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Acs Claws Freewheel Coming Loose?


downhill_rob2@hotmail.com

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If your ACS claws freewheel is coming loose all the time when just riding along, and you dont have the extra £5 or so to pay for a prewelded one from www.selectbikes.co.uk, why not just weld it yourself? or find someone with a MIG welder to weld it for you?

Heres how to do it properly....

First of all, take your crank arm off your bike, and put the crank in a vice so that the freewheel is facing upwards, now take the lockring off the freewheel (to do this, turn it clockwise) now put some fresh grease in and make sure nothing has fell out or broke inside, then replace the lockring (turn it anti-clockwise to tighten) make sure its nice and tight so its working perfect :D cause your never going to be able to take it apart again, you only get one chance at this next part....

Now get your MIG welder, and weld 4 little bits of weld onto the lock ring like this:

freewheelweld6oc.jpg

freewheelweldfull0jc.jpg

MAKE SURE YOU HIT BOTH THE LOCKRING AND THE BLACK PART WHERE THE FREEWHEEL TOOL GOES ON!!! this stops the lockring from moving/coming loose again.

Its worked for 7 months for me, and its still going 100% stong, its starting to get a little bit gritty though cause my bike fell in the river :( lol.

Remember, saftey first when welding!!

Peace out!

Edited by terror-error
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  • 2 weeks later...

lol, that is great, i believe it to be a tack, and a tig welder would be much more effective as could penertrate the metal witha big old weld pool and not have the "blob"

gaz...

Yeah this is only a lock ring though mind :P.

One tack would have been enough, then if need be you could grind it off and open up the freewheel if you ever needed to.

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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 11 months later...

Or if its easier then just heat the whole thing up and fill it with solder, your only stopping it freewheeling the pawls are all still there so it doesn't really need any strength. I taped an old Deore still when I first when FFW ages ago. Or put a tack between the lock-ring and the inside as shown above and between the lock-ring and outside as you suggested.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Or if its easier then just heat the whole thing up and fill it with solder, your only stopping it freewheeling the pawls are all still there so it doesn't really need any strength. I taped an old Deore still when I first when FFW ages ago. Or put a tack between the lock-ring and the inside as shown above and between the lock-ring and outside as you suggested.

It isnt stopping it freewheeling though...

The lockrings on ACS claw freewheels come loose when your riding (if you have it FFW) so you weld the lockring shut, and it stops it coming loose, while it still freewheels...

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lol, that is great, i believe it to be a tack, and a tig welder would be much more effective as could penertrate the metal witha big old weld pool and not have the "blob"

gaz...

But a 'blob' can hold the lockring in place and can also be removed for when you wan't to clean it up by hitting it with a screwdriver/chisel type thing....

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  • 3 months later...

Personally I would remove the freewheel from the cranks first as the thread on the aluminium cranks may deform a little considering how much heat it will take to weld the steel lockring in place, which could make future removal of the freewheel problematic.

Edited by dantrials
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Personally I would remove the freewheel from the cranks first as the thread on the aluminium cranks may deform a little considering how much heat it will take to weld the steel lockring in place, which could make future removal of the freewheel problematic.

That shouldnt be a problem, it doesnt get too hot, just enough heat to melt 1 little blob of welding rod, and it works.

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