_skj0lsvik_ Posted March 21, 2006 Author Report Share Posted March 21, 2006 aaaaaaaaaaahh, f**k!!What should I do? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brian Bleech Posted March 21, 2006 Report Share Posted March 21, 2006 please listen to people...1. GT hadley hubs ARE NOT the same as standard hadley hubs. The GT Hadley hub doesn't have 108 engagement points. GT Hadley hubs are shit! 2. shimanos are pretty crap and a GT Hadley is no better! A hope xc will offer reliable, strong engagement for ages, they are great hubs.3. A Cheaper option is a dmr revolver with acs claw, this actually has more engagement points than a hope xc. A friend (mafu26 on here) has been running this combo for a year and has had no trouble and it feels good. I personally prefer his acs claw/dmr combo over hope xc's. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dave33 Posted March 21, 2006 Report Share Posted March 21, 2006 either keep the deore or buy a hope xc/hope trial/chriskingthats the order of performance and also price should be able to buy a hope xc for about 50 pounds on here Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
_skj0lsvik_ Posted March 21, 2006 Author Report Share Posted March 21, 2006 You know what, I`m gonna buy BT components.This gonna be my drivetrain setup:BTBike crank with an ACS freewheelBTBike wheel 38mmHappy now? I`m happy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rhythm_101 Posted March 21, 2006 Report Share Posted March 21, 2006 You know what, I`m gonna buy BT components.This gonna be my drivetrain setup:BTBike crank with an ACS freewheelBTBike wheel 38mmHappy now? I`m happy i think you might be confusing things, most of the people on here are talking about an ACS on the REAR, not a front frewheel, like the BT, so you only need to buy a new rear hub and freewheel, you still can use your old cranks... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
_skj0lsvik_ Posted March 21, 2006 Author Report Share Posted March 21, 2006 i think you might be confusing things, most of the people on here are talking about an ACS on the REAR, not a front frewheel, like the BT, so you only need to buy a new rear hub and freewheel, you still can use your old cranks... Well, it must be just as good with a freewheel at front as it is at rear.. And, I use a Shitmano XT crank 22t with a shitty bashring. My total drivetrain is f**ked up. Is there a spesific ACS freewheel I should buy? Or just buy the first I can find which has 18thooths Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Connor Posted March 21, 2006 Report Share Posted March 21, 2006 Well, it must be just as good with a freewheel at front as it is at rear.. And, I use a Shitmano XT crank 22t with a shitty bashring. My total drivetrain is f**ked up. Is there a spesific ACS freewheel I should buy? Or just buy the first I can find which has 18thoothsThere is a huge diffrence between front and rear freewheel, im not actuely sure what it is but when i used to run and acs on my dmr ss hub it was fine then i replaced it with an eno and passed the acs onto my friend who runs front freewheel, within a matter of days it was falling apart and skipping like mad. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rhythm_101 Posted March 21, 2006 Report Share Posted March 21, 2006 There is a huge diffrence between front and rear freewheel, im not actuely sure what it is but when i used to run and acs on my dmr ss hub it was fine then i replaced it with an eno and passed the acs onto my friend who runs front freewheel, within a matter of days it was falling apart and skipping like mad.thats because of the lockring, the ASc claws freewheel is "supposed" to be used on the rear, as the lockring has a reversed thread to stop it untightning, so if you fit it on the front you're turning it around thus letting the locking loosen... i don't know if you get my drift or not...... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mat hudson Posted March 21, 2006 Report Share Posted March 21, 2006 plus, you're putting a more destructive force on it. on the back is better anyway more ep's Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TomN Posted March 21, 2006 Report Share Posted March 21, 2006 It's your choice really if you want it on the back or the front pro for the front is that it engages quicker and having it on the rear will make it last longer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Krisboats Posted March 21, 2006 Report Share Posted March 21, 2006 plus, you're putting a more destructive force on it. on the back is better anyway more ep'sIt's your choice really if you want it on the back or the front pro for the front is that it engages quicker and having it on the rear will make it last longer.Two contradictory statements, how can it have more engagement points on the back? Thats utterly stupid, you don't honestly think the internals of the freehub change when you swap it between the back and the front?Right, _skj0lsvik_ LISTEN to what EVERYONE IS SAYING!!!!Whats the point in asking people if all your going to do throughout the thread is be stubborn and do the opposite?If your going for a hub get a hope xc, cheap and reliable. What do you want more engagement points for anyway? If your going to get a freewheel get a single speed rear hub, THE FREEWHEEL WILL GO ON THE HUB so there's no need to by new cranks and a fixed rear hub and new rim. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mat hudson Posted March 22, 2006 Report Share Posted March 22, 2006 you f**kin g-spoon, of course you get more ep on the back!!! because your front ring will have more teeth than the freehwheel so will move it further. thats why with a king you end up with somthing like 90 ep's. i cant explaine it well but its true Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shovel Posted March 22, 2006 Report Share Posted March 22, 2006 for a singlespeed mtb hub, either a chris king rear singlespeed hub or hope are now making a singlespeed rear hub toohope is obviously a bit cheaper, but king is prob a bit better and it comes standard with heavy duty axle upgrade which is good if you're heavy on your rear wheel Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScotchDave Posted March 22, 2006 Report Share Posted March 22, 2006 I dont know where the stupid idea of putting a shimano freehub body on it, lol, well.. So you guys honestly mean that I should not buy the Hadley? The only reason to why I want it is the engagement points. It may sound silly...I feel like the XC doesnt gonna help me much, if you get me. The only reason to why I want to change it is because of its weight and points. The XC will help me with the weight, but not the points. Only 4more points, it will not reduce that much slack I guess..What should I do, buy the second-hand XC or buy Hadley and a BMF rim or buy a new crank, freewheel, DX32 and a new fixed hub? I`m in deep problems I`ve tried to get a second-hand King too, but no-one wants to sell theirs.. Not that wierd relly.I might be convinced to part with my king hub, it's in good conditon, has been serviced regularly has a HD axle and fun bolts etc. