex, tightening will make no difference unless they where loose. I recommend a new booster, preferably four bolt.Hope I've helped,Alun Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chasthetrialsrider Posted May 11, 2006 Author Report Share Posted May 11, 2006 ok thanks how much are four bolt booster usually Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alun Goch Posted May 11, 2006 Report Share Posted May 11, 2006 My RB booster was around £25, got mine from trialsshop.co.uk.My mate also bought one, and he has a t-pro, so it will deffinately fit Alun Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chasthetrialsrider Posted May 11, 2006 Author Report Share Posted May 11, 2006 cool but I dont think I will be ordering anything from the trials shop until they get them selves together Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
onzatprodude Posted May 11, 2006 Report Share Posted May 11, 2006 get a rb 1 off ebay brand new they cost about £15 which isnt bad also make sure your pads are close to your rim to check if theres air in the brake pull you leaver very softly and keep pulling until you feel the leaver compress the oil if the leaver has to go in quite a distance before this happens i think a rebleed is in order Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chasthetrialsrider Posted May 11, 2006 Author Report Share Posted May 11, 2006 feels like that is happening where do I get the blood Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ben From Essex Posted May 11, 2006 Report Share Posted May 11, 2006 i wouldnt use blood mate, it makes the lever feel slow and yicky (tecnical term right there ) bleed it with water, water isn't as thick as water so makes the brake feel much more solid.Ben Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thurston Posted May 12, 2006 Report Share Posted May 12, 2006 i wouldnt use blood mate, it makes the lever feel slow and yicky (tecnical term right there ) bleed it with water, water isn't as thick as water so makes the brake feel much more solid. Ben You do realize you just said water isn't as think as water But yeh bleed it with water, its much better and makes your brake feel far more responsive. Thurston Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mole man Posted May 12, 2006 Report Share Posted May 12, 2006 try bleeding the back brake it sounds like you have a lot of air in it and try a four bolt booster Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joe Aston Posted May 12, 2006 Report Share Posted May 12, 2006 I have just got an echo 4 bolt booster and my rear break is bleed with water its feels great. At the moment im running standard black blocks so i will be upgrading to some zoo or koox pads next mounth.hope this hepledjoe Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chasthetrialsrider Posted May 14, 2006 Author Report Share Posted May 14, 2006 ok thanks but I am not to keen on bleeding with water as I have heard that it can effect the brake if it leaks my brakes don't leak but you never know also I have heard that you have to bleed them more often using water than you do with maggy blood maggy blood is I think to be bleed every 5 years or something Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gavyn. Posted May 14, 2006 Report Share Posted May 14, 2006 ok thanks but I am not to keen on bleeding with water as I have heard that it can effect the brake if it leaks my brakes don't leak but you never know also I have heard that you have to bleed them more often using water than you do with maggy blood maggy blood is I think to be bleed every 5 years or somethingSorry to be blunt but most of that is bullshit, you should bleed your magura every time it feels shit basically and the oil will prlly be like dust after five years. Water may cause some damage to seals "n" Stuff but my brake has been bled with water four 4 years and i have only had one burst hose Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chasthetrialsrider Posted May 14, 2006 Author Report Share Posted May 14, 2006 sorry I'm only telling you what I have been told myself Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alun Goch Posted May 14, 2006 Report Share Posted May 14, 2006 Magura hydraulic brakes do not need to be bled often at all if you're using their Royal Blood mineral oil, because it doesn't absorb water. Can't find it, but I'm sure it was around every 5 years that they recommend you bleed their brakes, unless they leak or anything.From the magura website:Mineral oil vs. DOT brake fluidsWhen it comes to the a/m advantages of a hydraulic brake system you have to consider mainly what sort of transmission medium is used in your brake, mineral oil or DOT brake fluid.All MAGURA disc brakes have been a long time the only disc brakes which could be described as virtually maintenance free. The same information is of course also valid for the MAGURA rim brakes. With the exception of the regular pad wear check and a replacement in due time there is nothing to do for you as ALL our disc brake models feature since model year 2002 an automatic pad wear adjustment like the brake system of your car or your motorcycle.The real asset, offered over years by MAGURA alone (and in the meantime copied by a Japanese company), is that our stoppers use low viscosity MAGURA Royal Blood mineral oil as transmission medium which does not absorb water and actually lubricates the whole system.All other competitors' disc brakes use aggressive DOT brake fluid (used normally in car and motorcycle braking systems). DOT has to be changed regularly because it absorbs water, even the water vapor in the air inside your open system's brake reservoir. This has a negative effect on the brake's function. The bleeding of such brakes is then regularly necessary, but not funny at all. DOT is toxic, irritates your skin and strips the paint off your frame when you don't pay attention. Do you really want to be bothered with problems like that? Choose the tricky, troublefree and clean solution: Rely on MAGURAs, if you prefer riding to wrenching. and remember for the case of the cases that MAGURA Royal Blood is much more bike oriented and nicer stuff to deal with. MAGURA brake technology. Simple solutions for smart bikers. Save the planet! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wilko Posted May 15, 2006 Report Share Posted May 15, 2006 just bleed them when you think you need to bleed them when the levers are going down and your brakes start to slip Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Krisboats Posted May 15, 2006 Report Share Posted May 15, 2006 Right, to check if it needs bleeding the method given further up on pulling the lever slowly was kind of right but it's hard to feel whats happening in the brake if you've not got much of an idea on them like this guy comes across.Pull the lever slowly but look at the pads, if theres a delay in the pads moving while the levers being pressed you'll need a re-bleed. With a good bleed the pads should move instantly.I would also recommend bleeding with water as i'm sure most of the riders on here will say the same, it feels better and it doesn't cause any known damage to the brake. Yeah maybe after 6 years or so it'll cause a leak but by then you'll have had so much use out of it it'll have been well worth its money. I've had mine bled with water for over a year now with no problems, just make sure you flush all the oil out when you first put the water in as you could be left with some nasty oily sludge that'll make the brake feel poor again. Have a search for topics on bleeding with water, there should be plenty and it's fairluy easy and best of all..... completely free. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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