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how about a chain whip and some uber strong hands, might work im sure thats how u would take it off. take it to LBS will be much easier

Trying to take a 12t cog of with any chain whipe will just destory the chain whip. They arn't strong enough, they're only designed to hold casettes still.

Well, for a start you can just leave the 12t cog on if you want to run a 14t freewheel.

Why not use those cranks with the 22t but get a 24t cog, and get a 16t ACS for the rear. Giving you a 1.5 gear ratio. :-

Edited by JT!
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Hey guys, I have finally called it quits on front freewheel, as I have not got enough clearance for anything in the drivetrain  (N)

I have a 127.5mm Shimano UN53 BB, and that rubs against the notches on my freewheel, plus I can't take a bashring!!!

Echo bashring? Coust UCI Bashring? Try-All bashring? Should be able to fit them + the freewheel.

What cranks are you using? If they're square taper (reading the thread, they are :">), then it probably means you've tightened the cranks on too far, and have basically stretched the tapers out so the cranks sit further in on the spindle. This'll have the effect of meaning you can't get a freewheel on easily - the same problem I had with my old Musclemans. If you just had a new right-side crank arm even you could just use that, only do it to 35ft/lbs of torque, and that should do it fine with a bashring + freewheel (although you could try grinding the remover tabs off your's).

Now, I am not entirely sure, but has anyone ever had experiences with flipflop freewheels?

Yeah, my ACS Fat keeps eating it's internal spacers. I don't really know how well they'd last for rear freewheel, to be honest. The internals are pretty tiny, so I don't know how well they're take the load...

Now, I am totally unsure what to do, either get rid of my 12tooth cog SOMEHOW  :P  :- but, I am not sure how I am supposed to do it.

I believe there's either a thread in the FAQ, or in the Trials Chat section 'cos it comes up quite frequently :deej:

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