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Making It Ride Like A 24"


DaiTrials

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I'll be building up a nice new UK24 soon, when they come out of course, and the thing thats worrying me is this .... even though the geometry is spot on the ashton, the main thing that giveas you a nice "feel" to the bike is in the controls, stem stackers, bars and stem...

Now seen as though my forks have been cut, I dont think i'll be able to put any stem stackers on, so my question is this ( once again aimed to the proffesional opinion of the likes of Mr.Shrewbury )

What am I gonna have to do to get the bars in a tidy position? Ie - whats the largest riser bars you can get, what sort of stem rise should i get? Every nice riding 24" bike has had a few stem stackers , a slight rise in the stem and a masive 3" rise in the bars, thats what feels nice. If I cant fit any stem stackers on, what bar and stem combo am I gonna have to get for it all to feel right?

At the end of the day its up to personal oppinion, but if the bike dossnt feel like the nice ones ive been on i'll cry. because i went on someones with a really low bar possition, and it was horrible to ride, at the same time though, I fear if i go out and buy the largest rise stem and the largest rise bars i can find then I might over do it!

Finally, what size haveyou all cut ur bars down too?

On my street bike now i ride a 30 degree rise stem 70mm, azonic 1.5 inch riser bars cut down to 26 inch, what have you guys got on your amazing 24" set ups?

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used to run a 60mm x 5 ish degree rise stem with 2" rise bars and 20mm of stackers - pretty dire

running a 105 x 10 degree rise stem now and it feels 100x better.

basically the higher the front end the better. shrews runs like a metre of stackers and 2.5" bars and it rides damn well if a little extreme. mike just got an 80mm x 20 degree rise stem and said the extra rise made his bike 10x nicer to ride too. if you're using 26" style forks then obviously the drop in wheel size drops your front end so you have to compensate.

i'd say you'll need like 20mm stackers, 10 degree rise stem and 2" bars minimum. but don't overdo it like you say cos there is a medium. the way to get it to feel just right is changing the stackers around.

if you want the most outta your 24 get some light tyres on which roll real good too. and lighter is better as i've now learned haha :)

oh yeah don't need to cut your bars down at all? unless you're big on x-ups/barspins or something

Edited by the boon
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Agree with Boon!

105x10 feels mint.

I have this setup on my ET (yes it stil in 1pce!) with a 10mm spacer (wish i had 20mm) - add to this 2.5inch azonic risers and levers angle out ... so as to be almost horizontal (ish). This IMO makes 24s feel mint!!!!!

Also as Matt said about tyres... im usin dmr tyres f&r (using high pressure) - really makes it feel brilliant. its a bmx bike for trials really ;) though gotta be careful on rails!!!

anyways hope that helps... 105 x10/15 and 10-20mm of stackers and youll be laffin!

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Guys, your answrs were awsome, but the main point i wanted to raise was that my forks have been cut, so my stearer tube is quite short, way to short to be able to get some spacers under the stem :S

what can i do to compensate for that, any idea what stem/bar combo may do the trick?

Edited by DaiTrials
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stick with azonic 2.5 risers... and get the highest rise stem possible.

i think the old roox danny stems were incredibly high. dunno about how strong they are with only a 2bolt faceplate. maybe look on some online shops and see whats available. tartybikes, chainreactioncycles etc.

danny

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http://www.billys.co.uk/english/group.php?...=asrx-danny-jnr

thats what mike has now (actually 25 degree)

gash colours though!! :(

good job i have an orange bike :P - titec stems are ok and have a good combo of rise and lengths, but are quite tall.

sic usa do the 3" rise chase bars too - http://www.sicusa.com and you can get them through descent world

i woukd say a decent combo would be a titec stem - 90X25 with no spacers and 2.5" singlewalls. i know someone with and ashton and this combo and its nice

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I basically agree with everyone about the higher the better. I changed from 1.5" rise to 2.5" (Doublewalls I think), and it felt way nicer for bunny hops. And I have my bars cut down to around 25" I think. I thought I would hate it, but I didn't even notice it. Wide bars suck :P

Stem length is a lot more personal, anything 80mm-120mm will do fine, just personal preference (Y)

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Maybe I'm just odd, but I've never had problems with my low bar set up.

I've got a 90x5 stem, with 5mm stacker and 1" rise bars. I wouldn't say it feels any worse than a high bar set up, just different.

Maybe I need to try a higher bar set up, how did you guys find it affected your pure trials stuff ?

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i'm also getting a 24UK, the new geo is for a 400mm fork, i've bought myself some BT F6 forks which are 415mm long, i've also got some RaceFace diabolous bars with 1.5inch rise and i'm thinking of getting a thomson X4 stemm (90mm x10deg), my question is, having a longer fork will make the front end higher, so having a 1.5inch bar will feel like a 2.5inch bar but with a 400mm long fork?¿? :S

someone help!!!!! :(

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At the same time the length of the forks is effectively moving the bottom bracket up as well, i don't know whether this would mean because the bb is going to be higher as well that it would still be the same or whether you would need lower ones but you'll be standing higher than if you had 400mm forks.

sorry that was pretty useless :$

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Tricky question. The distance from the pedals to the bars doesn't depend on forks at all, so I would still say you ought to get the 2.5" bars. But like Steve-A said, high bars aren't for everyone. But I wouldn't worry about the forks, I'm not convinced they'll make a noticeable difference :)

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Maybe I'm just odd, but I've never had problems with my low bar set up.

