modrider666 Posted April 13, 2006 Report Share Posted April 13, 2006 (edited) Right basically since like 2 months ago my 04 maggie(water bled) has been feeling really solid and there was no flex whatsoever and i just thought it was my bleed and i had got a 100% no air bleed etc etc.It used to just stop about like halfway between the bar and halfway between the lever if you get me,and there was no sponge, but my brake never worked well at all and i always used to blame it on the pads.But today i discoverd something very interstering, i took my wheel off then pressed my brake and it was the brake actaully bottoming out, just stopping dead , and then the pistons just stuck out and if i pushed one of the pistons in the other one would push out and vice versa. And while it was like this if i pulled the lever there was nothing there it was just like pulling a vee brake lever with no cable if you get me.Then if i pushed both pistons in together it made a noise in the hose and the lever come back to life.so that means instead of beingable to push the pads into the rim once they have hit, they have just stopped a little after hitting the rim getting no power at all.So im gonna get a new brake i think sorry for the essayI just wanted to share that Edited April 13, 2006 by modrider666 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Endohopper Posted April 13, 2006 Report Share Posted April 13, 2006 Preventative maintenance can save painful accidents and big shop bills . Does noone else here complete at least a weekly checklist of important systems ? Might have something to do with my dad being a pilot . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Will Arnold Posted April 13, 2006 Report Share Posted April 13, 2006 mine did this a while ago. all you need to do is wind out the tpa. re-bleed it. then set up the brake without using the tpa. then your brake shouldnt bottom out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
modrider666 Posted April 13, 2006 Author Report Share Posted April 13, 2006 Basically ive got a bodged TPA on my lever and if i wind the bolt out (the tpa) the lever goes all crappy and loose so im gonna get a new lever:) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bendee Posted April 13, 2006 Report Share Posted April 13, 2006 yeah that and fact it was shit attempt at a rail gap. Pretty simple stuff this is, how can no one figure such simple things out, some people need to learn a little more about there bikes and spend alittle more time setting them up. its not like the bikes are used for strolls to the shop so they need taking care off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alan Posted April 13, 2006 Report Share Posted April 13, 2006 Basically ive got a bodged TPA on my lever and if i wind the bolt out (the tpa) the lever goes all crappy and loose so im gonna get a new lever:)When you bleed the brake the bolts should sit in its place nice and solid, Well mine does anyway........ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
modrider666 Posted April 13, 2006 Author Report Share Posted April 13, 2006 Yeah its preety gutting anyways about the whole stack,sort of a kick in the teeth i suspose,i dont really know what the best thing to do is, i suspose to do it again will be the best thing thats all i can think of really. Im just really sh*t up, dont even like looking at the rail gap anymore Just ordred a new lever as i have some new calipers anyway, and i oredered some plaz pads.Just wanna do it again i suspose and be all cool with it:) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
downhill_rob2@hotmail.com Posted April 14, 2006 Report Share Posted April 14, 2006 (edited) You dont need to buy a new lever, all you need to do is take the bleed bolt from the slave cylinder out, put a sirynge full of fluid on, then push the fluid (water in your case) into the brake when the bleed blt at the lever is still in. then once you have done this, the piston at the lever will be pushed out again, so that feelin wont be there (had to do it on my brake 2 days ago) and then give it a good bleed with no TPA what so ever then set the brake up Silyl boy for buying a new brake, your current brake isnt even fooked!Seeing as you have been riding with the TPA in, then when you have been pullin the lever, the piston in the lever has been bottomin out, thats what the solid feeling is... to solve it, do what i have said there ^^^ (with the TPA wound right out) then re-bleed, and go and ride!If you dont wanna do that, sell me the brake for a fiver, seeing as its "f**ked" Edited April 14, 2006 by terror-error Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
munkee Posted April 14, 2006 Report Share Posted April 14, 2006 yeah that and fact it was shit attempt at a rail gap. Pretty simple stuff this is, how can no one figure such simple things out, some people need to learn a little more about there bikes and spend alittle more time setting them up. its not like the bikes are used for strolls to the shop so they need taking care off. f**king hit the bell right on the end with that one. I used to think that i spent more time fixing my bike than actually riding it because i was a gay boy faggot. But then i left my bike to run and i started to get hurt constantly due to shit coming loose etc. If anyone on this forum cant build a bike from scratch you need to f**kin learn how to. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
downhill_rob2@hotmail.com Posted April 14, 2006 Report Share Posted April 14, 2006 f**king hit the bell right on the end with that one. I used to think that i spent more time fixing my bike than actually riding it because i was a gay boy faggot. But then i left my bike to run and i started to get hurt constantly due to shit coming loose etc. If anyone on this forum cant build a bike from scratch you need to f**kin learn how to.thats the quite oppisite to me...When i leave my bike, and it feels nice to ride, it NEVER fooks up, but when i do try and "tweek" my bike things start to break I guess its my crappy mechanicismist (new word? hell yeah!) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bike addict Posted April 14, 2006 Report Share Posted April 14, 2006 I had a similar problem. my brakes used to stop in after being pushed out, and like you said, if you push on e side in, the other is pushed out. All i did to solve this was undo the little bolt on the caliper its self, use the pushing process to squeeze out a wee bit of fluid out until there is no gap on either side. If it still decides to stay suck in id just get the new brake Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
downhill_rob2@hotmail.com Posted April 14, 2006 Report Share Posted April 14, 2006 I had a similar problem. my brakes used to stop in after being pushed out, and like you said, if you push on e side in, the other is pushed out. All i did to solve this was undo the little bolt on the caliper its self, use the pushing process to squeeze out a wee bit of fluid out until there is no gap on either side. If it still decides to stay suck in id just get the new brake thats an even worse attempt!YOUR BRAKE ISNT NAKERED! NOT INTILL IT SNAPS OR SUMMIT!Listen to my advise, and go and fix it, and you will save lots in the longrun! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
munkee Posted April 15, 2006 Report Share Posted April 15, 2006 (edited) I had a similar problem. my brakes used to stop in after being pushed out, and like you said, if you push on e side in, the other is pushed out. All i did to solve this was undo the little bolt on the caliper its self, use the pushing process to squeeze out a wee bit of fluid out until there is no gap on either side. If it still decides to stay suck in id just get the new brake You shouldnt be able to squeeze liquid out of your hydraulic brake. Whats happened to the younger generation seriously. Bloody hell... just read this http://www.execulink.com/~dtierney/wmc/Magura/contents.htm and learnI just had a look at the tpa section just to illustrate a point on how useful sites like this are "Very important - A strange thing happens with Magura hydraulic brakes when the TPA has been turned in too much - one of the brake pads on each wheel will refuse to retract. The more the TPA is turned in, the more this pad sticks out and will not return. Then the frustration sets in and the owner thinks that the brakes are seized." So there you go.. stop pissing around with the tpa and bleed your brake properly ( also on the site ). Edited April 15, 2006 by Spacemunkee Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
downhill_rob2@hotmail.com Posted April 15, 2006 Report Share Posted April 15, 2006 I just had a look at the tpa section just to illustrate a point on how useful sites like this are "Very important - A strange thing happens with Magura hydraulic brakes when the TPA has been turned in too much - one of the brake pads on each wheel will refuse to retract. The more the TPA is turned in, the more this pad sticks out and will not return. Then the frustration sets in and the owner thinks that the brakes are seized." So there you go.. stop pissing around with the tpa and bleed your brake properly ( also on the site ).Exactly Some people here just THINK there bikes are nakered, when they arnt.I think my bike is nakered when summit snaps or cracks n stuff like that! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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