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U-brakes!


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Hey, can anyone help me? >_< Ive been trying to set up some stupid u-brakes but cannot for the love of god get them to work properly! i.e they dont actually lock up which i want them to, they just gradually slow you down but it takes ages. but the cable is pretty tight all the way through :blink:

Does anyone know how to set these up properly? If so can you give me a few tips?

Ta, Rich

Edited by richminiturbo
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like he'd actually use a U brake for trials you idiots, its obvious that its for a bmx, and no v brakes arent just a slowing down brake nor are maggies a just a pure locking brake you know f**k all mate.

gotta agree with that v-brakes do work very well wen set up well, although from my own personal experiance maggies really are a lot easier to get that little bt of extra locking power

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like he'd actually use a U brake for trials you idiots, its obvious that its for a bmx, and no v brakes arent just a slowing down brake nor are maggies a just a pure locking brake you know f**k all mate.

Haha calm down Jake, there only new members :lol:

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like he'd actually use a U brake for trials you idiots, its obvious that its for a bmx, and no v brakes arent just a slowing down brake nor are maggies a just a pure locking brake you know f**k all mate.

calm down mate, your not going to get validated like that are you :P

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Chrome rims are actually better for braking, Which is why they make them funnily enough.

Sorry mate, I've always got told that chrome rims aren't as good for braking.Thats why they have specials pads for them(alot more sticky). But you may be right :$ .Just get some new pads and then try them.

Callum

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Sorry mate, I've always got told that chrome rims aren't as good for braking.Thats why they have specials pads for them(alot more sticky). But you may be right :$ .Just get some new pads and then try them.

Callum

the first thing to try on chrome rims is cleaning them with window cleaner - windolene or something. Do that and clean your pads up & you should be ok.

your cable line is very important on u-brakes - it needs to be as straight as possible - which is quite hard if you're running brakes on the chainstay. I used to hang the splitter part way in front of my seattube - about halfway along the front triangle - and use a very long loop of cable - which helped quite a lot. If you run a gyro you should just run cables straight out of the bottom part into the brake - rather than buggering around with a splitter .

your best best is to check the g-sport website as he has some excellent techy tips on bmx setup & a whole bunch of cunning brake ideas

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i reccomend to just buy hydrualics, V-brakes are usually a slowing down brake, where as hydualics are a locking brake

In the wise words of Roy Walker "you're close but you're not quite right". HS33s were initially made for xc (I think) and just mtb's in general. They were just found to work well for trials.

edit: plus I don't think they'd fit on u-brake mounts would they?

Edited by the judge
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In the wise words of Roy Walker "you're close but you're not quite right". HS33s were initially made for xc (I think) and just mtb's in general. They were just found to work well for trials.

edit: plus I don't think they'd fit on u-brake mounts would they?

It can be done!

But would you really want to? The U brakes on my BMX (Odyssey evolvers, chrome rim, linear slik cable and plazmatic V Fly pads) lock as well as anything. They admitadely don't have the grabiness of hs33's but that's not too much of a worry in bmx, you want modulation for manuals anyway. Also on a bmx wouldn't the crossovers/general hoses of hs33's just be too flimsy?

But yeah to answer your question, new pads (i reccomend V-Flys but whatever), clean your rims, get a new cable (i reccomend a linear slik, your LBS may have one) and stuff it full with lube. Then you should be sorted. O and not too much spring tension.

Max

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U brakes will never get much better than how u have them...the whole point is the just dont have enough leverage to get the wheels to lock.

Let me guess, have you ever had a decent BMX? I'm gonna say no to that.

My back brake on my BMX is great. Single finger, easy action, (gay porn ad?) and locks and holds really nicely. James Noyce had the Fly U-brake on his bike and it felt like a Magura, and twice as loud :P Anyway, it's the same as any brake - decent pads make a decent brake, and a good cable helps too.

Whip the inner cable out. Spray some lube down the outer, then rub the inner in and out of it until it feels like it's got a smooth flow. Might have to apply some more lube if it's a shitty cable.

Get a decent cable routing. Don't go too short, but don't leave it fully uncut if it's a new cable.

Moving to the brake itself, take the arms off and lube the posts up with grease. This really, really helps the brake. It makes the arms move better, and it can also quieten down the brake in case it squeals.

Bolt the brake back on, but don't add any tension yet. Do the bolts up fully tight, then un-do them a full turn. You now need to add tension. Usually, this'll need a 13mm spanner for the spring-cap. Add a little tension, just enough so when you push the pads, the pads return away from the rim. More tension means it'll be harder to pull the lever 'cos you're basically fighting the spring action. Hold the spanner in the correct place to get the tension right, then do up the brake bolt again. If, once it's tight, the brake doesn't move, put a spacer underneath the spring cap.

Set the straddle cable to the correct length, so it loops properly around the seat-tube with a bit of clearance.

Using the metal brake triangle, attach the main cable. It might take a bit of tweaking to get it right, so until you get a bit more pro at setting it up, try setting all the barrel adjusters to the middle of their range so you've got some leeway. There are two main ways of getting the cable to the right length. One is simply looping the straddle through the brake triangle, then pulling the triangle forward along the brake cable until the pads are fairly close to the rim, then tightening the main cable bolt up. Alternatively, you can just 'do it by eye' and just do the main bolt up, then loop the straddle round. It's often easier that way just 'cos you aren't fighting the brake spring (may take a bit longer if you're new to it all though).

Anyway, set the pads up so they're toe'd in a little, and you should be fine. Better pads + better cable = better brake. Also, if you're running a gyro and it's a cheaper model, you'll probably be better off just getting rid of it unless you buy a decent gyro.

Another thing to remember with BMX's though is that they aren't all about massive lock. Modulation in BMX is far more important than trials, and it seems a lot of trials riders jump on BMXs then try and hop to backwheel doing, for example, an abubaca or fufanu, land badly, and just expect the brake to hold, like it would in trials. It doesn't work like that. I know it'll mean you've got to land stuff properly, but that's a good thing in the long run 'cos you'll learn to ride better, not just blag it with a powerful brake.

Just tweak your setup til you're happy with it :)

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