Jump to content

Getting Off A Freewheel?


onza t-bird

Recommended Posts

Hi,

I have recently bought an ACS 16T freewheel to go with my fixed 24t on the front, all went smoothly until it came to taking the old freewheel off. I have a park tool freewheel remover and all the necessary tools, but the damn thing won't budge! Ive tried, my stepdad's tried, my mum's tried and we've tried at once. Is there any special tips, ideas on how I can get it off easier, i might take it to a shop tomorrow but I'd rather not pay any money!

Thanks Joe (Y)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

heya mate,

every one has this problem if they have a freewheel....

......basically just lube it up and use lots of muscle, you cant beat elbow grease!! it will be very tight, have you tried putting the freewheel in a engineers vice and pushing on the crank or wheel or even hitting it??

hope i can help,

regards,

Toby

Link to comment
Share on other sites

is the tool just slipping off the freewheel?

If not, thats good. now, get a extension bar (a big long ratchetthingy[but doent have the ratchet in it]) and then whack the right size on the end of it for the freewheel. whack the wheel in a vice, and then turn it aint-clockwise.

I know i havnt put much detail in, but im tired!! been at work since 8:30am and then came home and was with the bird (Y) :D

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If your getting the freewheel of the rear wheel, pump it full of air, so it's rock hard. Then use the axle of the wheel and the bolt, and find some way of bolting the freewheel tool to the freewheel, as the problem you normaly find is that the tool normaly slips off the freeweheel.

Hope it helps.

(Y)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Bolt freewheel remover to crank arm/freewheel.

Clamp either the crank arm (the Mark prefered choice <-) or the tool in the vice.

Use an extension bar (31.8mm seat-post if you're using most adjustables seems to do the job, or the hella long bar at our lbs) or just a long big ol' tube to slip round the crank arm to twist it off.

Seriously, it will work, just keep trying. Soak it in GT-85 if you want, but yeah - just put a loada effort in. Rememeber: the longer the extension bar the easier the job (Y)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Bolt freewheel remover to crank arm/freewheel.

Clamp either the crank arm (the Mark prefered choice <-) or the tool in the vice.

Use an extension bar (31.8mm seat-post if you're using most adjustables seems to do the job, or the hella long bar at our lbs) or just a long big ol' tube to slip round the crank arm to twist it off.

Seriously, it will work, just keep trying.  Soak it in GT-85 if you want, but yeah - just put a loada effort in.  Rememeber:  the longer the extension bar the easier the job :huh:

Please the the thread... it says hes getting it off his wheel (Y)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

heya mate,

every one has this problem if they have a freewheel....

......basically just lube it up and use lots of muscle, you cant beat elbow grease!! it will be very tight, have you tried putting the freewheel in a engineers vice and pushing on the crank or wheel or even hitting it??

hope i can help,

regards,

Toby

Hehe, we sent a guy at work down to the shops for a tub of elbow grease the other day because he couldn't free up some stuff, stupid fool didn't realise 'til he got down there that we were taking the piss! :huh: (Y)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Well as you dont say if you want the freewheel or not

Cut through the outer teeth with an angle grinder (you may want to use these bits as snazzy jewellery)

Scoop out all the bearings, pawls, and springs

Clamp the centre bit in a vice. Tight, but not too tight that you'll destroy the thread

Turn the wheel like a bus driver

When it comes loose, spin it, its wheely good fun! hehe

ai voila, one wheel and one freewheel body separated

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If you don't need to keep the freewheel angle grind it off !

Other wise get a blowtorch and heat up the frewheel for a little while (not to hot though) then it should come off easyer.

The reason for this is the freewheel material expands faster (at a lower temp) than the crank, hub sorry i carnt rember the materials :huh: .

Also rember to blot the tool to the crank/hub.

And yes make sure your twising the right way as there backwards thered me thinks (clock wise to undo this means)

Also put the freewheel tool in a vice and and use the wheel/crank arm as leverage!

Worked for me (Y)

Sam

Any one correct me if i'm wrong anywhere .

Edited by samthebiker
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Well as you dont say if you want the freewheel or not

Cut through the outer teeth with an angle grinder (you may want to use these bits as snazzy jewellery)

Scoop out all the bearings, pawls, and springs

Clamp the centre bit in a vice. Tight, but not too tight that you'll destroy the thread

Turn the wheel like a bus driver

When it comes loose, spin it, its wheely good fun! hehe

ai voila, one wheel and one freewheel body separated

dont go doing that the force of the vice is just holding it on tigther to the threads and this may damage the threads

1 get wheel put tool on then a nut to hold it

2 get spanner that fits

3 long pipe

4 undo anti clock wise (Y)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
×
×
  • Create New...