Hope Mono Problems

[Mc Lovin]

I'm borrowing a hope mono off my mate because my front magura has lost all the threads in the lever so it doesn't work. The hope is not working very well ether (It's been siting in my mates shed for about 6 months). I've tried going down hills with it on, splashing water on it then going down hills with it on and cleaning the disk with a clean cloth (which made it worse) I was just wondering weather it needed new pads or a re-bleed, the break lever is quite spongy so I'm not sure what do do. cheers guys (Y) .

[Mitch A]

Maybe it needs to be re bedded?

how long have you used it for?

[Zoo_Monkey]

if its sponge it will definitely need a re-bleed. (Y)

is there any oil residue round the piston cap or the reservoir cover? the rubber seals degrade and leek brake fluid

[matthewholdsworth]

if its been sitting un used for a while in a shed itll probs need a bleed jsut to be sure!

before this though, set it up properly it isnt just a matter of bolting the caliper on and riding, u need to spend a bit of time aligning the pads so the disc runs equi-distant from them. if it doesnt then your brake will be spongy (the brake will bend the rotor til it touches the other pad to work - hence poor lever feel).

poor set up usually explains poor performance

[Mc Lovin]

Ok thanks guys i will try a rebleed, If that dosen't work where could I get some new pads?

[spode@thinkbikes]

The equidistant thing isn't a huge problem. Unless I'm mistaken it doesn't work in quite the same way because of the piston design. As soon as the one closer to the disc hits force, the other starts moving more. They both don't move the same distance, they both move enough to hit the disc. However, it is worth making sure you have the right washers in so that the pads aren't rubbing the discs.

I would do the following for an all over service. (I've got a Mini/M4/DH4/Enduro, I don't know if things have changed with the mono system). My god, I was bored this morning - say hello to my huuuge essay!

Bleeding The Brakes

1 - Remove the pads.

2 - Remove the disc.

3 - Go to halfords and buy some Dot 5.1 oil and a clutch/disc bleeding kit. The are traditionally for motorbikes, but the tubing is the right size - just remove the ball bearing that's on the end of the tube. This should cost about £8 for both and you'll get LOTS of bleeds out of the oil.

4 - Push the pistons in so they are flush with the calliper.

5 - Put the tubing on the bleed nipple and get yourself a spanner for undoing this (I think it's an 8 or 10mm)

6 - Making sure your lever is parrallel with the floor (i.e flat), un do the reservoir cap.

7 - If it is fairly empty, top it up with your new oil. (tip: with halfords oil, don't remove the foil, just pierce a small hole)

8 - Undo the bleed nipple. Now pull the lever. If the pistons move, you haven't undone the bleed nipple enough. Then while the lever is pulled in, close the bleed nipple. Then let go of the lever and the vacuum will pull oil through the system.

9 - Keep repeating step 8 until the oil is running clean and no air bubbles are coming through. While repeating, periodically top up the reservoir. DO NOT let it get too shallow or it will pull air through the system. If the pistons have moved, you screwed up the routine (like pulling the lever with the nipple closed). So push the pistons back in to place before carrying on. If you screw it up enough, the piston will actually fall out. But don't worry, just put it back in place, clean up the oil and carry on.

10 - Once content that's it's bled properly, top up the reservoir and then put the cap back on.

11 - CLEAN UP. If you get oil on your pads or disc, you are gonna have a hell of a time sorting it out. So make sure you remove all oil with tissue, including near the pistons as the oil might get on the pads.

12 - Follow the disc and pad cleaning section of this guide, and then put your disc and pads back in. Line it up as centrally as you can using the washers.

13 - Keep pulling the lever and it will eventually self adjust and the pads will be in place.

14 - Fine tune the adjustment by moving washers. If it's not rubbing, it's probably not worth moving it.

Cleaning Pads And Disc

In almost all cases, just a basin of warm water and a sponge/scourer is all that is needed. However, if you are unlucky enough to get contaminated by oil, or even finger grease (yes, don't touch the disc if you can help it!!), then you'll need to take more drastic action.

If you have plenty of money, just buy a new disc and pads. The downside to this is you have to spend a while bedding your disc in as well as your pads. However, if one is contaminated, they BOTH will be. So just replacing your pads for instance is just going to end back where you were.

I'm not 100% sure what does it, but I found the following does the trick. I use a brillo pad and clean the disc as much as I can. I then BAKE the disc pads in the oven at it's highest temperature for a few hours. I usually pop the disc in there as well to help burn off any excess oil. The surface of the pads should discolour a little with the oil. I then take a file and just remove a little off the surface of the pads for luck.

I have also tried a blow-torch to the disc and boiling the pads. So if you're still out of luck, you can try that too.

The way to tell if oil is the problem, is if you get a horrible squeeling and the brake isn't locking on. If the performance isn't quite there, but it's making normal friction noises, that probably means you just have to bed it in.

I also found disc cleaner helped remove the final remenants, during the bedding in process.

Bedding In

Bedding in is very important for a trials bike. You'll need a bottle of water and some kitchen roll.

Ride around holding the brake in question on so that it is rubbing as hard as it can without actually locking on (it's hard work!). Keep doing this and then stop. Pour some water on it. It should make steam as it hits the disc. If it didn't, you didn't ride for long enough, or with the lever on hard enough.

Take a piece of kitchen roll and just hold it on the disc and spin the wheel. This should wipe any crap off the disc. This isn't entirely necessary, but I always come out with a black piece of kitchen roll, so I figure it's getting rid of something.

Then repeat the whole rubbing, water, rubbing, water until it starts to work better.

If this isn't getting anywhere, buy some disc cleaner. I found this helps a lot and removes any leftover crap that is still on the disc.

Coping With a Bent Disc

Bent discs are incredibly common. Even if you don't hit it, they have a habit of warping. After all, you are putting a lot of stress on them. Generally speaking, unless the bend is quite bad, just put up with the minor rubbing.

However, using a wrench you can very easily remove bends. Spin your wheel slowly until you can feel the point of friction (and hopefully see it). Make note of which arm of the disc is bent and then turn the wheel so you can get access to it. Using a CLEAN wrench, tighten it on the area that is near the bent arm. Then just gently pull/push it in the direction you need it moved. Don't be too forceful.

Then take off the wrench and see if it's still rubbing. If it is, just repeat. Better to slowly get there than bend the disc completely out of shape. Constant bending/rebending can't be good for it.

I hope this helps, but please don't flame me if by following these instructions you screw it up!

[Danny Swindlehurst]

:( :S Clean the disc and pads with carb and choke cleaner u can buy it from many motocycles shops

[Mc Lovin]

Thanks for your time spode it is really appriciated. I will pay a visit to halfords on the weekend to get some oil and a bleed kit.

Cheers everyone :( .