miket-raptorman Posted November 20, 2005 Report Share Posted November 20, 2005 My magura on the rear has steadily been getting worse to the point where you have to adjust your landing style off drops, drop gaps etc. they just dont seem to bite anymore i think its cos i side moves quickly and retracts quickly and the other moves out slowly and moves in slowly. does anyone know how to sort this out? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan6061 Posted November 20, 2005 Report Share Posted November 20, 2005 Sounds to me like it needs a bleed To find out how to bleed maguras, search :angry: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mc Lovin Posted November 20, 2005 Report Share Posted November 20, 2005 My magura on the rear has steadily been getting worse to the point where you have to adjust your landing style off drops, drop gaps etc. they just dont seem to bite anymore i think its cos i side moves quickly and retracts quickly and the other moves out slowly and moves in slowly. does anyone know how to sort this out? You could have oil on your rim or pads, in this case you need to boil your pads, put them in the kettle or something, or if it is your rim your could spend money on cleaner or just get a light or harsh grind depending on what pads you have. Or you might just need a re-bleed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
t-mag_rider Posted November 20, 2005 Report Share Posted November 20, 2005 You could have air in the system, therefore you will need to re-bleed the brake. If not you could try and put your hand over one of the brake pads, whilst off the bike, and then pull the lever a few times, and if that does not work then i can not help you. hope I help you. Ollie. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
miket-raptorman Posted November 20, 2005 Author Report Share Posted November 20, 2005 (edited) Ollie t-mag rider are you the kid that was in hull today? I see by your profile that you are. Edited November 20, 2005 by miket-raptorman Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
t-mag_rider Posted November 20, 2005 Report Share Posted November 20, 2005 Ollie t-mag rider are you the kid that was in hull today? I see by your profile that you are. Yes, its me, who are you? I have added you to msn. Ollie Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bambi_3 Posted November 20, 2005 Report Share Posted November 20, 2005 try running a cloth with a bit of white spirit around your rim, if that does not work then a grind or a rebleed would be my sugestion. :angry: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lankyri Posted November 20, 2005 Report Share Posted November 20, 2005 white spirit now your talking your brake will be so sharp for that day its wicked and the noise even better than zoo's with tar :angry: what happens when you oput your pads in the kettle then its a first ive heard of it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
_tom_ Posted November 20, 2005 Report Share Posted November 20, 2005 try running a cloth with a bit of white spirit around your rim, if that does not work then a grind or a rebleed would be my sugestion. :angry: Methylated spirit seems to work quite well aswell :ermm: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JT! Posted November 21, 2005 Report Share Posted November 21, 2005 What pads you running? Booster? Tar or grind? Don't forget all brakes work slightly less when it's cold. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simpson Posted November 21, 2005 Report Share Posted November 21, 2005 Don't forget all brakes work slightly less when it's cold. Especially if you run water :P My magura has a lazy piston oh the joys!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Swindlehurst Posted November 21, 2005 Report Share Posted November 21, 2005 what pads are u running? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JT! Posted November 21, 2005 Report Share Posted November 21, 2005 Especially if you run water :P My magura has a lazy piston oh the joys!!! All you need to do is setup your brake so that you have very little TPA ajustment. Problem solved. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
deonn trials 55 Posted November 21, 2005 Report Share Posted November 21, 2005 Just a couple of words of advise to make your brake work abit better: Pads=Either plazmatic pads with a ground rim or zoo pads on a clean rim (with abit of tar) Just to make your brake abit stiffer you can get a booster (echo ones are good) You can perchase both of these items from tartybikes. If the pads move in and back out slowley or the lever is spongey bleed the brake.This is how to bleed a magura hs33.You will need to buy a magura rim brake servise kit first though :P .You can buy these from www.chainreactioncycles.com **Start by backing off your TPA (screw clockwise!) or pad adjuster screw and reach adjuster (screw both of them counter-clockwise!). This is very important and must not be missed. 1. Loosen the clamp bolt on the lever and tip the lever up so it's parallel to the floor. 2. Attach the clear plastic line and barbed fitting to the syringe and attach the barbed fitting to the other line. (barbed at one end, screw-in fittings are supplied in the Bleed Kit). 3. Fill the syringe with fluid (suck it out of the bottle) and then push out as much air as you can (syringe tip pointing upwards, curve the pipe down into the bottle). Big Tip - have the bottle held securely so you don't knock it over when wagging the pipe around. I clamp it between my knees or in the vice. 4. Remove the bleed screw from the slave (wheel) cylinder and attach the syringe (with clear pipe and screw-in fitting), keep the syringe pointed down (plunger up) so if there is any air in it, it won't go into your system. Note: successful bleeding relies heavily on the vacuum principle. It’s like the "finger over the end of the straw" trick. Fluid won’t drain out of the straw until you take your finger off the end. It’s the same with hydraulic brakes – open the lower end only and no fluid drains out. If you bleed them the reverse way (syringe at the lever end) the fluid would tend to drain out of the system when you're messing around connecting, introducing air bubbles which will have to be removed. 