wayneone Posted October 13, 2005 Report Share Posted October 13, 2005 Looking to shorten my chain a bit, Just need to ask a few questions first. 1)How to do it? as far as i can figure you you take your chain tool remove a pin, then go down the chain remove another pin, then put the two peices together and put a pin back in. 2)How short to go? im currently running 22th up front and a 8sp cassette on the back altho i only use gear 8(highest) and gear 3(trials) will ceirtain(sp?) lengths affect gear shifting ect? 3)What are the overall benifits? To stop the chain flapping about? Quicker response? 4)Any specific pointers or tips? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FLATOUTSTYLE Posted October 13, 2005 Report Share Posted October 13, 2005 (edited) Looking to shorten my chain a bit, Just need to ask a few questions first. 1)How to do it? as far as i can figure you you take your chain tool remove a pin, then go down the chain remove another pin, then put the two peices together and put a pin back in. 2)How short to go? im currently running 22th up front and a 8sp cassette on the back altho i only use gear 8(highest) and gear 3(trials) will ceirtain(sp?) lengths affect gear shifting ect? 3)What are the overall benifits? To stop the chain flapping about? Quicker response? 4)Any specific pointers or tips? I do mine with a chain tool, just grap a few links and pull them together until your mec is 90 or more past vertical, swinging towards the cranks/front of bike. Just dont go too far unless it will become too tight and not spin freely...so thats Pinch 2 links, 1 in each hand to where you want it to end up Get your chain tool and push the pin on one side until its almost out, take out the outer link of the other side, then simply couple the ends up, turn the tool around and push the pin back in. If you find the link is too tight and mangles up when it passes through the mec, just grab the chain at the side with the top facing up, hold near the tight part and simply wiggle it back and forth bending the chain slightly to loosen the link.... bobs ur uncle, fannys your auntie pezza piss Will stop your bike sounding like a shopping trolley. If the chain is nice and tight, think Ryan Leechs bike, proper shopping trolley noises, get rid of it, shorten your chain Will not give the bike a quicker response as you will still have the same amount of links running across the top of your chain no matter how short it is, but really holds it nice and looks neat, dont go too far because if you snap your chain you will not be able to reconnect it for obvious reasons Oh almost forgot, do this when your bike is in "Trials gear" not "Going to the shop gear" as it will be fooked if you take them out in shop mode as it will not shift up to trials gear..... hm......And ensure you push the pin back in equally..... To prevent it mangling on the pin.... Edited October 13, 2005 by FLATOUTSTYLE Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark W Posted October 13, 2005 Report Share Posted October 13, 2005 Not *really* true about the "response" idea? For example with my bike, if I've set the wheel too far forward in the dropouts, the chain is ultra slag and dangles loads. Therefore, when I pedal, I have to take up that slack too? The first part of the power would have to eliminate the slack before it fully engaged the back wheel, if you get me. Either way, you can feel the difference between a loose and a tight chain. To ease a stiff link, you use the two plates on your chain tool nearest where the threaded arm comes out of. Usually does the trick, and that's what they're designed for. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FLATOUTSTYLE Posted October 13, 2005 Report Share Posted October 13, 2005 Not *really* true about the "response" idea? For example with my bike, if I've set the wheel too far forward in the dropouts, the chain is ultra slag and dangles loads. Therefore, when I pedal, I have to take up that slack too? The first part of the power would have to eliminate the slack before it fully engaged the back wheel, if you get me. Either way, you can feel the difference between a loose and a tight chain. To ease a stiff link, you use the two plates on your chain tool nearest where the threaded arm comes out of. Usually does the trick, and that's what they're designed for. well being a stock guy, that dont apply to me my dropouts are fixed.... (N) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.