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Water Bleed Guide For New Members


deanie-b

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Theres been lots of FAQ'S Recently, SO i thought i'd do a bleed one, since people are always asking in the main members forum (Y)

1) Remove magura hs33\11\66 From bike and Find a spare bucket\ bath to Bleed your brake in

2) Fill bath\bucket up. COMPLETELY submerge brake in water, and undo Grub Screw On the lever

lever.jpg

3) Then, Undo The bleed bolt off the cylinder, and let it drop to the bottom of the water, It tends to be a very greasy bolt.

bleedbolt.jpg

4) Start to pump (pull and release) your lever, Air bubbles should start shooting out, Keep the pumping up untill the bubbles start to stop, When they have completely Stopped coming out, you should have a succesful bleed with no air in the system :-:)

NOTE!! Be careful with the magura oil that will start to come out of the brake when you bleed it (If it's the first time you've used water), It has a habit of sticking to the side of the bath, And doesn't look too nice, SO your Mummy's will not be happy with you! :D

Sorry Lee, for nicking pictures out of one of your old faq's

Edited by deanie-b
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No it wont.

What plastics have you heard that water has deisolved? (cause thats all that maggys mainly are...) or even rubber...

I assume you don't know much about a water bleed? When you bleed the brake with water rather than mineral oil, The water is more acidic, This means that the seals (rubber) May\may not slowly corrode with time

Cheers :S

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I assume you don't know much about a water bleed? When you bleed the brake with water rather than mineral oil, The water is more acidic, This means that the seals (rubber) May\may not slowly corrode with time

Cheers :S

So everytime you drink a glass of water it burns the shit out of your insides? :)

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So everytime you drink a glass of water it burns the shit out of your insides? :S

Our insides aren't made out of rubber ????

On another note, please check your email, I hate not been able to send Pm's

Edited by deanie-b
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I know they're not, but it doesn't matter. Water is not acidic.

Shit, acidic is the wrong word, Corrosive might be better??

Water is corrosive to the seals, Mineral water isn't.

I'm not worried about setting up my brakes Mr pitbull, But thanks anyway :S

Edited by deanie-b
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Shit, acidic is the wrong word, Corrosive might be better??

Water is corrosive to the seals, Mineral water isn't.

I'm not worried about setting up my brakes Mr pitbull, But thanks anyway :S

so what your saying there is i can bleed my brake with tap water, but with mineral water? which do you reccomend? volvic? evian? :)

Ben

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Right, first of all its the iron in the water that very and i mean slowly f**ks your seals up, you can buy de-ironised water or if you freeze water it takes the iron out of it, so your choice :S

cheers andy

Is it not de-IONISED water that you buy? The stuff the used in chemistry labs in school, which is used in car batteries?

Edited by jake1516
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by the time the seals 'go' you will probably of bought a new brake anyway so it don't matter.

one of my mates mates used milk :) to bleed his brake,

it was ok till it went stale :S

Hey!, Thats an idea :-.....How long did it go for till it went stale mate?

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Shit, acidic is the wrong word, Corrosive might be better??

Water is corrosive to the seals, Mineral water isn't.

I'm not worried about setting up my brakes Mr pitbull, But thanks anyway :S

sureley its not the water that corrodes the seals and more the high amounts of chlorine an florine (added to water the kill bacteria) that will corrode the seals

any way water is acidic what do you think "HARD WATER" is ???

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I bleed my brakes today with water for the first time, it worked ok until I got to step 4, I pumped the lever for ages but couldn’t get the brakes to bleed. Thinking about it! I realised that water was pumping in and out of the master cylinder without filling the brake lines and slave cylinders.

I found the best way to fill the system without any air bubbles was to hold the master cylinder (handle bar lever) above the bucket of water (slave cylinders submerged with no bleed screw) and to pull the lever and hold it in, next seal the bleed hole with a finger (obviously with the bleed screw removed) and then quickly release the lever, this sucks up water through the slave cylinder with my finger acting as a non return valve.

This routine was repeated until I could see plenty of water coming out of the master cylinder, when this occurred I quickly put the master cylinder under water, gave it a few more pumps and then installed the bleed screws.

By the way I mixed the water with 25% of antifreeze so that the cylinders wouldn't corrode, I used an antifreeze that didn't contain methanol or ethylene glycol as these are very poisonous.

Cheers

Mad Dan

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Right, first of all its the iron in the water that very and i mean slowly f**ks your seals up, you can buy de-ironised water or if you freeze water it takes the iron out of it, so your choice :mellow:

cheers andy

does it matter? how long will it take to f**k the seals up using water????? probly longer then youl have your brakes anyway

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