Siders77 Posted November 12, 2005 Report Share Posted November 12, 2005 Because there have been quite a few topics about bleeding Maguras I thought I'd make a topic.... ;) Bleeding Maguras with a bleed kit. For this method you need a bleed kit, here are a few links to online shops that sell them. Chain Reaction Cycles. Wiggle > Brake Spares. You should also be able to get them from your LBS. Losen the TPA all of the way off. Move the whole lever up so that it's pointing forwards instead of down. Fill a syringe with water or oil, it's your choice but I like water better because it gives a better feel to the lever. Take the bleed bolt off of the slave cylinder. This one circled red; Use one of the clear tubes shown up there in the first picture and screw it into the bleed hole but make sure that the tube is full up with water before you screw it on. I find it easier to put the syringe on the pipe and fill the pipe with the syringe. Undo the little grub screw on the lever body pictured below; Take the other clear tube and screw it into that hole. Ask someone if they can hold an old butter tub or something under the plastic pipe coming from the lever otherwise you'll get oil all over your rim/rotor. :shifty: Now that's all done up nice and tight pump the syringe until most of the fluid from it is gone. (Remember to go from the slaves to the lever!) Now look at the tube coming out of the lever, if it has air in you need to do that again. (When you take the syringe off of the pipe remember to get someone to put their finger over the other end. :P ) When no more air comes out of the pipe then it's finished. Take the pipe off of the lever and put the grub screw back in but remember when you're taking the pipe off of the lever remember to leave the syringe on the pipe coming from the slave. (Y) Now take the pipe off of the slave and put the bleed bolt back in. Done. :D Bleeding Maguras in a bucket or a bath. Fill the bucket or the bath full of water. Take the brake off of your bike and put it in the bucket/bath. Undo both bleed bolts, the one on the lever and the one on the slave. (Underwater) Pump the brake and you should see some air coming out of the slave. Do this until no more air comes out. Do up both of the bleed bolts. (Again, underwater) Take the brake out and it should be air free. Done. Any more questions MSN/ PM me or ask in here. Lee. :P Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eskimo Posted October 12, 2006 Report Share Posted October 12, 2006 (edited) Haha mission acomplished. Took only a few minutes.Thanks! Edited January 24, 2007 by eskimo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Walleee Posted October 12, 2006 Report Share Posted October 12, 2006 Couldn't be more clearer, iudo the bolt on the slaves, hook up your syringe filled with oil and no air. Then loosen the bleed bolt at the lever, making sure it's above the slaves, squeeze your syringe, replace the lever bolt making sure no oil spills out, then remove the syringe and replace the bolt on the sylinder......Make sure your TPA's all the way out, and don't spill any... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Greetings Posted October 12, 2006 Report Share Posted October 12, 2006 (edited) My method (takes aprox. 60 seconds to bleed a brake): If you haven't got the bleed kit, remove the fitting shown below and place it in a hose. Angles: White line is horizontal, you'll need to mount the lever at a slight angle facing downwards Pistons at the same level, as shown on the photo Pistons should be lower than the lever = easier to bleed. With a 2004 or earlier model, you should align the lever so that the hose sticks out vertically, upwards. Bleeding: I use an open syringe because it's much easier to keep air out of the system. As you can see, I've screwed it in to the bleed hole on the lever. It's facing upwards and is supported by a spoke so that once I pour the water in, it won't spill out. The solution I bleed the brake with has 20% alcohol in it, to keep it from freezing. On the photo below, I've already poured it into the syringe but it is not going into the brake because the bleed screw on the pistons is not undone. I've also got plenty more of this fluid on standby to fill the syringe up once it's almost empty. I have now unscrewed the bleed screw and the fluid is slowly being sucked into the system. If it isn't, you'll have to apply slight pressure at the syringe to make it flow. When the syringe is almost empty, poor some more fluid into it. Make sure it's never empty or you'll have air in the system. Having done that, screw the bleed screw into the piston. Now you'll need the syringe to be about half full. Press the brake lever a couple of times. This will get all the trapped air out of the master cylinder and into the syringe, sucking back fluid. I suggest you take your time. Poor the fluid away from the syringe and unscrew it. Make sure you've got fluid overflowing once you screw in the bleed screw. Well done!edit: If something is unclear just ask. I realize that my english is quite bad when it comes to explaining things. Edited October 12, 2006 by Inur Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
downhill_rob2@hotmail.com Posted October 12, 2006 Report Share Posted October 12, 2006 Fill bath up, sink brake fully under water, take bleed bolts from caliper + lever.Pull lever, sucks in water, then put finger over bleed bolt at caliper, release lever, then take finger off, then pull lever, and hold in, and put finger over bleed bolt at caliper...Just repeat about 30 odd times, and jobs a good 'un.Make sure brake is under water all time, and you put bolts in uncer water aswell...(takes aprox. 60 seconds to bleed a brake): Suuuuuuure it does Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Greetings Posted October 13, 2006 Report Share Posted October 13, 2006 Suuuuuuure it does What was the point of that? Learn to do it properly and it won't sound unreal to you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ben_travis Posted November 9, 2006 Report Share Posted November 9, 2006 (edited) bath bleeds dont work. they suck assfigured it now. and they seem alreet. ill fit to bicycle and let your sorry arses know Edited November 9, 2006 by ben_travis Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jaffacakes Posted November 13, 2006 Report Share Posted November 13, 2006 bath bleeds dont work. they suck assfigured it now. and they seem alreet. ill fit to bicycle and let your sorry arses know They work fine if you can bleed a break Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
downhill_rob2@hotmail.com Posted December 10, 2006 Report Share Posted December 10, 2006 What was the point of that? Learn to do it properly and it won't sound unreal to you. haha.Well, first of all, it would probably take 60 seconds to set the bloody thing up in all them vices n shit.Then you have to bleed it, correctly, you would have to put atleast 3 seringes of fluid through to get all air out...And then you have to put back on bike, so i would say 20 mins atleast...I havnt had to bleed my brake for around 1 year now, and thats off a bath bleed, and its still AWESOME, no TPA needed at all, and is solid as f**k, best brake iv EVER had, and EVER used! as all my mates, and people i ride with.. say. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Walleee Posted December 10, 2006 Report Share Posted December 10, 2006 Inur has a video on his tv.isg account showing someone(him) bleeding a hs22 in 72 seconds or something close, it's rather funny to watch. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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