5. Remove the bleed screw from the lever and attach the vent tube. Make sure you don't squeeze the lever before you have the syringe and vent tube attached or you'll squirt fluid everywhere. Please don't squeeze the lever anyways as there is no point to doing this. *Get a catch container to catch the fluid coming out of the lever. Place the end of the drain hose in it. You can tape the bottle somewhere or have a helper hold it. I have a small bottle with a thin wire wrapped around its neck and I hang it from my shift cables. 6. Squeeze the syringe slowly, pushing its full contents through the system. Stop before you get to any air that's inside the syringe. 7. Once syringe is empty, remove the vent tube (at the brake lever) and re-install the bleed screw. This step is very important – this is the "finger over the straw" move. It will keep the fluid in the system when the next step is performed. 8. Remove the syringe screw-in fitting and re-install the bleed screw on the slave. If you bleed the brakes any differently than the above steps, the chances of air being in the system is great. The above steps ensure that oil will not siphon back through the system and drag some air with it. You have been warned. The next steps might not be necessary but it will truly give you air-free brakes - Lay the bike on its side with the lever you're working on being the lower lever. Remove the bleed screw (which is pointing UP) again and now just drip fluid into the hole until it is completely full. Re-install the bleed screw (some fluid will get displaced, that's okay). That's it, you're done. You now have a completely bled system free of air. Go ride! Or Quickbleed ! If you just have to replace a lever and you don't have to disturb a slave cylinder or a line, you will be able to get away with just filling the master (lever) cylinder and you won't have to do a complete bleed. When you remove the line from the lever, just make sure it doesn't wave around or fluid will be lost and a full bleed will have to be done. A vacuum will allow the fluid to remain in the line. Remove the fitting from the lever and tuck the line in among your other cables or tape it in place. Just don't let it wag or snap around. Replace the lever and screw the line fitting back into it snugly. Use a new olive - you'll have to cut the line with a very sharp knife just behind the old olive. Remember - the fitting is going into aluminum so don't go nuts. Also, you MUST back the pad adjuster and lever throw adjuster right off with a 2mm allen wrench. Lay the bike on its side and prepare to work on the lever who's bleed screw is facing up. Remove the bleed screw. Fill your bleed syring (or an eye dropper) with brake oil and drip it into the lever until it ALMOST fills the screw cavity - leave a gap from the top. Operate the lever S-L-O-W-L-Y for its full travel and you will see bubbles rise and pop. Go verrrrry slowly or oil will spill out. When the lever is back to the bars, release it slowly and re-fill the lever body. Squeeze the lever again slowly and repeat the squeeze-release and fill sequence until no more bubbles surface. It will take about 5-6 full pulls to accomplish this. You'll wonder where all the oil is going. When you're sure it's full then try tapping the lever to open it a mere gnat's whisker. You may find other small bubbles appear. This is good! Repeat and re-fill until no more bubbles appear at all. Completely top up the lever right to the top of the threads and replace the bleed screw. Now squeeze the lever several times to circulate the fluid, this will also cause any air that still might be in the line or master cylinder to rise to the top. Perform a Quickbleed top up once more, reset your TPA/pad adjuster and reach adjuster and you're done. Hope this helps. Thanks Deonn. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stock trials the real sport Posted November 21, 2005 Report Share Posted November 21, 2005 Does white spirit make your pads grip better? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
t-mag_rider Posted November 21, 2005 Report Share Posted November 21, 2005 I think it just cleans all of the rubbish off you rim, resulting in a slightly better brake, well thats what i think, tell me if im wrong though. Hope i help. Ollie Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wayneone Posted November 21, 2005 Report Share Posted November 21, 2005 Don't forget all brakes work slightly less when it's cold. I dont know mate the magura's on my xc bike have got better with the cold weather, There a lot more "bitey" and have a much more solid feel to them. they also work well in the rain aswell(just running standard black pads) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
T-BAD Posted November 21, 2005 Report Share Posted November 21, 2005 (edited) take your brake off the bike,take the pads off,and pull your lever in,your pistons should move out, clean and oil the pistons so they can slide in and out easier. should help. :P Edited November 21, 2005 by T-BAD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ogre Posted November 21, 2005 Report Share Posted November 21, 2005 White spirit should make you brakes temporarily better because it willl obviously clean of a lot of the grime you wouldn't normally notice (run your finger around the rim and you finger will be dark where it was on the rim, especialy if you had tar on it...) and i don't know if this is totally true but you know if you put a disk (froma disk brake) in the washing machine then put it back on it performs better, it is because the water ever so very slightly erodes the disk and makes it "bumpier" so there is more surface for the brake lever to hit, it should work in a similar fasion on a rim brake, i could be wrong though? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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