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160 Mm Or 170 Mm


emery

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Height means shit when it comes to cranks.

If you want that "little" extra power into your gapping, whislt sacreficing the ground clearance by 1cm, get the 170mm.

If you want just the same power (but obviously a tinybit less) and keep the same ground clearance, get the 160mm!

(N)

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Height means shit when it comes to cranks.

If you want that "little" extra power into your gapping, whislt sacreficing the ground clearance by 1cm, get the 170mm.

If you want just the same power (but obviously a tinybit less) and keep the same ground clearance, get the 160mm!

:P

bull sh1t

pbpic635454.jpg

hope this helps :S

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cheers just stuck with the orginal 160mm,

how do you loctite a freewheel so it doesn't come loose .

here you go

ok this works for my acs claw but i don't know about other e.g. shimano

1. remove free wheel/crank from frame

2. remove free wheel case (the top) making sure you hold the free wheel together so no ball bearings fall out

3. place some alcohol (methane not wisky) on a piece of cotton wool and use the to clean the threads

4. make sure there is NOTHING (oil or methane) left on the threads (methane should of evaporated)

5. place a small amout of loctite/nut lock on the threads on the free wheel and case

6. place a small blob of grease on the bearings (you wont be able to open it easily again)

7. tighten up the free wheel case using a screw driver and once tight hit the end of the screw driver with a mallet lightly to pinch the case tight

8. leave for a hour to dry then place back on the bike then ride away with a big grin on your face

things to remember:

which direction the case to tighten it

hold the free wheel together to stop ball bearings falling out

leave to dry for an hour

this will work i did it to mine but be warned it wont last for ever and you may need to do it every 6 months or so !!!

hope it helps (Y)

Edited by joshywa
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bull sh1t

pbpic635454.jpg

hope this helps (Y)

Well spotted, penis. However, if you have a longer crank arm, if you put the same power in through your legs you will go further.

I'll explain simply.

Think of a door. If you pressed the door lightly at the furthest point out from the hinge, it would feel easy to move. If you pressed lightly nearer the hinge, it will feel harder to move.

However, because you're putting in the same power, you're getting more travel out of it if the lever (the door, or in this case a crank arm) is longer.

So a shorter crank arm will "feel" harder, but you'll actually get more power out of a longer crank arm.

I'm running 175mm Tensiles on my mod, and it feels great. Feels a little easier to pedal than it used to, but you go the same distance.

All good.

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the longer the crank the more power

the shorter the crank the less power

?

so i've been told

:P

Yes, in theory, but you really want cranks about 165mm and no really longer on a mod, cause then your cranks will be really close to the ground, more than what they meant to be, making your catch your cranks more on rocks and shit....

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Yes, in theory, but you really want cranks about 165mm and no really longer on a mod, cause then your cranks will be really close to the ground, more than what they meant to be, making your catch your cranks more on rocks and shit....

I've never caught my cranks on anything? I really don't get why you've got this fixation with twatting them off stuff? If you're riding over roots or whatever, don't pedal like a tool, just roll it?

But either way, like I said, I've never noticed there being an issue with ground clearance.

In fact, when buying new cranks, I straight up don't even think/give a shit about ground clearance :P They're only gonna be 10mm nearer, and seeing as, say, on my bike I've got 65mm BB rise, that still gives me like a foot of ground clearance?

Either way, ground clearance doesn't mean shit. Having more power (by having longer cranks) does though.

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