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Want To Ride More Street...new Frame


Thom

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So basically I'm getting a new frame, most likely from Iolo, and will be riding more streety style with it. But i don't know what is best 24" or 26". Is a 24" much better at riding street than a 26" or will a 26" be just as good given the right geometry. Its just that if I get a 26" I'd save alot of money as I don't need new wheels, tyres etc. I hardly ride natural, like maybe 3 times a year at most. I've never ridden a 24" before so I don't know how they ride but watching videos they seem very at home on the streets but then again videos like do the goon show that a 26" can be good too. So yeah what do you think ? Cheers

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well I ride a pure now and I'm kind of bored it plus its too long for me. I guess you can say I want to do some bunnyhops, manuals, spins etc. What would be good geometry for that kind of riding for a 26" ?

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all sounds good to me !!

but yea dont underestimate the fun of a streety 26"

but if u wanna go 24,, then go for it..

email me more, and i can help with more specific stuff,

i mean what are u wanting to do on it..? moves,? street? natural ? sk8 parks ??

(Y):D

iolo.

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Rowan rides an Echo Pure (or did?), doesn't he? Seems to be awesome at manuals and spins on that... A short 26 should be fine anyway.

Aye rowan does.

He seems to concentrate on ups more than anything now (He's ruddy good at it too.)

Get a 24" .

For street I love it, can get really tech with them.

It all comes down to your riding style, if you ride BMX aswell I'd say go for 24" as both trials and bmx with compliment each other and you'll find it helps your riding.

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1000-1010 5mm bb rise with echo pure forks, shortish flciky back end, 90mm ish stem

infact, if you wanted to try my bike out i'm sure we could arange a meet up, its a curtis 1005 or so. it hops, wallrides, spins etc like a dreeeeeeaaaaaaaaaaaaammm. its so much fun! and!! it still rocks natty!

Edited by mat hudson
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Thats the thing about bespoke frames they can be what you want to mould to your riding style.

Yes, perhaps, as long as you know what you want, not what's the "cool" geometry to have according to TF or whatever... I don't think I'd ever want a bespoke frame unless I'd played the field a load in terms of trying out other stock frames. Spending loads (if you're getting a Leeson or whatever - less if it's a Iolo I guess) and then f**king up the geometry would be a bit annoying. One of the benefits of buying an off-the-shelf bike I guess, at least you know that a test team have ridden it and found the ideal geometry for it I suppose.

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Yes, perhaps, as long as you know what you want, not what's the "cool" geometry to have according to TF or whatever... I don't think I'd ever want a bespoke frame unless I'd played the field a load in terms of trying out other stock frames. Spending loads (if you're getting a Leeson or whatever - less if it's a Iolo I guess) and then f**king up the geometry would be a bit annoying. One of the benefits of buying an off-the-shelf bike I guess, at least you know that a test team have ridden it and found the ideal geometry for it I suppose.

Aye thats a point, I was lucky or unlucky enough depends how you view it to go through alot of frames riding. So I got some kind of idea what I wanted from the bike.

Took me a while to decide what I wanted.

One good thing with leeson is that if you ride another leeson, get the name of the rider and what the frame looks like and ask clive to find the geo for that bike.

Tah dahhhh. Add one wacky colour scheme and ta daaaaa bespoke again.

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yeah good point you made but its going to be pretty hard to find a steel frame that can have a seat and v brake mounts without going custom. But your exactly right I don't want to waste my money by choosing the wrong geometry. I used to ride a norco moment and that was pretty good for bunnyhops, I think it had a 1010 WB, 400 CS, 0 BB rise. I then got an echo pure 1085 so I don't really have alot of experience with frames. Which is why I need some help with it. I think in terms of WB, 1030 sounds pretty nice not too short. CS probably 385mm, BB rise might go for 20mm, and head angle 72 or 73. Sounds like a shorter ashton justice :P. Would that be good? or would a even shorter WB be better. Basically I want to be able to bunnyhop, manual and spin like techy stuff but also incorporate some trials into as well.

Oh and Mat cheers for the offer but I'm afraid I would have to fly over to be able to try your bike, I'm from Australia.

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pashley 26ghz ride nice on street, just wath danny mac's vids to show how they ride

EDIT: ok let me read topic first - try copy the geo of the ghz 1030-1040 wb 384 stays, 0 degree bb rise, 90mm stem riser bars, keep it short and snappy

Edited by matthewholdsworth
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I am getting a 24" frame made by Iolo for bmx and going into town with.

I am gonna have the geo:

1035 wb

380 cs

+18 bb

73 ha

should be pretty sweet

If I was to make a nice 26" street bike I would use:

1040 wb

380 cs

0 bb

73 ha

pretty much like the ashton, but a bit shorter and lower to help with stability

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Thanks alot for the reply's everyone getting a pretty good idea for geometry now. I think I'm going to stick with 26". Ali C can I ask why specifically +18 bb on the 24" ?

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the smaller the wheels, the higher the bb needs to be to stop your pedals from scraping on the floor, thats why bmx have bb rise.

However, the higher the bb goes, the more unstable the bike becomes, so there is a fine line to draw between clearence and stability.

I chose 18mm as its more going to be a bmxy bike, so I am after the extra stability for manuals, spins and just going fast in general. If I were to do more trialsy stuff I would maybe go with a 20-25mm bb.

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