Mark W Posted October 14, 2005 Report Share Posted October 14, 2005 'lo, Right. I got an RB lever from someone, but the seal was turd. I decided to put the RB blade on a standard Magura body, and after much filing I had some success. However, the problem started soon after. The RB's TPA was a little too long, and as such it 'bottomed out' the piston/cylinder once or twice. This led to it sticking down once or twice. After that, and after a few bleeds, the brake was still shite. I put the original lever back in, but the piston still stuck in, with the lever flapping around on it's own. I've just tried bleeding it again now, and there's no air coming out, but when you pull the lever, it doesn't move the pistons at all, and more often than not the pistons sticks in, then explodes out again really hard (shooting water into my eyes. Cheers.). I don't really get what's happened, so can anyone suggest anything? The TPA's fine, the lever bolt's not too tight, the bleed seems to be fine (but I'm guessing it's not...), and so on - so I'm guessing I need to strip the lever itself down more. Can anyone tell me how to take the cylinder itself apart? I wasn't too sure how to lift the seals/piston out, and I didn't want to rape any of it 'cos I don't know if I've got spares anywhere. Thanks for any help, Mark Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aaron_trials _247 Posted October 14, 2005 Report Share Posted October 14, 2005 have you tried stretching the spring back (sounds to me from what your saying ) a bit longer than what it is to stop the lever flopping about a bit DAN Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
quick_spider Posted October 14, 2005 Report Share Posted October 14, 2005 Undo the bleed screw and remove the lever blade. Does the cylinder return? If not, then the seals are sticking/damaged. To get the piston/seals out, do the above. It should just pop out. If not then poke a thin allen key/spoke down the bleed hole to push the cylinder out. I think there should be a conventional O-ring and a wiper seal (it has a u shape cross section) Jon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nb88 Posted October 14, 2005 Report Share Posted October 14, 2005 (edited) If the long RB TPA bolt has reached the master piston, and is pushing it in, then the only reason why your pads arent moving is the bleed. If its not reaching the master piston, screw it in more :ermm: About the bottoming out, i had the exact same problem and ended up just selling my rb lever. I think the only solution is to have the pads quite far from the rim, and screw the TPA bolt in so much that the main lever big (that holds the brass threaded bit) doesnt hit the side of the master cylinder. The pads sahould move instantly when you pull the lever (if its pushing the master piston). If not, its the bleed basically. What are you bleeding with? id recommend water, and clean all of the bits seperately first. And like jon said above, take the seal bit out and give it all a good clean. Edited October 14, 2005 by Nozmeister Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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