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark W Posted March 22, 2006 Report Share Posted March 22, 2006 I think what people forget is that yes, if you run a rear freewheel you 'get more engagements', but you don't. All it means is that when you apply pressure, it doesn't move as far. That's it, basically. It's still 36 clicks, but you only have to move the crank 8.5° or so instead of 10° (comparing an ACS on the back at 22:18 and an ACS on the front) to get to the engagement point. That's it, really. Not a great deal of difference, even if when you go "But look, it has 44 compared to 36 eps". So it's no big deal. Anyway, if you ran a DMR hub on the rear with an ACS on it, why would you need to buy a new crankset? If you've been running a freehub on the back now anyway, you've got a chainring up front, which is all you'd need if you ran rear freewheel? It's a cheap and easy solution to your problem. ACS Claws are pretty cheap, and the hub itself is fairly cheap but lasts a long time. That way, you just need to buy the hub + freewheel + maybe some new spokes if your's are the wrong length. WAY better than a 108 engagement point hub which is going to explode and kill you, don't you think? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Krisboats Posted March 22, 2006 Report Share Posted March 22, 2006 you f**kin g-spoon, of course you get more ep on the back!!! because your front ring will have more teeth than the freehwheel so will move it further. thats why with a king you end up with somthing like 90 ep's. i cant explaine it well but its true So am i right in thinking that the engagement points are inside the freewheel? Yes, i am. So it doesn't matter where abouts the damn thing is on the bike it will always have the same amount of engagement points, because you measure them by the amount of grooves in the freewheel/freehub ratchet area and times them by the amount of pawls that are engaging. Not how many pawls are touching the ratchet but how many sets of pawls are touching it. For example, my hope xc has 24 ratchet grooves if i remember rightly and has 3 pawls that all engage at the same time. therefore 24 x 1 set = 24 engagements. The new hope trials hub has the same number of grooves in the ratchet but has 4 pawls that are offset so two are engaged while the other two aren't so 24 x 2 = 48 engagement points. What you mean is that you're going to have more clicks per wheel rotation or crank rotation or something, but as mark and i have both said the actual number of engagement points doesn't change. Because it's never going to happen. Still a g-spoon now am i? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mat hudson Posted March 22, 2006 Report Share Posted March 22, 2006 dude, you do get more ep on the back. you silly billy g-spoon. i'm not stuopid i know how to count. i also know how hubs and freewheels work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark W Posted March 23, 2006 Report Share Posted March 23, 2006 The whole point though is that you don't really ever get more engagement points, it's just that when you pedal to get power you hit the engagement point faster. It's more to do with the angle your cranks go, basically, so it's not like you actually have more engagements. Saying 44 over 36 or whatever sounds good, but in reality you're talking about a 1.5° difference in when it engages, which is bugger all, really. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Krisboats Posted March 23, 2006 Report Share Posted March 23, 2006 There, marks got it in one. It doesn't have more engagement points it spins round faster.Engagement points are points inside the hub where the pawls engage. If you knew how hubs work then you would know you don't atually get more engagement points at all, it just spins round faster in relastion to your cranks so feels like theres more. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
_skj0lsvik_ Posted March 23, 2006 Author Report Share Posted March 23, 2006 Ok, I`m going to buy a Surly ss hub and run a ACS freewheel on it. I`m gonna use a BT crankset on it, should I use a 18t cog at front and a 16t freewheel back. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CurtisRider Posted March 23, 2006 Report Share Posted March 23, 2006 Ok, I`m going to buy a Surly ss hub and run a ACS freewheel on it. I`m gonna use a BT crankset on it, should I use a 18t cog at front and a 16t freewheel back.just a quick pointer-when you realise you want an eno (it'll happen ) on the back you wont be able to fit one cos they only come in 18t-spose you could run it upfront with a fixed 16 at the back though...claws are fine, bloody good for the price, but with that build quality and nasty sound they make-i never felt comfortable puttng alot of pressure on mine-the eno however-trust it more than any other freewheel/hub out there Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
_skj0lsvik_ Posted March 23, 2006 Author Report Share Posted March 23, 2006 Yeah, I know. I cant afford one now anyway... But is 18t at front and 16t at rear a good setup? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark W Posted March 23, 2006 Report Share Posted March 23, 2006 Paul, they don't only come in 18t. They even come up to 21 or 22t... Tensiles for the rear come in 16t too (at least I think they will?) so when they're out it'll be a bit more than an ACS and a bit less than an Eno, a.k.a. 'peachy'... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Caleb Posted March 23, 2006 Report Share Posted March 23, 2006 I dont understand why everyonnes telling him to get an xc.They will break !he lives in norway, postage back to hope then the £35 is tupid for him to pay.id go for a tensile freewheel on a dmr revolver rear hub and new spokes.then you can keep the rest, gonna cost max bout £80 and youll have mint engagement and a very reliable set up ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mat hudson Posted March 23, 2006 Report Share Posted March 23, 2006 i agree!! acs/anything on a dmr. cant go mcfuncking wrong. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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