monkey gav Posted November 17, 2005 Report Share Posted November 17, 2005 Can anyone give me a link (or tell me) the process for bleeding hs 33. I have a bleading kit but with no instructions. please help Gavyn :S Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
deonn trials 55 Posted November 17, 2005 Report Share Posted November 17, 2005 **Start by backing off your TPA (screw clockwise!) or pad adjuster screw and reach adjuster (screw both of them counter-clockwise!). This is very important and must not be missed. 1. Loosen the clamp bolt on the lever and tip the lever up so it's parallel to the floor. 2. Attach the clear plastic line and barbed fitting to the syringe and attach the barbed fitting to the other line. (barbed at one end, screw-in fittings are supplied in the Bleed Kit). 3. Fill the syringe with fluid (suck it out of the bottle) and then push out as much air as you can (syringe tip pointing upwards, curve the pipe down into the bottle). Big Tip - have the bottle held securely so you don't knock it over when wagging the pipe around. I clamp it between my knees or in the vice. 4. Remove the bleed screw from the slave (wheel) cylinder and attach the syringe (with clear pipe and screw-in fitting), keep the syringe pointed down (plunger up) so if there is any air in it, it won't go into your system. Note: successful bleeding relies heavily on the vacuum principle. It’s like the "finger over the end of the straw" trick. Fluid won’t drain out of the straw until you take your finger off the end. It’s the same with hydraulic brakes – open the lower end only and no fluid drains out. If you bleed them the reverse way (syringe at the lever end) the fluid would tend to drain out of the system when you're messing around connecting, introducing air bubbles which will have to be removed. 5. Remove the bleed screw from the lever and attach the vent tube. Make sure you don't squeeze the lever before you have the syringe and vent tube attached or you'll squirt fluid everywhere. Please don't squeeze the lever anyways as there is no point to doing this. *Get a catch container to catch the fluid coming out of the lever. Place the end of the drain hose in it. You can tape the bottle somewhere or have a helper hold it. I have a small bottle with a thin wire wrapped around its neck and I hang it from my shift cables. 6. Squeeze the syringe slowly, pushing its full contents through the system. Stop before you get to any air that's inside the syringe. 7. Once syringe is empty, remove the vent tube (at the brake lever) and re-install the bleed screw. This step is very important – this is the "finger over the straw" move. It will keep the fluid in the system when the next step is performed. 8. Remove the syringe screw-in fitting and re-install the bleed screw on the slave. If you bleed the brakes any differently than the above steps, the chances of air being in the system is great. The above steps ensure that oil will not siphon back through the system and drag some air with it. You have been warned. The next steps might not be necessary but it will truly give you air-free brakes - Lay the bike on its side with the lever you're working on being the lower lever. Remove the bleed screw (which is pointing UP) again and now just drip fluid into the hole until it is completely full. Re-install the bleed screw (some fluid will get displaced, that's okay). That's it, you're done. You now have a completely bled system free of air. Go ride! Or Quickbleed ! If you just have to replace a lever and you don't have to disturb a slave cylinder or a line, you will be able to get away with just filling the master (lever) cylinder and you won't have to do a complete bleed. When you remove the line from the lever, just make sure it doesn't wave around or fluid will be lost and a full bleed will have to be done. A vacuum will allow the fluid to remain in the line. Remove the fitting from the lever and tuck the line in among your other cables or tape it in place. Just don't let it wag or snap around. Replace the lever and screw the line fitting back into it snugly. Use a new olive - you'll have to cut the line with a very sharp knife just behind the old olive. Remember - the fitting is going into aluminum so don't go nuts. Also, you MUST back the pad adjuster and lever throw adjuster right off with a 2mm allen wrench. Lay the bike on its side and prepare to work on the lever who's bleed screw is facing up. Remove the bleed screw. Fill your bleed syring (or an eye dropper) with brake oil and drip it into the lever until it ALMOST fills the screw cavity - leave a gap from the top. Operate the lever S-L-O-W-L-Y for its full travel and you will see bubbles rise and pop. Go verrrrry slowly or oil will spill out. When the lever is back to the bars, release it slowly and re-fill the lever body. Squeeze the lever again slowly and repeat the squeeze-release and fill sequence until no more bubbles surface. It will take about 5-6 full pulls to accomplish this. You'll wonder where all the oil is going. When you're sure it's full then try tapping the lever to open it a mere gnat's whisker. You may find other small bubbles appear. This is good! Repeat and re-fill until no more bubbles appear at all. Completely top up the lever right to the top of the threads and replace the bleed screw. Now squeeze the lever several times to circulate the fluid, this will also cause any air that still might be in the line or master cylinder to rise to the top. Perform a Quickbleed top up once more, reset your TPA/pad adjuster and reach adjuster and you're done. Cheers Deonn Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Siders77 Posted November 17, 2005 Report Share Posted November 17, 2005 Here. :S Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mc Lovin Posted November 17, 2005 Report Share Posted November 17, 2005 Here. :S Would it be ok if i just bled it with water streight from bleeding magie oil or will i have to give it a clean out? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ollie Posted November 17, 2005 Report Share Posted November 17, 2005 yer, thats what i would like to know? do you let the oil out in the bath or do you clean out the oil some how first then bleed it with water in the bath? thanks ollie Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mackey Posted November 17, 2005 Report Share Posted November 17, 2005 follow the guide above that is a good guide deonn trials 55 :S :P Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Siders77 Posted November 17, 2005 Report Share Posted November 17, 2005 If it has oil in it then I'd do it in an oold bucket. :S Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monkey gav Posted November 18, 2005 Author Report Share Posted November 18, 2005 Thanks alot guys blead both brakes tonight in the in a bucket of water and de icer.70 water and 30 de icer. For the simple reason that it sounded easier and was quite simple. I used water then looked at the ice on the road and asked myself "why would i want frozen brakes the day before a comp" and de icer seemed a sensible soloution thanks alot guys for all the help Gav :blink: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ali C Posted November 18, 2005 Report Share Posted November 18, 2005 I need to bleed my brakes again tomorrow with ani freeze, went out riding today and after 10 mins my back brake was totally frozen, making my bike unridable lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simpson Posted November 18, 2005 Report Share Posted November 18, 2005 If it has standard oil in just pucker up and blow the shit out and flick it about then do it in the sink!!! and anit freeze is a must at this time of year, i say stick to oil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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