Shaun H Posted February 25, 2006 Report Share Posted February 25, 2006 Ok my King had just done it's first proper skip (as in skipped and didn't re-engage shortly after as it has always done so far) so fearing for my life I decided it's time to give it a service and clean after about 5 months of abuse....This is what I've managed to get out so far:But the thing getting me is how the f**k do I clean off all the stuff still in the hub!? I know a King tool costing half the earth is required to remove and/or replace the bearings but I'm certain I've heard people say it's perfectly possible to clean and service a King without this.What's left in the hub:So I'm wondering where do I go from here? I've left the cog and spacers on as I didn't see any real reason to remove them, should I whack them off? I've lost my tool so I'd rather not but I can borrow one from work easily enough. Will I have to clean all the stuff in the hub with it still *in* the hub!?This is all very frustrating and as you've probably figured out by now I don't really know what the hell I'm doing so any advice and even better, perhaps a step by step guide on servicing a King. Maybe one for the FAQ!And before anyone says, yes my engagement mechanism is absolutely filthy, I'm confused as to how I've survived this long with all that crap in there...Anyway thanks for any help - Shaun Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
James_Porter Posted February 25, 2006 Report Share Posted February 25, 2006 just blast sheet loads of gt85 through the insides, thats all i have ever done and mines never ever skipped bad. my flange snapped off tonight though .......................WOOP pro 2 next week yesssssssssssssssssssssh Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shaun H Posted February 25, 2006 Author Report Share Posted February 25, 2006 just blast sheet loads of gt85 through the insides, thats all i have ever done and mines never ever skipped bad. my flange snapped off tonight though .......................WOOP pro 2 next week yessssssssssssssssssssshWow fast reply, really wasn't expecting one at all til tomorrow! hahaAnyway, I'm gunna be using WD40 as I'm pretty sure that'll be better for cleaning it? And I'll buy some finishline XC chainlube stuff at work on Sunday to luuuuubbbbbe it all up when I put it back together. That'll be the right stuff ai?In relation to snapping things - I only have about 40% of the driveside axle biter left, is this anything to worry about or shall I just make doubly sure it's always biting the frame and not in the gap for putting in the wheel? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Endohopper Posted February 25, 2006 Report Share Posted February 25, 2006 (edited) Been doing some research , as I intend to buy one myself soon . You didn't specify if you run a classic , ISO , or whatever else they manufacture , but T H I S might help . Good luck , hope it works out because I'm getting worried about these posts concerning faulty Kings . Edited February 25, 2006 by Endohopper Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JonPace Posted February 25, 2006 Report Share Posted February 25, 2006 Been doing some research , as I intend to buy one myself soon . You didn't specify if you run a classic , ISO , or whatever else they manufacture , but T H I S might help . Good luck , hope it works out because I'm getting worried about these posts concerning faulty Kings .I've had ISO, Discotech, and Classic and they have all been the same and barely skip ever!the internals as far as I am aware are identical from hub to hub...(correct me if I'm wrong but only the hub shell is different.) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tomm Posted February 25, 2006 Report Share Posted February 25, 2006 There was some rumour that the ISOs had stiffer springs and were therefore better for trials, but I don't think that's particularly important/true. But yeah, they're all the same inside.As for your hub, you can get a toothbrush and clean off all the helical splines on the axle bit and inside, that ought to help. Then use a thin lightweight lube on them. And as other people have said, just blast the insides with WD40/GT85. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shaun H Posted February 25, 2006 Author Report Share Posted February 25, 2006 might help . Good luck , hope it works out because I'm getting worried about these posts concerning faulty Kings .I wouldn't worry about it at all. This hub's been absolutely superb, any skips have been either when riding around or setting up. Only once or twice it has skipped during a gap and it hasn't done the *spin right round I'm going to kill you* skip at all, just shortly re-engaged after. If you take a look at the pictures you can see just how dirty it's gotten. I was shocked when I took a closer look to find relatively large lumps in there after reading on here that the slightest bit of dirt/contamination and you're totally bolloxed! Must be a good one or something Anywho I'll have a go at the toothbrush WD-40 storm when I get back later. I gave it a quick turn when I'd properly cleaned the drive shell last night and it already sounded *much* louder, and there was still mountains of crap in the ringdrive pieces. lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shaun H Posted February 26, 2006 Author Report Share Posted February 26, 2006 BUUUUMPJust wondering if sewing machine oil will be light enough (even too light?) for lubing up the ringdrive? Just spun it up with WD-40 in there and it's insanely loud... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nmt_oli Posted February 26, 2006 Report Share Posted February 26, 2006 I would at least put finishline in.My method:*take apart as you have done (with bearings in place)*blast out old oil/any dirt with gt85, soak up excess GT85 with clean rag*remove shields from bearings*relube bearings with King ring drive/bearing lube. (if looking particularly dirty, will blast bearings with gt85 first)*replace bearing shields*lube up ringdrive teeth with plenty of ringdrive lube (stick your finger in the small bearing side, and pull the driverings apart, then lube from the other side)* clean the helical splines on the axel and lube up with finish line, a few drops of finish line in the hub to allow drive rings to move*reassembleMuch better! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shaun H Posted February 26, 2006 Author Report Share Posted February 26, 2006 (edited) 5wt. shock oil any good? Sorry, really want to ride and don't wanna wait til work tomorrow after which I'll be too tired lol I'm gunna leave the bearings as they are, as the hub's less than a year old and i can still see the white grease round the back of them. Plus I only have non chris king white grease lube stuff which probably isn't a good idea to put in.EDIT: Edit, just seen in another thread fatmike mentioned using Dr X's Xlite Bike Spray as a lube, I'm fairly sure I have some of that somewhere, is that any good? Edited February 26, 2006 by Shaun H Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nmt_oli Posted February 26, 2006 Report Share Posted February 26, 2006 The can of bike spray ive got looks/smells exacty like GT85 to me. I personally think something thincker is needed as GT8 or similar evaporates quickly.5wt shock oil is better than nothing, but early kings (before CK made ringdrive lube) ran on 10/40 motor oil- so thatl work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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