I've got a 90x5 stem, with 5mm stacker and 1" rise bars. I wouldn't say it feels any worse than a high bar set up, just different.

Maybe I need to try a higher bar set up, how did you guys find it affected your pure trials stuff ?

i have steadily increased the height of my bars and i prefer it higher, it is better on the back wheel and comes up a lot easier. The two areas where i am noticing the biggest difference are my bunnyhops and my up to wheelswaps. It feels a bit nicer for gaps too, i can tuck up abit better with a higher front end.

i have 25.5" wide bars and i get on with them alright, but unless you are into barspins and x-ups i probably would bother cutting them down.

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Ill have to say the set up i've got now is brillant on my 24inch. I've been on and off the bike quite abit now, as i want a 26inch to ride. I've been riding a Oldskool Megamo radicl steel frame and its a great ride, Going back to frames like that mite get people thinking of ideas, but if u ever get one of them frames, and get a gd setup. Then it will ride great. In the end the paint started to come away as i sprayed it alot, so i talked to clive leeson about making a 26inch street setup frame. It will be a 660, but hav a seat and will be abit shorter, but i wanted something which was like the megamo but abit lower. Most people think riding a 24inch will make you do tricks and lines alot better, but belive me when i went back to a 26inch for abit i could do the same things. So really you could ride a nice short 26inch bike which is set up the same as a 24inch, and will still ride gd.

Also Im running a azonic 2.5 rise bar on my 24, and a 2.1 on my 26. For a stem you just need a gd short one which has a gd lift kind of rise. Fork's, clive can make the steer longer if you wanted , he did it for me on my 24.

But i reckon i mite be sticking to 26inch once its made, but still hav the 24inch for skate parks and rides.

hope the bar, stem, fork thing helps (Y)

Edited by John Shrewsbury
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Ill have to say the set up i've got now is brillant on my 24inch. I've been on and off the bike quite abit now, as i want a 26inch to ride.

I hear what you're saying about just getting a 24" won't make you ride differently, but what advantages are there in a 26" for street? And is that what everyone should be doing (In your opinion), just buying 26" Leesons, rather than spending money on a few frame AND wheels?

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I think John's making a valid point, in fairness. Like in Boon's thread about his older videos, there was some of the real classics in there, and someone made a comment like "Wow, that made me want a 24" when a load of the riding people were citing as the best 'street' riding was done on a 26?

All I'm getting at is that some people seem to be assuming they'll get a 24 then be some kind of street god, when you can, in honesty, do a load of the stuff on 24 on 26 without too much trouble? It's just all about the numbers, I guess. 24s are made to ride well for street, but if you got a 26 specifically made to ride in that similar way, you could probably do a lot of the same stuff.

All of the 24s I've ridden ('cept Tom Chilvers) have felt pretty underwhelming. They didn't really have the niceness of stocks, but didn't seem noticeably better for spins or street or whatever. I just wasn't mad keen on them. Maybe they'd been hyped up too much... Anyway, yeah, "IMO" and so on...

EDIT: Actually, thinking about it, Jon's 24UK did feel kinda nice, but that wasn't exactly 'typical' 24"er geometry, nor the planned geo of the finished version (AFAIK)...

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All of the 24s I've ridden ('cept Tom Chilvers) have felt pretty underwhelming. They didn't really have the niceness of stocks, but didn't seem noticeably better for spins or street or whatever. I just wasn't mad keen on them.

Tom Chilvers' bike looks awesome, but I didn't get on with it fantastically well when I rode it (for about 2 minutes).

Most 24" bikes feel totally different to your average 1080 stock now anyway. In the same way that mods are different to stocks. Obviously there is more of a an overlap, but now (having ridden 24" for 8 months or so) I can't ride a long stock any better than I can ride a mod. Basically I can just about backhop :S

I've never ridden an uber-short stock (Curtis, standard Leeson) for more than a few minutes though, I guess there's no reason why they wouldn't feel the same as your average 24. Meh, I like my bike :)

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Cuntson's got a pretty short Curtis, and I'd say it rode pretty similarly to most 24s that I've had a go on, but feels a bit nicer for "trialsy" stuff too. It manuals and bunnyhops really well, which is what most people want with 24s it seems?

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I think John's making a valid point, in fairness. Like in Boon's thread about his older videos, there was some of the real classics in there, and someone made a comment like "Wow, that made me want a 24" when a load of the riding people were citing as the best 'street' riding was done on a 26?

All I'm getting at is that some people seem to be assuming they'll get a 24 then be some kind of street god, when you can, in honesty, do a load of the stuff on 24 on 26 without too much trouble? It's just all about the numbers, I guess. 24s are made to ride well for street, but if you got a 26 specifically made to ride in that similar way, you could probably do a lot of the same stuff.

All of the 24s I've ridden ('cept Tom Chilvers) have felt pretty underwhelming. They didn't really have the niceness of stocks, but didn't seem noticeably better for spins or street or whatever. I just wasn't mad keen on them. Maybe they'd been hyped up too much... Anyway, yeah, "IMO" and so on...

wait 20 mins and you might change ur mind haha. 24 is ace..smoother than 26 :closedeyes:

Edited by the boon
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Tempting though it is, I've got work tomorrow, and after 3 1/2 hours sleep then 7 hours of riding a skatepark, I'm pretty spent :P

Anyways, I don't really get how 24" would be that much smoother than 26? Like if you'd stuck with 26, you could be that smooth now? Meh. Your call I guess.

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