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Custom Built Aluminium Mod Frame


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The only problem is that the forces that go through a trials frame are far greater and more varied than a track bike, so it's harder to just get one right. I know from testing I've done with Onza that it can take as many as 7+ frames before you start to get the strength close enough to sale-able, so it'd be a fairly big gamble for someone to take.

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Thats more like it Tom. Im thinking more BB rise as the mod bikes suffer ground clearance compared to Stocks. And also lower stand over hight to get a really slim frame, almost a box section appearance like the GU bikes. what do you think. as these hybrid frames arnt difficult to make and they may well break in trials use like onzaboy pointed out. may as well try something extreme in design.

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i will be making another mixing the gu typhoon and the zoo python so when thats done ill stick it on here with measurments.

here is the origonal size as well:

link to full size

tom tom

You've measured that fairly weirdly. Chainstay length is always done so it's from the centre of the BB shell to the furthest in point of the cut-out of the drop-out, and for front end length you may be better off using the 'centre front' (or centre top, can't remember name) which is from the centre of the BB to the centre-top of the headtube. Just gives you a better idea, 'cos the top-tube length doesn't really mean much simply due to the fact that seat-tubes on trials bikes tend to vary a hell of a lot in angle (backwards on Montys, forwards on Zoo's, etc.), so it's not a great measurement to use. Tube thickness and wall thickness are super important too (Y)

EDIT: One quick thing - +25mm BB is very low for a mod. Bear in mind the Zonas are +55-60, Zoos are +50 (I think?) and I believe the Montys are around +45. +25 would be hella weird. On the Slinger proto I'm trying now it's got fairly similar geometry to what you listed there (1035mm WB, 365mm CS, probably a similar headtube angle) and it's got a +55 BB and it feels almost exactly spot on. Feels like a mini-stock, which is cool...

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You've measured that fairly weirdly. Chainstay length is always done so it's from the centre of the BB shell to the furthest in point of the cut-out of the drop-out, and for front end length you may be better off using the 'centre front' (or centre top, can't remember name) which is from the centre of the BB to the centre-top of the headtube. Just gives you a better idea, 'cos the top-tube length doesn't really mean much simply due to the fact that seat-tubes on trials bikes tend to vary a hell of a lot in angle (backwards on Montys, forwards on Zoo's, etc.), so it's not a great measurement to use. Tube thickness and wall thickness are super important too (Y)

EDIT: One quick thing - +25mm BB is very low for a mod. Bear in mind the Zonas are +55-60, Zoos are +50 (I think?) and I believe the Montys are around +45. +25 would be hella weird. On the Slinger proto I'm trying now it's got fairly similar geometry to what you listed there (1035mm WB, 365mm CS, probably a similar headtube angle) and it's got a +55 BB and it feels almost exactly spot on. Feels like a mini-stock, which is cool...

cheers mark (Y) ill take that into consideration like is said its my frist attempt and thought it might be of help, i was trying to design gu front end with a pythons rear but its a working prgress, would like to see yours to work off of though :)

370 CS??? WhOoT?

Anyways, are you a bit bored on your sparetime?

i want a frame made up any way and you have to take that into consideration when you actually want one maybe?

tom tom

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another working progress but is this anything like what you want?, also if you sort of describe exactly what you want itl make it easier to create.

tom tom

it'll be hard to do the cncing like the zoo i would of thought, unless youve got shit loads of money and machines

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think u shud make something simple like the leson mod for ur first bike and build from that. as it will be easier to change a simpler bike if something is weak ect

but leeson look and feel shit, also my friends relative may be able to produce the frame and from i have herd he is a proper good metal worker! so hell no how to make things strong etc if he knows what its for im sure he did engineering work at some point.

tom tom

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Getting the correct thickness tubing, the correctly butted tubing, the block of alu for the machining, the welder, the heat-treatment and so on would be somewhat of a bitch, so you're better off going down the steel route. That'll mean no CNC'd stuff (realistically, although Iolo will pitch in about how awesome it is:p), and a probably simpler design. If you look at the 26ghz design, that's fairly similar to the looks of the Leeson mod Clive made before with the twin seat-tubes (if I remember correctly). Any roads, it'd be a lot easier to make. Also, it'd have a bit more 'give' in it too so your initial mistakes in terms of it being weaker/stronger in some areas than others won't be as bad. Just bear in mind that you won't get it right first time, basically. The T-Bone steel mod I tested for Onza went through 5 or 6 protos before it sorta got sidelined, and they all broke at various points for various reasons. The Slinger mod's on V3 now and it's sorta getting closer to completion, the Woodstock went through nearly 10 protos I think - you see where I'm going, anyway. Iolo's bike's the mk.3 as well, and trials companies constantly review models (e.g. the Python and Pitbulls now having CNC'd bits everywhere, etc.). All I'm getting as is maybe not blowing a shitload of money on your first frame by making a tricked out alu frame which will, in all honesty, probably die pretty quickly.

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I was thinking something along the lines of this using extruded alloy section with higher BB enclosing the chain and rear maguras with brake lines inside so nothing to catch on anything. what do you think.

eww that is not a very nice dessing at all in my opinion looks like a sheet of metal weres the gaps dude!

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I was thinking something along the lines of this using extruded alloy section with higher BB enclosing the chain and rear maguras with brake lines inside so nothing to catch on anything. what do you think.

it looks... errm different :P wouldnt a frame like that weigh a tonne?

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