Onzatproboy Posted October 30, 2005 Report Share Posted October 30, 2005 (Y) please could someone tell me how to refill my magura rim brakes please??????? (Y) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deonn h Posted October 30, 2005 Report Share Posted October 30, 2005 Firstly you need to go and buy a bleeding kit.When you have done that unscrew the allen key bolt on the slave cilinder and the small allenkey bolt in the lever.Then fill the ceringe up with magura oil making sure you don`t get any air into it.Then screw the ceringe into the sloave cilinder and the other tube into the lever.Slowley push the oil into the cilinder and all the air and extra oil will come out of the lever.Unscrew the tube which goes into the lever and screw the bolt back in and unscrew the ceringe from from the slave cilinder and quickley screw the bolt back in then your done.If the lever is still abit sponger repeat the process all over again. It`s easier to watch someone do this before trying it yourself but you should be ok. Thanks Deonn P.s keep the lever horizontal when doing this. (Y) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
downhill_rob2@hotmail.com Posted October 30, 2005 Report Share Posted October 30, 2005 I think theres a step by step guid to bleeding brakes on the magura website? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onzatproboy Posted October 30, 2005 Author Report Share Posted October 30, 2005 (Y) thanks mate (Y) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wayneone Posted October 30, 2005 Report Share Posted October 30, 2005 To the rescue! http://www.execulink.com/~dtierney/wmc/Magura/contents.htm **Start by backing off your TPA (screw clockwise!) or pad adjuster screw and reach adjuster (screw both of them counter-clockwise!). This is very important and must not be missed. 1. Loosen the clamp bolt on the lever and tip the lever up so it's parallel to the floor. 2. Attach the clear plastic line and barbed fitting to the syringe and attach the barbed fitting to the other line. (barbed at one end, screw-in fittings are supplied in the Bleed Kit). 3. Fill the syringe with fluid (suck it out of the bottle) and then push out as much air as you can (syringe tip pointing upwards, curve the pipe down into the bottle). Big Tip - have the bottle held securely so you don't knock it over when wagging the pipe around. I clamp it between my knees or in the vice. 4. Remove the bleed screw from the slave (wheel) cylinder and attach the syringe (with clear pipe and screw-in fitting), keep the syringe pointed down (plunger up) so if there is any air in it, it won't go into your system. Note: successful bleeding relies heavily on the vacuum principle. It’s like the "finger over the end of the straw" trick. Fluid won’t drain out of the straw until you take your finger off the end. It’s the same with hydraulic brakes – open the lower end only and no fluid drains out. If you bleed them the reverse way (syringe at the lever end) the fluid would tend to drain out of the system when you're messing around connecting, introducing air bubbles which will have to be removed. 5. Remove the bleed screw from the lever and attach the vent tube. Make sure you don't squeeze the lever before you have the syringe and vent tube attached or you'll squirt fluid everywhere. Please don't squeeze the lever anyways as there is no point to doing this. *Get a catch container to catch the fluid coming out of the lever. Place the end of the drain hose in it. You can tape the bottle somewhere or have a helper hold it. I have a small bottle with a thin wire wrapped around its neck and I hang it from my shift cables. 6. Squeeze the syringe slowly, pushing its full contents through the system. Stop before you get to any air that's inside the syringe. 7. Once syringe is empty, remove the vent tube (at the brake lever) and re-install the bleed screw. This step is very important – this is the "finger over the straw" move. It will keep the fluid in the system when the next step is performed. 8. Remove the syringe screw-in fitting and re-install the bleed screw on the slave. If you bleed the brakes any differently than the above steps, the chances of air being in the system is great. The above steps ensure that oil will not siphon back through the system and drag some air with it. You have been warned. The next steps might not be necessary but it will truly give you air-free brakes - Lay the bike on its side with the lever you're working on being the lower lever. Remove the bleed screw (which is pointing UP) again and now just drip fluid into the hole until it is completely full. Re-install the bleed screw (some fluid will get displaced, that's okay). That's it, you're done. You now have a completely bled system free of air. Go