Olly C Posted October 28, 2005 Report Share Posted October 28, 2005 Right guys, I've had my profile for a year and a half or something now, and its been running perfectly well engagement-wise all through that time and it really does make me feel safer than riding a freewheel. But a couple of months ago I took it apart to give it a clean and ended up putting my finger in the hole *joke if you wish* of the driver bearings to clean the things and when I pulled my finger back out the bearings pulled apart and stuff. That sounds very sketch but never mind. I then bought the bearings I was told were needed and went for the more expensive Japanese bearings that profile and everyone recommended, put them in fine, ran smooth again, until a week ago. At first I thought it was my chain that had snapped due to using a split link being a bitch or my BB bend/broken as it was making a few cracking sounds and stuff. Then the hub started sticking and playing up for the first time, I got a chance to open it up today and see that the outer bearing and kind of cracked and snapped leading to all the bits of it going into the pawls, teeth and everything resulting in cuts and scratches on the metal. The other 3 seem to be fine, same as last time really I could pull them apart if I wanted to but I think there ok. Everythings now cleaned up and doesn't seem to be too messed up. So what kind of bearing is the best option to go for all you tech people? It was just the other bearing this time and the shell was the thing that cracked up. Heres the thread about bearing models and stuff: Old Thread Cheers Olly Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Will Arnold Posted October 28, 2005 Report Share Posted October 28, 2005 why not go for the bearings that come standard on profiles? they lasted you a year and a half :P also, those bearings dont like water/rivers much, or so i have found. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Burton Posted October 28, 2005 Report Share Posted October 28, 2005 why not go for the bearings that come standard on profiles? they lasted you a year and a half :D also, those bearings dont like water/rivers much, or so i have found. Or WD40. I have also found the same thing. My orginal Profile bearings lasted for about 6 months...then they gave up. After replacing them with some bearings(the cheaper ones though, not the Japenese uns) from www.smbbearings.co.uk, they lasted well, but not for 6 months, only about 4. I think since they were cheaper quality then went a little quicker, plus me axle was a little loose at one point, and the cones as well. Also WD40 ate up the lube inside them, causing too much friction, and K.O'd them. As for replacing the bearings, just buy some more, but just replace the cones(bearing covers). May solve the problem. Also use grease on the outside of them, and use light lube(not WD40). Hope it helps Olly :P Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Olly C Posted October 28, 2005 Author Report Share Posted October 28, 2005 Well I only need one for now so I'll probably go with another jap one I guess then get some of the green can of lube I have and spray it in there and shut it up. My little driver end cap thing (thats the colour of your hub) is pretty worn on one side though not sure if that could affect it. Cheers Olly Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AdamR28 Posted October 28, 2005 Report Share Posted October 28, 2005 My little driver end cap thing (thats the colour of your hub) is pretty worn on one side though not sure if that could affect it. Thats shouldn't affect it - its only worn on one side from using the hub with dead bearings in the driver. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Heatsink Posted October 28, 2005 Report Share Posted October 28, 2005 What's the number on the side of the bearings? Also rough dimensions: Inner diameter, outer diameter and thickness? Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Burton Posted October 28, 2005 Report Share Posted October 28, 2005 What's the number on the side of the bearings? Also rough dimensions: Inner diameter, outer diameter and thickness? Steve 680-2RS thats all. Dont know dimensions.... Pm'd you Steve (Y) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Olly C Posted October 28, 2005 Author Report Share Posted October 28, 2005 What's the number on the side of the bearings? Also rough dimensions: Inner diameter, outer diameter and thickness? Steve I'll check when I can and post back here when I know what they are Steve (Y) Cheers Olly Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Heatsink Posted October 28, 2005 Report Share Posted October 28, 2005 680-2RS thats all. Dont know dimensions.... Pm'd you Steve (Y) Cheers for the PM - Sorry for the delay getting back to you! For the bearings, do you mean 6800 - 2RS? This would be a radial ball bearing with 10mm Inner diameter, 19mm outer diameter and 5mm thick? The 6800 is a universal code fir this the size and the 2RS refers to the type of seals/or not There are loads of places to buy bearings and the specs and costs vary by alot! Once you can confirm the dimensions for the bearing, then it's possible to have a look at the tech specs and prices for a few alternatives. Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Burton Posted October 29, 2005 Report Share Posted October 29, 2005 Cheers for the PM - Sorry for the delay getting back to you! For the bearings, do you mean 6800 - 2RS? This would be a radial ball bearing with 10mm Inner diameter, 19mm outer diameter and 5mm thick? The 6800 is a universal code fir this the size and the 2RS refers to the type of seals/or not There are loads of places to buy bearings and the specs and costs vary by alot! Once you can confirm the dimensions for the bearing, then it's possible to have a look at the tech specs and prices for a few alternatives. Steve Nope, they say 6802 2RS, but on the actual bearing, it doesnt say the 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Olly C Posted October 30, 2005 Author Report Share Posted October 30, 2005 What's the number on the side of the bearings? Also rough dimensions: Inner diameter, outer diameter and thickness? Steve Total Width = 24mm approx Inner Width = 15mm approx Depth = 4mm approx Model Number: 6802 RS Japanese Version Hope that can help, Cheers Olly Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Olly C Posted October 31, 2005 Author Report Share Posted October 31, 2005 Any help to you Steve? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Heatsink Posted November 1, 2005 Report Share Posted November 1, 2005 Any help to you Steve? Stonger bearings aren't available I'm afraid, unless you could use ones with larger geometry somehow, which would involve redesigning the hub. As Dan suggests in the FAQ, order replacements from SMB Bearings. I’d ring them up on 01993 842555 and order bearing number 6802- 2RS, with the standard chrome steel balls, Chinese made, however many you need. Below is some more info on the options and why I’d recommend this version. Product Code: 6802-2RS - Specs in the Thin Section Bearing category on SMB’s online catalog Dimensions: ID = 15mm OD = 24mm t = 5mm Material Choice for Balls: 1. Chrome Steel: Standard choice 2. Stainless Steel: If Damp won’t rust, but this comes at a double cost; compared to the chrome they are 3x more expensive and also crucially are weaker - will break at 15% lower radial load. So definitely Chrome balls (the standard option) Now you know you want the 6802-2RS with standard Chrome steel balls, you just need to know which country of origin you want them from. Please note that both of the following are equally strong. Country of Origin 1. Chinese (Standard Quality) 2. Japanese (High Quality): Machined to higher tolerances, so run smoother and quieter (you may not notice this in a trials bike!), roughly 2 times the price of the Chinese made version. Worth mentioning again that these are both equally strong. Since strength is the most important attribute, and I’d argue that the relative smoothness and noise is not going to be noticeable, my suggestion is buy the Chinese version and for the same money stock up with spare bearings: Cost summary including VAT Chinese 6802-2RS Order quantity 1-10 = £ 1.63 (Japanese are £3.56 each) Order quantity 10+ = £1.02 (Japanese are £2.60 each) If you order the Chinese version, for around only a tenner (postage not included) you could get hold of 10 bearings, plenty of spares for the inevitable moment when they break again. Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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