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You cannot Dan Ko is in China or japan at the moment , just buy a normal one it means you can take it apart give it a clean !!

But if you really want a welded one buy a normal one and go to your local engerneers carnt be that expensive to get it welded ?

Sam

EDIT: Go eno they rule (Y)

Edited by samthebiker
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Use loctite (Y) you can service the freewheel, it costs less, and on the welded ones they angle grind the removal tabs off. It takes about 2 minutes to do aswell, just take the lockring off, whack some loctite on it and screw it back on :) .

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just out of curiosity, why are you trying to buy a welded acs? fair enough if you already owned it and wanted it welding it up, but surely its a lot easier and safer to buy a fixed cog?

EDIT: infact are you meaning you want just the lockring welded so that it doesn't work loose?

if so, woops i totally misunderstood, and yeh, your better of just going straight for the ENO, cos you're going to end up there eventually anyway.

Edited by RicH_87
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I already have a ACS, but it isnt welded, it ALLWAYS comes loose!!!

I would rather buy a one than welding it myself, and i havnt got enough for a eno, other wise i'd buy one (Y) :)

Oh and mine keeps skipping aswell :P

And iv tryed loctiting it, but it keeps coming loose the very next ride :P :P

Use loctite  :P you can service the freewheel, it costs less, and on the welded ones they angle grind the removal tabs off. It takes about 2 minutes to do aswell, just take the lockring off, whack some loctite on it and screw it back on  :D .

Hmmm i dont think they would grind the removal tabs off, cause they you wouldnt be able to take it off :D

Edited by terror-error
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I would rather buy a one than welding it myself, and i havnt got enough for a eno, other wise i'd buy one (Y)  :)

By the time you've bought several ACS' you could of got an ENO anyway.

Trust me, with trials, you either by the best straight off, or you buy the crap stuff until you realise it's crap, then buy the best stuff anyway.

I know stuff is expensive, but your gonna lose money in the long run.

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By the time you've bought several ACS' you could of got an ENO anyway.

Trust me, with trials, you either by the best straight off, or you buy the crap stuff until you realise it's crap, then buy the best stuff anyway.

I know stuff is expensive, but your gonna lose money in the long run.

Cant you read sonny, I HAVNT GOT ENOUGH!!!

If i did have enough, this post wouldnt be here, and im not waiting ages to get enough money as i dont have a job (i hate my age!!!)

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And iv tryed loctiting it, but it keeps coming loose the very next ride  :P  (Y)

Hmmm i dont think they would grind the removal tabs off, cause they you wouldnt be able to take it off  :)

Yes they do...my came on my bike from select bikes welded and with the tabs grinded off

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Cant you read sonny, I HAVNT GOT ENOUGH!!!

If i did have enough, this post wouldnt be here, and im not waiting ages to get enough money as i dont have a job (i hate my age!!!)

chill out mate, just giving you some advise

and don't call people sonny when your 14, it makes you look stupid.

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And iv tryed loctiting it, but it keeps coming loose the very next ride  :P  (Y)

Hmmm i dont think they would grind the removal tabs off, cause they you wouldnt be able to take it off  :)

They do, because i bought one a while ago :D. You have to take it apart and mess around all day to get it off.

Loctite it, itll never come loose, and it takes 5 minutes literally. I've done it on about 5 claws :D

Just read youd loctited it before but it didnt work.......sooo..........buy a brand new standard acs claw from tarty bikes. Take the lockring off carefully making sure you dont make any ball bearings fall out etc etc. take off the little washers inside. Clean the thread on the lockring, and the thread on the freewheel with petrol or similar, making sure that you dont get any on the ball bearings. Wipe with a cloth and leave to dry. If you're using petrol itll evaporate so its easy. Put a moderate amount of loctite on the LOCKRING ONLY. If you put it on the freewheel aswell you risk getting it on the bearings. Screw it on, leave for around an hour, put it on the crank, go ride. It won't come loose. If it does, youve not done the above properly, because mine never failed me :P .

Sorted!

Edited by Nozmeister
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Cheers noori (Y)

just wondering, i might be using the wrong loctite?

I use this crappy "pritt stick" loctitie stuff.

Ill get a pic now.....

Hmmm cant seam to find it, must be in the shed.

But could you send a pic of the stuff u use plllleeeeeaaaassseeee?

Would be much appriceiated (SP?)

Edited by terror-error
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k, if you insist on locktighting a crappy acs i might as-well give you another of Rich's top ten handy freewheel hints...

After you have put the locktight on, leave the freewheel LOCKRING SIDE DOWN, that way any excess locktight cannot run down into the pawls and stop them from springing back.

I say this as many moons ago, whilst still in my nieve trials period, i put some locktight on my freewheel and it ended up dribbling into the pawls/springs meaning major skippage and even more major knee bruising, shortly followed by chainring tooth imbedded in my finger.

So yeh, just make sure you do whatever you can to keep the locktight away from your freewheel innards until your 100% sure it's dry. (Y)

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Just go to any DIY shop and ask for loctite threadlock. Other brands work fine aswell but i always prefer to go with loctite.

B&Q don't stock it. Just in case anyone thinks of trying there. Also car shops would probably have something similar - Halfords, Motormania - that sort of place.

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B&Q don't stock it.  Just in case anyone thinks of trying there.  Also car shops would probably have something similar - Halfords, Motormania - that sort of place.

I went to hellfrauds and i bought some of that bonding glue, iv just put some in my bottom bracket shell (you all know that its stripps and BB doesnt tighten)... it has worked better than normally tightening it!!! lol :D :D

Its gone in and its stuck in!!! (i HOPEFULLY wont have to take it out) :P"

Anyways, i couldnt be bothered with that freewheel loctiting, so im gonna drag my dads mig out in a few mins and weld it.

Will work hopefull lol. :P :P

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Er, if it's skipping, why weld it? Just strip it, clean it, super light lube in it (or run it dry), make sure the threads are clean, get some REAL locktite glue (any superglue or threadlock will do it, pretty much), then tighten the lockring.

That way, you'll have a freewheel that'll work til it shits it's load again, and a lockring that'll stay tightened up.

Once glued, leave to dry, don't just ride...

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Iv welded it now mark, its working great, i took the freewheel TOTALLY apart, so it was bare, then i cleaned it all with white spirit, then put it all back together again with some grease, it isnt exactly thin grease though :P :D

its molly grease or somthing :D

should work fine :P :P

Took me about 2 hours to put freewheel back together though lol

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keep an eye on it for a while yet, because grease, no matter how thin, tends to work thicker the more its moved around. It might gradually work too thick around the pawls causing them to stay flat rather than spring back = massive skippage and eventually you'll be able to spin it both ways with no engagement at all.

Basically just take it wasy for a little while until your sure it's stilll working correctly.

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The thicker the grease the slower the pawls will return, basically.  That's why it's best to have it as a thinner grease.

Is it quite quiet now?

Yeah its nearly sighlent.

Iv always used this amount of grease (same grease) in my other freewheels, and they seamed to work ok :D

Hopfully, it wont fook up on a 8 foot gap :P :P :P

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