ride! Or Quickbleed ! If you just have to replace a lever and you don't have to disturb a slave cylinder or a line, you will be able to get away with just filling the master (lever) cylinder and you won't have to do a complete bleed. When you remove the line from the lever, just make sure it doesn't wave around or fluid will be lost and a full bleed will have to be done. A vacuum will allow the fluid to remain in the line. Remove the fitting from the lever and tuck the line in among your other cables or tape it in place. Just don't let it wag or snap around. Replace the lever and screw the line fitting back into it snugly. Use a new olive - you'll have to cut the line with a very sharp knife just behind the old olive. Remember - the fitting is going into aluminum so don't go nuts. Also, you MUST back the pad adjuster and lever throw adjuster right off with a 2mm allen wrench. Lay the bike on its side and prepare to work on the lever who's bleed screw is facing up. Remove the bleed screw. Fill your bleed syring (or an eye dropper) with brake oil and drip it into the lever until it ALMOST fills the screw cavity - leave a gap from the top. Operate the lever S-L-O-W-L-Y for its full travel and you will see bubbles rise and pop. Go verrrrry slowly or oil will spill out. When the lever is back to the bars, release it slowly and re-fill the lever body. Squeeze the lever again slowly and repeat the squeeze-release and fill sequence until no more bubbles surface. It will take about 5-6 full pulls to accomplish this. You'll wonder where all the oil is going. When you're sure it's full then try tapping the lever to open it a mere gnat's whisker. You may find other small bubbles appear. This is good! Repeat and re-fill until no more bubbles appear at all. Completely top up the lever right to the top of the threads and replace the bleed screw. Now squeeze the lever several times to circulate the fluid, this will also cause any air that still might be in the line or master cylinder to rise to the top. Perform a Quickbleed top up once more, reset your TPA/pad adjuster and reach adjuster and you're done. Turn the bike over and do the other lever. Taaa-Daaaa!! You've done a Quickbleed - but to be perfectly honest it takes about as much time as the full bleed. It's just easier to do if your on your own. 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Robwalker Posted October 31, 2005 Report Share Posted October 31, 2005 i found that aking appart the whole system and then cleaning it out, then putting it in a bathfull of water and putting it back together (with water in the system) works pretty gr8! (Y) although some people think its bad, and no it will not rust ad to rust u need oxygen, so just make sure thers no air inside the system n it will be fine! B) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
the_ferret Posted October 31, 2005 Report Share Posted October 31, 2005 i found that aking appart the whole system and then cleaning it out, then putting it in a bathfull of water and putting it back together (with water in the system) works pretty gr8! (Y) although some people think its bad, and no it will not rust ad to rust u need oxygen, so just make sure thers no air inside the system n it will be fine! B) water contains oxygen and it varies where you live B) lol oggy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ollie Posted October 31, 2005 Report Share Posted October 31, 2005 water contains oxygen and it varies where you live B) lol oggy but not enough to rust (Y) but i could if you are REALLY unlucky! And i have heard that if you bleed it with water it has a nice, quicker feel than oil! B) ollie Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
downhill_rob2@hotmail.com Posted October 31, 2005 Report Share Posted October 31, 2005 but not enough to rust (Y) but i could if you are REALLY unlucky! And i have heard that if you bleed it with water it has a nice, quicker feel than oil! B) ollie Yep it sure does, love my water bleed! lol I seam to get loads of air in it after time though, i might try the bucket bleed, but that means taking my foam glued on grips off n shit... ah f**k it lol. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robwalker Posted November 1, 2005 Report Share Posted November 1, 2005 water contains oxygen and it varies where you live ;) lol oggy ahhh but for a more scientific explination, ;) Rust is known as aliminuim or iron oxide, and oxide means there must be 2 oxygen atoms, although there is only one in water, H20, (the 2 is the ammount of hydrogen atoms btw) thats a gd1 to impress ur science teacher with :P so really it cannot rust even if you live in rustlethorp :P Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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