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Brake Pad Reach


Mr Motivator

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I'll explain the best I can..

Ok first off, I have a 38mm ronnie in a 100mm frame with 4 bolt mounts. I'm using red bloxx with plenty of material left and I fixed my TPA bolt about a year ago. What I'm trying to get at, is that nothing is broken, it all works fine.

Anyway, on the left hand side of the frame (as you look at it from behind) I have the brake cylinder set half way in the mounts and this side is fine. Also this is the side at where the main hose comes in from the lever.

On the right hand side (see THIS pic), the brake cylinder is set in as far as it can possibly go ( A ) and there is still a major gap between the pad and rim ( B ).. "Oh so wind the TPA in" well yeah it's wound all the way in (but usually when the TPA is wound all the way in the pads sit further away from the back of the cylinder.. on mine they don't, they are still firm up against the back) "Oh your wheel must be out of dish" nope, the wheel is perfect.

So my only conclusion is that the brake needs a re-bleed as there has been a loss in fluid since that last bleed. If I re-bleed this will be the 3rd bleed it has had in 2 years.. Good?

Well the thing is, I don't have a bleed kit and currently my brake is bled with magura fluid so what I propose to do is bleed it with water by removing the complete brake from the bike and submerging it in a bucket of water (I don't have anti-freeze but it doesn't get that cold down here anyway) and removing the bolts and pumping the lever until all the gunk is out then fill up the bucket again with fresh water and then squeezing the lever to pump water back in. My friend has done this before but I remember him saying something about you have to keep a finger over a hole when pumping the lever? Which one?

Any help on this will be most appreciated :)

Sam

(Yeah I missed some full stops up there ^^)

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When I used the bucket of water bleed I put my finger over the hole in the lever when I was pumping the lever and on the lever return I took it off to allow water in. Do up all the bolts under water and you will have an amazing bleed.

Edited by Brisa
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Are your brake mounts welded in the wrong place? my t-rexc is the same, (but not with the mondo gap on one side)

Do you mean, One piston is set up perfect, not to far in, to far out, set up 100% perfect, and the other side has to be in all the way?

If so i have the same problem(well not a problem but just annoying). You coloud over-fill the system? might work ?

Cheers

Tom

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i had the same sort of thing going on but just rebled the brake and it works fine again, i had to move the cyclinders out a bit too after the bleed and now it all feels solid etc. I dont usually rebleed my whole brake i just squeeze the lever and then put some more water in as i slowly let go of it ( like a quick bleed where you only undo the bolt at the lever and leave the other at the cylinders done up). I usually do that once a month or something which is no big deal at all..no need for de-icer/anti freeze in my brakes even when riding natural in the snow up at loughborough.

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Undo the TPA fully, then pull the lever slowly, and when pulling, look at the pads, if they dont move intill you have pulled the lever quite far in, then you have air in the system.

Just turn TPA right down, give a good water bleed, install back on bike, then turn TPA up if needed :)

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on the right hand side of the frame most peoples brakes are like this because on the right hand side the spacing is differant because it has to accomodate the cassete etc. i noticed this today when fittin my new wheel, a ronnie rim, and then having to set my brake up.

Edited by scott-mad
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