Brisa Posted October 4, 2005 Report Share Posted October 4, 2005 I got my heatsink V adaptors just over a week ago for my Hifi to enable me to run a V Brake. My initial impressions of the adaptors were that there were of good quality and a simple design (boss mounting to plate). I wen't to install them to realise the suppied bolts were too long and also the heads were too large to allow my set up to return properly but this was solved with disc rotar bolts from a hope set up. I told Steve of this just to inform him for future orders and he sent me some bolts that were a little longer than the disc bolts for added security and a lower head also. Top service. Sorted! My set up is Avid Archrival arms (not the stiffest admittedly) And a sd5 lever (shocking play in them!) but will be replacing the lever for some XTR wholsomeness soon! An odyessy slic inner and a cheap shiney (braided look) outer. And the the most importanmt ingrediant... some heatsink V-pads! These have the red compound which supposedly doesn't last long but doesn't seem to be wearing excessively for me. I have the set up on an old koxx 38mm rim (think old echo!) which holds a nice grind. The brake initially was a tad spongy but after letting the cable bed itself and stretch in its as solid as I wish it to be. Stffness could be further improved with a booster which im not running as its on a Hifi! I have ridden it about 5 times now, the first ride I wasn't sure of it and had to change my technique slightly as far as timing with the brake went compared to my magura. Once I got the hang of it I now fully trust this brake! 100%. It makes that reassuring magura-esque noise and when riding you would not tell any difference in power or lock. I like the simplicity of it all. Thats my main reason for the change. being far away from home and a hose splitting has shut down a few rides early (with quite a drive there for nothing) before. But now I can carry spare cable easily and swap it in minutes. Sorry it was a bit long winded and I appologise for any grammar or spelling mistakes. Heres some pictures: This shows the clearence with hope disc bolts. There is much more with the bolts Steve sent me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScotchDave Posted October 4, 2005 Report Share Posted October 4, 2005 Would it be possible to have some heatsink adapters made with horizontal slots instead of vertical ones, might help in a project of mine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Janson Posted October 4, 2005 Report Share Posted October 4, 2005 pretty nice adapters eh? (N)' I don't understand why Steve didn't go with countersunk bolts.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Burton Posted October 4, 2005 Report Share Posted October 4, 2005 pretty nice adapters eh? (N)' I don't understand why Steve didn't go with countersunk bolts.. Isn't it more adjustable this way? Plus if you do snap a bolt then itll be forever stuck, if contersunk (Y) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mat hudson Posted October 4, 2005 Report Share Posted October 4, 2005 how long have you had the reds?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CurtisRider Posted October 4, 2005 Report Share Posted October 4, 2005 my reds were pants on a grind (N) plaz crvs all the way for me however the reds were pretty decent on a smooth rim, but still crvs kicked their ass (Y) anyways, im glad to see yet another rider running a v, it totally makes sense, and these adaptors certainly open up options (Y) wel done steve (and janson B) ) brisa: i highly recomend you bin/sell the archrival and get something along the lines of an sd7 or an avid ultimate-basically anything without linkages and parrallel push-itll make one heck of a difference to the power of your brake! even though they are expensive, ultimates are really worth every penny (Y) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brisa Posted October 5, 2005 Author Report Share Posted October 5, 2005 (edited) my reds were pants on a grind :sleeping: plaz crvs all the way for me however the reds were pretty decent on a smooth rim, but still crvs kicked their ass :P anyways, im glad to see yet another rider running a v, it totally makes sense, and these adaptors certainly open up options :( wel done steve (and janson :P ) brisa: i highly recomend you bin/sell the archrival and get something along the lines of an sd7 or an avid ultimate-basically anything without linkages and parrallel push-itll make one heck of a difference to the power of your brake! even though they are expensive, ultimates are really worth every penny :) This is pretty solid Paul. I will be investing in some new arms and a lever. The red pads are really good, will get a small clip of me riding them tomorrow to show the shear amazingness but when they wear down I have a set of Koxx green pads to swap over, they piss on all pads! Including plazzies. Div, I hads to run a smaller rim than usual to get the Vee on so slots the other way would be good for adjustment but most likely not good for trying to keep it in the one place. Edit: Oh and I have had the reds about a month now but have been on my BMX since I got this set up sorted. Edited October 5, 2005 by Brisa Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Felix Posted October 5, 2005 Report Share Posted October 5, 2005 It would be better if the brake mount was closer to the rim. Then you could mount the pads closer to the pivot of the brake arm and thus get much more leverage, which results in better performance. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Heatsink Posted October 5, 2005 Report Share Posted October 5, 2005 This is what I've been trying to improve from the starting point of Janson's design - improving the leverage where possible. The brake boss has been moved up as high as it can and the form modified to allow even closer placement to the lower mount bolt. There is alot of variation of 4 mount position across frames I've found, and for some this same brake arm would have the pad in the half of the slot closer to the pivot. Also the slots positions vary too across different arms. Mounting directly onto the lower mounting hole may mean that the brake pad can't be fitted because it needs to be even closer to the pivot than the slot allows. An ideal position to suit the range of frames may be half on the lower mount and half below, which cause difficulties for assembly. I think the current position as used by the Bonz adapters too, is the best to cater for all set-ups. Steve It would be better if the brake mount was closer to the rim. Then you could mount the pads closer to the pivot of the brake arm and thus get much more leverage, which results in better performance. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
quick_spider Posted October 5, 2005 Report Share Posted October 5, 2005 It would be better if the brake mount was closer to the rim. Then you could mount the pads closer to the pivot of the brake arm and thus get much more leverage, which results in better performance. I have that 'feature' on my 24" forks - the mounts are really high making the pads sit lower on the v brake arm. Whilst I'm sure it's a good idea in principle, there are consequences. I hate the feel (or lack of) that it gives - I'm running Ultimates with Heatsink's white pads. I guess on the back you don't need as much feel on the brake, but on the front it's a :sleeping: from me. You should be able to get the same effect using the speed dial on an avid brake lever since it's all about moments and cable pull. Jon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tomm Posted October 5, 2005 Report Share Posted October 5, 2005 You should be able to get the same effect using the speed dial on an avid brake lever since it's all about moments and cable pull.Exactly, a good rear brake is not just about the leverage. If it was, we'd all be running levers that squidged into the bar before the brake locked. Unless you are running the speed dial all the way in towards the bar (And no-one does that) then there is no need to worry about the distance between the pivot and the pad. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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