Endohopper Posted July 23, 2005 Report Share Posted July 23, 2005 (edited) I'm hoping someone can advise me about modding / bodging a rear mech ( a Shimano Ultegra. ) What I want to achieve is the removal of the cable clamp , adjuster and the cable itself , so as to lock the mech laterally , preventing side to side movement . Basically this , as shown in diagram A : I've seen plenty of topics concering removal of the tension spring to prevent up and down "slapping", but I want to achieve lateral locking , given that I run S.S . On the picture ( someone's GU ) there seems to be a screw at the back , is that keeping the cage in place ? Is the spring still present ? Any ideas ? (N) Edited July 23, 2005 by Endohopper Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
matheprat Posted July 23, 2005 Report Share Posted July 23, 2005 I'm hoping someone can advise me about modding / bodging a rear mech ( a Shimano Ultegra. ) What I want to achieve is the removal of the cable clamp , adjuster and the cable itself , so as to lock the mech laterally , preventing side to side movement . Basically this , as shown in diagram A : I've seen plenty of topics concering removal of the tension spring to prevent up and down "slapping", but I want to achieve lateral locking , given that I run S.S . On the picture ( someone's GU ) there seems to be a screw at the back , is that keeping the cage in place ? Is the spring still present ? Any ideas ? (N) ← You could try just winding in the limit screws, so it can't move side to side. The bottom jockey wheel would still move up and down though i guess. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy Vox Posted July 23, 2005 Report Share Posted July 23, 2005 (edited) The way i did mine was: 1) Cut the end off of a gear or brake cable (the end with the little ball on) plus about 2 inches of cable. 2) Thread the cable end into the mech as though it had come from the shifter (i.e. through the hole at the back towards the front of the bike.) The ball on the end of the piece of cable should stop it going all the way through the hole. 3) Get the mech in the right place and tightened up the cable under the screw as you would if you had a shifter and full length cable. This way, its just like having a cable on but without the shifter etc. This has worked very well for me and once setup i haven't needed to touch it. Hope this helps. (N) EDIT: bugger, just read your post more thoroughly and thats no help. But if no one else can help then it might be an option. Edited July 23, 2005 by killbobuk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
guineasmithpig Posted July 23, 2005 Report Share Posted July 23, 2005 the spring tension in ur mech lifts it upwards and outwards. having removed the tension spring u can lock the mech in position to stop it 'swinging' but not laterally. now push ur mech inboard, so the jockey wheels line up with the sprocket ur using, then swing the mech until it touches the chainstay, and then lock it out. now the mech can not move upwards and outwards, leaving it positioned over ur sprocket for good. this is how the mech in the pic has been positioned, and how i've been running mine for years. good luck smiff Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dr. Nick Riviera Posted July 23, 2005 Report Share Posted July 23, 2005 cut out all the springs , then find two small grub screws labelled l+r or high + low take these out , go to a diy shop bolt place or similar and get some long ones put these in and screw them in until they are both touching the metal piece in the way of them (you'll see what you do it ) , thus the mech is unable to move side to side then tweak till youve got good chainline , ziptie to chainstay and your off Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr Motivator Posted July 23, 2005 Report Share Posted July 23, 2005 cut out all the springs , then find two small grub screws labelled l+r or high + low take these out , go to a diy shop bolt place or similar and get some long ones put these in and screw them in until they are both touching the metal piece in the way of them (you'll see what you do it ) , thus the mech is unable to move side to side then tweak till youve got good chainline , ziptie to chainstay and your off ← Dont need to ziptie id you take the other spring out. You can tighten it to the frame. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
James_Porter Posted July 23, 2005 Report Share Posted July 23, 2005 how complicated are you lot. there are two limit screws, screw the top one in as far as it will go. and its sorted. if you have your cog right near the "back" (nearer the spokes) on the free hub body then it might not work. but i have mine positioned in like the centre pretty much and its fine. just give it a mess about, but my way should work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Endohopper Posted July 23, 2005 Author Report Share Posted July 23, 2005 Thanks for the replies , gentlemen . I'm currently running my mech as Killbobuk suggested , and have tried using simply my limiting screws at the back to position the jockey wheels over the cog , but it seems I'll need longer screws as Daanhilla suggested . I'm guessing that should do the trick perfectly , as I'm running my cog quite far inboard on my freehub body ( nearer spokes .) Oooh ! I get to save , like , 1 gram off my bike . I was expecting replies along the lines of "Dude , just get a chain tensioner " etc , but I wanna continue to use my trusty ( if heavy ) mech . Thanks , guys . (N) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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